VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 1939 chevrolet master deluxe VIN

Somebody please help me! I bought a 1939 master deluxe that was left in an old storage shed and put up for auction. I am trying to find the vin. I have the body by fisher plate and numbers but I do not have the original motor. I hope i'm not screwed. Is there any way I can figure this out? I have no idea what any of the body or style numbers mean. Please help! I really want to get this thing titled for my wife and I. I'm only 22 and it would be wonderful to restore this beauty

There should be rwo information plates on the right side of the cowl. One is the Fisher Body information tag. It lists the body sequence production number (the letter before the number indiacteds at which plant the Fisher Body was made),The body style number, the paint number and trim number which refers to the interior upholstery. Non of these number are valid for registration
The other tag has the serial number stamped into it. The number will begin with one or two numbers that indiacted the assembly plant, the letters JA which would indicate that its a 1939 Master DeLuxe, and several more numbers which are the actual serial number. Prior to 1955 most states used the engine number for registration. The 1939 engine numbers ranged from 1915447 through 2697267. This number would have been on the title. Sorry to say that there is no way to find that number if the original engine is missing. I would check with your MVD and see what they require.

There should have been a 3 x 5 inch plate screwed to the engine side of the cowl on the passenger side with the car number stamped in the bottom line. A lot of States registered the vehicle by the stamped engine number. 1939 body job numbers for the Deluxe models are as follows; 391101 Coach
391017 Coupe 5 window
391027 Coupe w/Aux. Seats
391019 Sedan Sport
391009 Sedan Standard
391011 Sedan Town

What paperwork, if any, did you receive when you purchased the vehicle?

That is where we must start.

More information when the question is answered.

Wow! thank you for responding. Here's what I got
Style: 39-1019
Body: M 1076
Trim: 80
Paint: 252

I got the car from a guy who bought it at a storage shed. The shed renter stopped paying and contact attempts were made with no response therefore the shed was foreclosed on and no paperwork has been found. I talked to broadway title and they claim they can title the car but a vin would be helpful.

Well men I do not have the original motor. That was the only thing missing. I have the original 3 speed tranny but i'm sure that doesn't help. I see where the vin plate should be but it's so rusted it has started to fall apart and what's left isn't in the least readable

Hi,

Looks like your next step is your local DMV. In the meantime you should get a "bill of sale" from the person you purchased it from.

I assume you don't have any engine?

I have a 350 I am building to put in it but it's far from the original. I can easily get a bill of sale from the seller but the car was never in his name either. He purchased it from the storage unit and I purchased it from him because he is working on a 50 chevy sedan and lost time to start on this project. I talked to broadway title like I said and they are out of alabama. They said with or without a vin they can get me a title but it's much easier of course with the vin. I don't know how they do it and I don't care but I want a title. This might sound dumb but is there a way to find out which cars aren't titled and re-title them? install a new vin and be done with it? This is all new to me so I have no idea. I'm sure there are plenty out there that are GONE and could never come back. I really appreciate your help and can't thank you enough

In Wisconsin, You can get a new title generated with out the old one. You will need a bill of sale. There is a big form, and the car must be inspected by a police officer, even a Roscoe P. Coltrane. But their duty is to find the vin in 2+ Locations. So maybe they have a special procedure for a case such as this. I am sure you are not the first person in history to have no title on a vintage car. PS If you need help getting rid of that 350 you had in mind, just send it here and I will dispose of it properly for you:)

The best thing you can do is converse with your state's titling agency to determine what their method is for resolving your issue. I personally would stay as far away from Broadway Title as I can. I've read they are in trouble in some states for fraudulent titles.

As for putting a 350 in your car, you probably won't get a lot of help here. This forum is mainly for folks doing original restorations. If you're interested I have a serviceable 216 out of a '40 that you can have for free to get it out of the way. If you're determined to put modern running gear in it you might find like minds in the Stovebolt forums. www.stovebolt.com

I think I may have worked something out. Apparently in our state you can purchase a "dead title" one to a vehicle with a valid title if there is absolutely no way that car could ever be restored. There are companies that purchase those titles from the dmv and re-sell them with 2 replacement vin plates for around 100 bucks. I believe this may be my only choice. As per that motor I may consider. Do you have the block number by chance? Why are you getting rid of it? Why don't u restore that car? Thanks again for all your help so far! look forward to your response

Well guys... I am extremely pleased at the moment. I got a clear title and VIN plates!! I called an outfit who sells titles and VIN plates for restoration purposes. Years ago titles were not marked salvage when the vehicle was totaled, junked, dismantled, etc. People purchased them for restoration purposes. This is a company who has just about any available clear title you can ask for. You get a clear title, a bill of sale, the original VIN plates, a Notorized document stating the title is clear from that states D.M.V, and a history report to prove the vehicle and or title was not stolen. This could help many people and I know it already has. Here's the numbers in-case you need assistance.... Street rodding: 410-257-6522 and Charles Walcutt: 410-488-5500. They are both out of the state of Maryland. I hope this helps many more people. The fee for all is $150.00 U.S.D

Once again I thank all you gentlemen for your assistance. You all seem like great people and I hope your projects continue to go good for you. And by the way..... I admire you guys that re-do old vintage and antique cars to their original condition. And I would do the same but money is an option for me and a rat/street rod is much more affordable for me at this time. So please don't think i'm trying to ruin the car by making it a rod please. I didn't mean to mention a 350 to offend anybody

I'm not restoring a 40. I got the engine as an "extra" from the PO of my 38 coupe. If/when the engine in my coupe needs rebuilt I plan to keep & rebuild the original so I don't need the engine. Right now it's just taking up space in the shed that I could use for other stuff. BTW I also have the rear axle & torque tube assy for the same car if anyone needs that. It's also free to a good home. If I can't find a good home for them they're going to the crusher.

sounds good. Let me speak with my wife and see what she thinks. I will have to see what shipping might cost on that. Have a rough idea on weight?

These engines are heavy. Somewhere over 700lbs with the head depending on what else is attached like starter, etc.

They are heavy. I call the head off of my 38 the "boat anchor". I had to call my son to help me lift it off. It would probably be as cheap to fly out, rent a car & u-haul trailer & trailer it home. It'd be a good excuse for a vacation. As for an exact weight I don't know it. Someone here might have a document that says.

ok. let me do some research and i'll see what I can come up with. Thanks so much for the help

I researched before shipping one. The bare engine with head was about 650lbs.

Each accessory item like starter, generator, manifolds add about 50lbs each to be safe.

Going from memory the flywheel was close to 50 lbs, Bellhousing 25lbs and transmission about 35lbs.