VCCA Home Forums GENERAL DISCUSSION General Discussions 48 Fleetmaster Questions

My daughter and son-in-law inherited a 48 Fleetmaster which has been sitting in a garage sine 1997. It raises lots of questions, but the goal is to sell it for a fair price.

- Tires all flat. Assume all 4 need replacing. Sources for bias-ply tires, 6.00x16, or maybe 6.70x15 (I need to check)
- No battery. I think it is a 6V system?
- ignition key is missing. can I get one with the VIN? Is there a VIN? Where is it? If no VIN, or can’t get key …remove/disassemble the ignition switch from behind the dash? Have key fitted or replace? I’ve seen many ignition switches, none look as old as the one in there.
- Trunk doesn’t open. Get in by removing rear seat?
- Style no. is 48-1011, it is as 2 door, but there’s a couple types a coupe, and a sedan?
- There is a body number - is that what is the ID (pre-VIN)?



The paint seems original and though it has some chips, it’s otherwise very nice. The body has no rust, or very little including up under the wheel wells. No obvious bodywork. The interior is also original, no rips, but headliner is stained. Top of dash is sort of corroded looking, but gauges all look good (can’t tell without a battery / starting engine). Radiator still has antifreeze in it. No oil leaks on the floor. 6 cyl engine, one barrel carb.block has GM48 stamp. Looks like a car that should be kept original.


Any help, suggestions, pointers would be much appreciated.

Welcome! I'll move this to the General Discussion forum for you to get a wider audience. I may be able to offer a little help. Others will chime in too.

Tires. There are several vendors of specialty tires. Just Google the tire size you need.

If it's stock it's a 6 volt negative ground system.

The key could be an issue. An old time lock smith may be able to help.

Most states used the engine number on the title is the VIN through 1955, some did not. What is the number on the title?

You might be able to access the trunk latch after removing the back seat. I believe the trunk uses the glove box key. If there's a number on the glove box lock cylinder a lock smith should be able to cut you a key.

DO NOT start it by pouring gas in the tank without cleaning the entire fuel system first. If there's old gas in the tank it can stick your intake valves shut. Been there and done that. Others will be along to provide more assistance. Good luck and I like the idea of keeping it stock.

48-1011 would be a 6 passenger Town Sedan.

In 1948 Chevrolet went to a one key fits all locks. You may be able to remove the glove box lock and find the key code. Next would be to remove a door lock, not too easy but doable. You need the key to remove the ignition switch.

No VIN in '48. Most states used the number stamped on the engine next to the distributor to register the car.

The '48 block was the first to have a circle with 48 in it down by the distributer and fuel pump, so it may have the original motor.

Pump up the tires to find out if they will hold air.

If any of what I have said is wrong someone will be along to correct me shortly.

And welcome to chat.

Looks like Tiny posted while I was typing. Sorry for the repeat of some items.

Russ: Couldn't the 48s ignition be turned to the on position without a key depending on how the switch was left the last time used. Worth a try to see if that is the case. Will need a key for door, glove box and trunk even if he is lucky enough to operate the ignition switch without one.

Dick

Good reply, unless it was left in the lock position which is the tab to the right. Key and tab vertical is the on position.

Was that the only year the ignition switch was used in that manner and why? I suspect so you can keep the glove box & trunk locked while letting someone be able to start the car without a physical key. I doubt during that time period valet parking was a big thing but leaving your car someplace for service would be a reason.
Comments anyone?

Dick

Add a few pictures might help to determine what needs to e done.

If getting it ready for sale my thoughts are as follows:

My caution is that getting it running properly might cost more than the difference to what you would get to sell it as is. Big selling point is that the parts are all there and you have the registration / title in your name.

If you do not start it right you could do damage. If the gas is old and gest sucked into the pump and carb it can gum things up. If you can turn the engine over by hand then with some work it should go.

For the tires I would see if they hold air long enough to roll it from point A to B. If they do not replace the tubes and not the tires. If someone plans to restore the car they will get the type they want. The next guy may want black walls or white walls for the tires.

Unfortunately fixing these cars is a labor of love and financial loss. What is gained is the enjoyment, sense of accomplishment and time with self, family and or friends while working on these old cars. In my opinion the time spent and memories of are worth far more than the money spent.

Hi Dick, The three position switch was used into the early '50's if I remember correctly. As you guessed it was so someone could move/use the car without access to the glove compartment or trunk, since one key fits all locks.

The '48-'49 switch has a tab under the key slot. If the tab and key slot is straight up and down then it is in the start/run position. If the top of the slot is to the driver and the tab is to the passenger that is the off/lock position. If the top of the slot is to the passenger and the tab it to the driver side that is the off/unlock position. In the off/unlock position all you have to do to start the motor is turn the switch vertical, without a key and press the starter pedal.

If the glove box lock is the same as my '51, it is very easy to take it off, open it up, and the key code is on the cylinder. Any locksmith can cut a new key from that code. If you need help with this, I can walk you through it if you call me at 248-860-1157.
Jeff

Chevy offered a "no key to start" feature for many years.

In my '37 the key operated the way that Keith describes. Vertical was on. Left was locked when you removed the key. In the right position it was off but unlocked. You could remove the key. You could use anything flat and narrow like a screwdriver to rotate the lock to the vertical position to turn the ignition on.

In 1953 Chevy eliminated the push-to start button and integrated the start position into the ignition switch. That switch had both an off and lock position. In the off position you could remove the key. You could then rotate the lock knob without a key to start the engine.

OK, the key slot has a tab on the bottom side only. It is “pointed” towards the passenger (about 4:30 or so on a clock face). I take this to be locked.

The trunk handle turns but does nothing in the way of moving a latch.

Love the idea of tubes to move the car! So I can jack it up, take the rim(s) off, take them to Town Fair or wherever, have tube(s) added. Good plan.

We do not have a title, or registration, though you never know what will turn up in the deceased house. Otherwise, it has to go through probate as I understand it, but will eventually be sellable.

Now I understand there is no VIN, but will look on the block for an engine number. The 48 in a circle stamp is on the block; it’s a single carb straight six.

If I can turn it over that would demonstrate it isn’t seized, and also allow for a compression check so I’d like to get it that far.

So still need a battery. 6V. What is a handy source for parts specs for this car to find one?

What is the procedure to drain gasoline and clean fuel system - not sure I want to go that far if I don’t have to, but helpful to know…

Next time I get in front of the car I will pursue the glove box lock removal. This sounds the best approach.

While I love cars, the goal here is not to sell this one.

Given that you do not know much of the maintenance history on the car, go through all the systems in an organized manner.

Brakes are the most important. Then steering.

Be very critical when you inspect the wiring. If the insulation is cracked and missing, there can be real problems including fire.

I agree that you need to spend time making sure that you can get clean fuel to the engine.

Check out these suggestions for getting the engine ready to run.

Starting a Long-Idled Chevy

Hi Cardinal2B

Yes 1948 Chevrolets DID have a VIN/serial number.

I'm not interested in getting into a discussion over the semantics of what is or isn't a "VIN" as opposed to a serial number.
Suffice it to say, Chevrolet was calling their "vehicle identification numbers" exactly that well before any government legislated numbering system came into force.
Either way, your car has/had one when new, and still will unless it was removed by someone.

I'm not sure exactly where yours is/was, but I'd look on the door post/jamb at the front edge of the driver's door.

For more information on VIN/serial numbers in 1948, look here:
https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyresto/4813.htm

Hope that helps. 🙂

PS
While it is true that many states used the engine number to title cars, many did not.
When they didn't, they used the serial number/VIN.

I did not read all the replys but in 1948 the igniton key fit the doors also and the trunk.

The key number is stamped on the pawl for the door lock cylinder, The number will be in the 8000- and 9000 rangee.

In '48 it is on the passenger side. Between the front door hinges.


Locked position. Key needed to turn.

As to a battery, Group 1 Most farm supply and auto store can still get them. Bought one two weeks ago at oreilleys.https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ize-1/ssb5/1?q=group+1+battery&pos=0

Exactly. Any "Number" that is used to identify a "Vehicle" is by definition the "Vehicle Identification Number". Be it 1 character or 100 characters long it's a VIN.

Russ: When you have shown a pic of something from your car as a reference for an item, everything is always so clean, neat and perfect that I was shocked to see the scratch below the ignition switch. I guess that means you do start the car from time to time. And the T on the throttle knob is not straight! OH MY! And to think you and your car are my mentor.
Hope you realize i'm only messing with you, so don't be offended. That car is really beautiful. How long did it take to get it that way? As Charlie always said, us Fleetliners got to stick together. Speaking of him, I haven't seen a post from him for a good time now. Hope all is well with him.

Dick

Dick, 95% of the pictures I post are some I pull from a large file folder of cars ('46,'47,'48)I have encounter along the years. Easer to do that than go take a picture and download to post.

I can not remember exactly the year myself and 10 or 11 others incorporated the Central Georgia Region Chapter of the VCCA. At that time the person we elected as our first president had a collection of 98 cars. Most were Chevrolets. 2 '47's and 4 '48's., is where I took many picture to use as reference. Without those I would have never been able to reassemble my car since I did not take it apart. It came to me in many, many boxes of parts. Those boxes sat from '06 to 2010 when I finally decided to try and put it back together. For 3 years doing some little something every day with the help of those pic's and the help from here on chat I succeeded.

You forced me to go take this

I have also admired Russ's 48 for the years I have been on VCCA Chat. My 48 is not as nice, but it is like it was when a little 94 lb lady had it.

Thanks for the pics! Exactly what is in this car, and in the locked position so needs a key. So the info on all the keys being the same and where the numbers are is right on. I will advise when I get to try the solutions… Thanks,

Well, you certainly did an excellent job! Updated pic looks more like I expected of you.

Dick

Remove a door lock and send me the code. I will be glad to make a key and send it to you.
If the car is to be sold, as stated in your original post, I would not do anything to get it running. Let the new owner do all that stuff, his way. I bought a car that had been stored for 60 years and the tires aired up enough to move it from the New York barn. It would be nice to know that the engine will turn, but other than that, I would leave it alone. If the car looks as good as you describe, that will sell it. The one thing you can do to make the car bring its fair value is to get a good title for it.

Mike