VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 35 Master

I noticed my 35 Master Coupe is about 1" lower on one side that the other when I look at it from the back. Does anyone have any ides how to make it more level?

First be sure you are checking it with the car on a flat level surface. Needless to say springs are the most common reason for sag but other suspension wear can affect it somewhat also.

Jon are those the original springs? if so maybe the leaf springs may be more worn on one side. I have heard that one can get the springs re arched. I have no idea where that can be done.
CarDC

Springs do get tired with age and use. Before you do anything check your point of reference. For example, the frame could be level but the bumper could be lower on one end

I have a slight sag on my '37. One fix I plan to try is to replace the clips that bundle the leaves together. A few of them have broken and allow the leaves to separate at the ends. That lets a spring flex more. I have not found a source for the factory style wrap-around clips so I plan to make some from bar stock.

Leaf springs can easily be-arched. I did mine on a anvil ( railroad. rail ) and hammer.

If I re-arch the springs, how do I know how much is needed?

You would have to compare it to the other side by laying them side by side.

If one spring is really visually flatter than the other, getting it to match visually will reduce your problem, though maybe short term if the spring is weak.

Proper re-arching is more than a visually comparing them as they could be the same "shape" when unloaded but one may be significantly weaker when loaded and forced to act like a spring. A shop measures the actual spring tension with a gauge when re-arching them to make sure each leaf is comparable side to side and then measuring to make sure the complete assembled bundle of springs compares when finished.

Since I've never taken the springs off this car are the "shields" on them hard to get off?

Take the springs completely off and then see if you can get the spring covers off without destroying them. They get brittle with age and are not really meant to be removed and re-installed. If you are careful you may be able to save them as not many survived.

My Grandfather would take his apart. He would replace individual springs with good ones from the junk yard.

I did not realize that your car had covers on the springs. Like Tim stated, they are not intended to be removed. I can only imagine the manufacturing process that Chevy used to install them at the factory. The replacement covers (if you can find them) are a completely different design so they can be installed on a spring while it is on the car.

It would not surprise me if you found a broken leaf once you get things apart. The purpose of the spring covers was to protect the springs and help them operate more quietly. Typically there was a burlap-type material wrapped around the spring before the cover was installed. That material was soaked in heavily oil/grease. If you look at the lubrication instructions for the car it probably includes something about adding grease to the covers.

The reality is that while the covers protected the springs initially in the longer term they became a trap for dirt and moisture. Finding rusted and broken springs inside is not unusual.

I'm going to take the Springs loose this week. Which spring do I get re-arched, the long one?

The one on the lowside.

Which is the short one, right?

I’m a little confused by the “long” and “short” terms.

You want to re-arch the spring that is flatter. The distance between a line that connects the spring eyes and the middle of the springs will be less than the other spring That is why you have as Gene notes a “lowside”.

I gues I still don't know which spring. Is it the one with the eye?

Sorry for my continued confusion. When I say spring I do mean an assembly of multiple leaves bolted together. The longest leaf typically has an eye at each end. The other leaves are flat with each one shorter that the one next to it.

Normally the whole assembly is re-arched.

I will be the first to admit that I do not know the detailed construction of the leaf spring assemblies on your car.

Can I get by by re-arching just the Drivers side or do I have to do both sides? Is there any other way to lift the Drivers side?

I took my springs to a local machine shop and they re-arched them perfectly.

I encourage you to let the shop do both springs so they do match. Otherwise how will the shop know if they did the one spring correctly?

Also, here is a trick I would try before taking the springs to the shop. Swap them side for side and see how the car sits. You might be surprised.

I assume that the rear is sitting at an acceptable level. If the left rear is sagging that will also make the right front come up some.

You are right about the rear left sagging and the right front being up some. Still wonder if there is any way to lift the Left side without re-arching the Springs.

Anyone willing to confess what they paid to have a set re-ached. Inquiring minds want to know what to expect.

Most machine shops charge by the hour. Call them and ask. Laying the same length spring beside another same size on edge and compare the curve to the other one. It's easy to see one that's failed. You can take it off and compare to the other side by holding it along side the other side. Both springs laying on the pavement.

Jon
Did you ever get the springs corrected on your car? I am curious if you got them re acrched and if so what was the cost.