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Posted By: Jonjet 35 Master - 04/20/21 02:20 AM
I noticed my 35 Master Coupe is about 1" lower on one side that the other when I look at it from the back. Does anyone have any ides how to make it more level?
Posted By: m006840 Re: 35 Master - 04/20/21 01:53 PM
First be sure you are checking it with the car on a flat level surface. Needless to say springs are the most common reason for sag but other suspension wear can affect it somewhat also.
Posted By: CarDC Re: 35 Master - 04/20/21 05:36 PM
Jon are those the original springs? if so maybe the leaf springs may be more worn on one side. I have heard that one can get the springs re arched. I have no idea where that can be done.
CarDC
Posted By: Rusty 37 Master Re: 35 Master - 04/20/21 05:42 PM
Springs do get tired with age and use. Before you do anything check your point of reference. For example, the frame could be level but the bumper could be lower on one end

I have a slight sag on my '37. One fix I plan to try is to replace the clips that bundle the leaves together. A few of them have broken and allow the leaves to separate at the ends. That lets a spring flex more. I have not found a source for the factory style wrap-around clips so I plan to make some from bar stock.
Posted By: chevy1937 Re: 35 Master - 04/20/21 08:31 PM
Leaf springs can easily be-arched. I did mine on a anvil ( railroad. rail ) and hammer.
Posted By: Jonjet Re: 35 Master - 04/25/21 01:37 AM
If I re-arch the springs, how do I know how much is needed?
Posted By: chevy1937 Re: 35 Master - 04/25/21 12:04 PM
You would have to compare it to the other side by laying them side by side.
Posted By: canadiantim Re: 35 Master - 04/25/21 12:29 PM
If one spring is really visually flatter than the other, getting it to match visually will reduce your problem, though maybe short term if the spring is weak.

Proper re-arching is more than a visually comparing them as they could be the same "shape" when unloaded but one may be significantly weaker when loaded and forced to act like a spring. A shop measures the actual spring tension with a gauge when re-arching them to make sure each leaf is comparable side to side and then measuring to make sure the complete assembled bundle of springs compares when finished.
Posted By: Jonjet Re: 35 Master - 04/25/21 01:50 PM
Since I've never taken the springs off this car are the "shields" on them hard to get off?
Posted By: canadiantim Re: 35 Master - 04/25/21 04:32 PM
Take the springs completely off and then see if you can get the spring covers off without destroying them. They get brittle with age and are not really meant to be removed and re-installed. If you are careful you may be able to save them as not many survived.
Posted By: terrill Re: 35 Master - 04/26/21 11:57 AM
My Grandfather would take his apart. He would replace individual springs with good ones from the junk yard.
Posted By: Rusty 37 Master Re: 35 Master - 04/26/21 03:43 PM
I did not realize that your car had covers on the springs. Like Tim stated, they are not intended to be removed. I can only imagine the manufacturing process that Chevy used to install them at the factory. The replacement covers (if you can find them) are a completely different design so they can be installed on a spring while it is on the car.

It would not surprise me if you found a broken leaf once you get things apart. The purpose of the spring covers was to protect the springs and help them operate more quietly. Typically there was a burlap-type material wrapped around the spring before the cover was installed. That material was soaked in heavily oil/grease. If you look at the lubrication instructions for the car it probably includes something about adding grease to the covers.

The reality is that while the covers protected the springs initially in the longer term they became a trap for dirt and moisture. Finding rusted and broken springs inside is not unusual.
Posted By: Jonjet Re: 35 Master - 04/26/21 05:45 PM
I'm going to take the Springs loose this week. Which spring do I get re-arched, the long one?
Posted By: Chev Nut Re: 35 Master - 04/26/21 06:10 PM
The one on the lowside.
Posted By: Jonjet Re: 35 Master - 04/26/21 09:20 PM
Which is the short one, right?
Posted By: Rusty 37 Master Re: 35 Master - 04/26/21 09:36 PM
I’m a little confused by the “long” and “short” terms.

You want to re-arch the spring that is flatter. The distance between a line that connects the spring eyes and the middle of the springs will be less than the other spring That is why you have as Gene notes a “lowside”.
Posted By: Jonjet Re: 35 Master - 04/26/21 10:07 PM
I gues I still don't know which spring. Is it the one with the eye?
Posted By: Rusty 37 Master Re: 35 Master - 04/27/21 12:40 AM
Sorry for my continued confusion. When I say spring I do mean an assembly of multiple leaves bolted together. The longest leaf typically has an eye at each end. The other leaves are flat with each one shorter that the one next to it.

Normally the whole assembly is re-arched.

I will be the first to admit that I do not know the detailed construction of the leaf spring assemblies on your car.
Posted By: Jonjet Re: 35 Master - 04/27/21 06:02 PM
Can I get by by re-arching just the Drivers side or do I have to do both sides? Is there any other way to lift the Drivers side?
Posted By: J Franklin Re: 35 Master - 04/27/21 06:49 PM
I took my springs to a local machine shop and they re-arched them perfectly.
Posted By: Rusty 37 Master Re: 35 Master - 04/27/21 08:22 PM
I encourage you to let the shop do both springs so they do match. Otherwise how will the shop know if they did the one spring correctly?

Also, here is a trick I would try before taking the springs to the shop. Swap them side for side and see how the car sits. You might be surprised.

I assume that the rear is sitting at an acceptable level. If the left rear is sagging that will also make the right front come up some.
Posted By: Jonjet Re: 35 Master - 04/27/21 09:54 PM
You are right about the rear left sagging and the right front being up some. Still wonder if there is any way to lift the Left side without re-arching the Springs.
Posted By: Achipmunk Re: 35 Master - 04/28/21 01:45 AM
Anyone willing to confess what they paid to have a set re-ached. Inquiring minds want to know what to expect.
Posted By: terrill Re: 35 Master - 04/28/21 03:39 AM
Most machine shops charge by the hour. Call them and ask. Laying the same length spring beside another same size on edge and compare the curve to the other one. It's easy to see one that's failed. You can take it off and compare to the other side by holding it along side the other side. Both springs laying on the pavement.
Posted By: CarDC Re: 35 Master - 05/12/21 03:37 PM
Jon
Did you ever get the springs corrected on your car? I am curious if you got them re acrched and if so what was the cost.
Posted By: 35Mike Re: 35 Master - 05/13/21 05:57 PM
In the early 90s, my boss bought a '59 Studebaker 3/4 ton truck for me to drive as a company truck. One of the things we did to it was to have the front springs re-arched. I took them to a spring company in Kansas City, MO. The cost was reasonable and the results were just what we wanted. I don't remember the cost, but it would not be relevant since it was so long ago.

Mike
Posted By: beachbum Re: 35 Master - 05/14/21 07:16 AM
I had all the springs re-arced on my 58 GMC quite a few years ago. Usually they do both the front, and rear as sets. During the process to insure they end up fairly even they interchange individual leafs from side to side. This firm heated up the individual leafs to de-temper them, re-arced, re-tempered, and reassembled the sets. They should do something similar now.

Art
Posted By: Chev Nut Re: 35 Master - 05/14/21 02:02 PM
years back rearched the springs on my '57. Brught up the ear nicely. Ayear later was back to the low rider look

If the car is lower on one side there probly a broken leaf.
Posted By: Jonjet Re: 35 Master - 05/14/21 04:43 PM
I hope not.
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