Lately, like the last 6 months, I have made little progress and little time to drive the 1930, 2 door coach.

When I start the vehicle on a regular basis, say 1 or 2 times a week, it starts fine, without too much trouble.
But when it is longer, the car now coughs and spits and coughs some more as I try to find the correct amount of
gas to give it. It did not use to do this. Any suggestions?

I started the car and drove it 2 miles yesterday so I will soon go back and see how it is.

ON A DIFFERENT TOPIC, I took my axel/grease cap covers in to be chromed. I had 2 that matched and 2 other that were
different. I felt the price for all new ones from the FS was more than I wanted to spend at this point. During the
chroming process, the small disc (nickle size) in the center on one cap fell out. I am looking for a used one that someone may have
and be willing to part with.

My best guess is that something is going on with the float bowl of the carb. There is possibly dirt in there that settles when the car sits for more than a week and it partially plugs the jet.

Or the fuel is leaking out and there is not enough fuel in the carb to keep things running until after the fuel pump catches up.

You might want to try this test the next time you start the car after it has been sitting for more than a week. Before you turn on the ignition run the starter 3 or 4 cycles of about 10 seconds each. This will run the fuel pump and make sure the float bowl is filled. Then set the choke and hand throttle, turn on the ignition, and hit the starter.

Let us know what happens.

In addition to the suggestions above - How old is the fuel?

It will start to degrade after a month or so and get worse as it ages, possibly causing problems sooner if there are any other weak engine components like points/condenser/plugs/coil.

THANK YOU for the excellent comments. I did start the car today after starting yesterday. I DID still have some of the coughing, sputtering and reluctance to start and run
smooth. (I used to not have this...but I am repeating myself)

Yes, the gas is old, over 2 months. But I do add fuel stabilizer, always. ( I understand there are mixed reviews of STA-BIL.) BUT, I did add 3-4 gallons of new gas over the
last 2 days.

Today, I also drove the car a couple miles to "move" fuel through the lines and incorporate my new fuel.

2 months is still quite good so suspect other areas causing the issue as above.. I've had no issues with Stabil over the last 20ish years and use it in everything that sits.

Rusty.

I did try your method today. I feel like it improved the starting today. There was less of the coughing and rough starting/running.
Monday should be a better test as I will not drive the car for 3 days.

As for the STA-BIL, I recall that Napa had 2 types of the product. Good and better!!!!!!!!

Thanks to all.

Well, I started the car on Weds., the 23, after 4 days off. It took 3-4 minutes before the car started to run smooth. I tried the method Rusty suggested again.
I guess the carb. needs some attention.

Most of the gas in the tank is very fresh so that should not be the issue.

wondering ? is there a leak somewhere, say an air leak, so that when it sits, the fuel slowly drains back out the carb & line ??

Also, check your float to make sure that it is not full of gas.

This is a test. I just wrote a current update and it disappeared. So I am going to retry to see if I am doing this
correctly. Thank you.

OK, I STILL HAVE THIS STARTING PROBLEM.

Yesterday I replaced all the old fuel. cleaned the bowl of sediment. blew down the fuel line BACK to the tank. I blew forward to the
Carburetor. I put in 3 gallons of new fuel. NOW, the fuel WILL NOT pump forward and fill the glass filter bowl. Of course, the reason I blew down the lines wasn
to clear the old fuel as much as possible. Yes, before I did this, the fuel pumped to the bowl.

WHAT DID I DO?

Sounds like you are now to the point that you may need a professional mechanic to help you. At any rate, disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and then turn the engine over to see if the fuel pump is pumping lots of fuel out of the line. If not the issue is probably with your fuel pump. Also, if your glass bowl is sucking air that would cause starting issues as well.

Hi J D.

I have seen your posts b4 and I know u are trying to help. thanks. the fuel is not getting to the carb. The fuel is not even getting to the glass bowl/filter. Yesterday, it did.
The glass bowl/filter has the rubber gasket in. How can the glass bowl suck air?
Why?

If the bowl isn't properly seated in the pump it won't pump or if it does pump it'll leak like a sieve.
Don't ask how I know.......

And, to add to the above, the rubber bowl gaskets tend to suck air. I only use cork bowl gaskets for that reason.


If that is the case then the problem is either your fuel pump or the problem is located between the fuel pump and the dip tube inside of the gas tank. I would start with the fuel pump. Remove the fuel pump from the engine and manually check it to see if it is pumping as it should. If it isn't then the problem is with your fuel pump.

thanks.

I will check these out next week.

but wasn't I sent the rubber gasket by the FS? funny. I forgot about it and d/n see the rubber gasket yesterday, but today
I did. could I have it in the wrong location?

The bowl gasket can only go in one location on the fuel pump.

When i wrote my comment i was talking about the fuel BOWL/FILTER container. I think I am confusing everyone.

I recently rebuilt the Fuel Pump on my 1929: 1929 Fuel Pump Rebuild

you could also disconnect the fuel lines on the Fuel Pump and use a vacuuum/ pressure gauge to test to see IF the pump is sucking/ pumping fuel !!

and IF you blew air into the fuel pump might have unseated or ruptured the diapragm !!

and I have the rubber gasket on my fuel glass bowl on fuel pump with the screen and drop in filter, and pumps great.

Yes you are. When asking questions be as specific as you can so that we will know exactly what you are talking about. We assumed that you were talking about your fuel pump. At any rate in your last post you mentioned the "fuel BOWL/FILTER container". Are you referring to the glass bowl and the wire mesh filter that is on the fuel pump or are you talking about an additional fuel filter that you have installed at another location in your fuel system?

Someone once stated "a picture is worth a thousand words.........". It might help.

Jon.

Yep........a photo of the part in question would be a big help, however, I don't think that Bauer is a member of the VCCA so he probably can't post any photos on this site.

Hello Bauer,
By blowing air thru the fuel line/lines to clear away old fuel, I think that there would be no fuel available to "prime the pump" as they say. Putting fresh fuel in the fuel tank may not migrate, by itself, over to the fuel filter/bowl/pump assemblies without a little help. Try removing the glass bowl and with low pressure, force fuel in the fuel tank thru the line. When fuel flows to the filter, fill the glass bowl with fresh fuel and install glass bowl correctly. Disconnect fuel line at carburetor and again apply low pressure at fuel tank for a short time. You may or may-not get fuel to run out at the end of the carb line. The object is to force some fuel to the pump so that it can do it's job. Verify that the pump is working by cranking the engine starter (ignition OFF) a few revolutions and looking for fuel to flow out the carb end of the line. If NO fuel or little fuel flows, suspect fuel pump issues. If good flow, reconnect fuel line to carb and continue to investigate engine running concerns. Check that your fuel cap breather is not plugged up. Be safe around fuel. Good Luck.

Have you checked the check valves in your fuel pump. The check valves are located on the large diameter end of your fuel pump towards the front of the engine. As you look at the fuel pump from above you will see two hex head "bolts" if you will on either side of the diaphragm chamber. Remove those and take care not to bend the fine wire springs which are under them. The springs in combination with the discs that are under them are the check valves. Their purpose is to stop the flow of gasoline backwards out of the fuel pump. They can be damaged by forcing air thru the pump. I learned that by experience. When reassembling the check valves take caution to get the springs in place properly. If the are damaged in one manner or another you will need to order a fuel pump rebuild kit. Filling station has them available and I'm certain there are other vendors as well. The rebuild is not difficult. Take your time and pay close attention as you dismantle your pump. It isn't difficult and most anyone with mechanical aptitude can perform the rebuild.

Try this take the gas cap off, cover the filler hole with your hand and take a air hose and blow it in the tank stick the hose between your thumb and keep the seal. it will fill the bowl and get to the pump Short bursts of air.
Worked for me on a new tank and fuel lines. I disconnected the fuel line at the fuel pump going to the carb, put a pan underneath it and you will hear it come out into the pan or get a helper. Then hook up the line and do the same procedure and it will fill the carb.

After several months away from working on this car, I am refocused. Thanks for all the suggestions. I did try and "reseat " the gas/glass bowl last week and
filled it with gas in order to get gas moving(if that is the problem). NO LUCK. NO CHANGE. WON'T START.

Question. Should I need to prime the pump to start? ( Idon't remember having to do that 5 yrs. ago.)

Question Do u think the pump needs to be rebuilt in this short time?

Question I am pretty sure, for the glass bowl/filter, the gasket, rubber in my case,, goes TO THE TOP of the assembly

I am going to play close attn. to Smokeman, Terry and Harrys 31 Coach in the next few days.

Yes, I am a member of the VCCA

In some of our old cars that sit for awhile the needle valves in the carburetor will stick in the closed position. When the car was shut down the carb bowl was full. This traps air between the pump and carb. The pump at times can not overcome that cushion of air and can not even fill the pump bowl. I have had to give the carb a couple of sharp taps near the inlet to "unstick" the needle valve. Try loosening the compression fitting on the downstream side of the pump just a little. Bear in mind it may take several minutes of cranking to see anything in the bowl. Do not run the starter that long in a single attempt. It needs to cool down after 15 to 20 second bursts. Make sure you at least have an undamaged screen type filter in the pump. One of the paper filters from the FS is better.

Glad that you are a member. However, your profile on this site doesn't reflect that you are a member of the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America, so you might want to update your profile with that info. and also add the VCCA logo to your user name.

I have found that many of the fuel pump housings particularly at the glass bowl are warped. The warp comes from tightening the bale holding the glass bowl too tight. Over time the die-cast will warp. Rubber gaskets are too stiff to compress enough to seal the glass bowl. Try a fairly thick cork gasket. Any air leaking past the gasket will keep the pump from working.

For those that tried to help me several months ago, I finally resolved the problem by having the carburetor rebuilt. The "plunger" thing on the side was not operating. Sorry for the stupid description but someone will set me straight. NOW, THE PROBLEM IS, between the idle adjustment and the throttle adjustment, I can't quite get it adjusted where the car runs smooth.
CAN YOU HELP?

That is called the "accelerator pump assembly".

On the car not running smooth, can you describe what it is doing? Also, have you checked the timing on your car and, if so, what is the timing> What spark plugs are you running?

JD..I haven't checked the timing in 8 months or so. (That is to say, when it was last done by others.) The spark plugs are the same ones I had when I drove it from my old warehouse to my new one, 12 months ago. They are the ones I purchased from FS.

The car will start pretty good if I start it 2 times a week. It will run and I will push in the throttle on the dash. It seems that after a few minutes it will get running rough. I will try adjusting the idle screw or the throttle screw with mixed results.

I have a timing light but I have never set the timing on my 1930. I have set the timing on a Mustang.

We could use specifics to help you with your questions.......such as what brand and type of spark plugs did you buy from the Filling Station? What do you have the spark plugs gapped at? Describe running rough.....what does the car do when it is running rough.....backfiring, missing, idle speed increases and decreases, popping out the tailpipe at idle?? Also, you or someone needs to check the timing to verify what the exact timing is currently.

thank you. will ck on some of these things tomorrow. I am currently trying to re install the front apron in addition
to all else. I am still resolving the clearance issues from 3 years ago.!!!!!!!

A couple of things come to mind.

1. The timing light that you use on your Mustang relies on 12V to power it. Unless your Chevy has been converted to 12V, you will need another power source. I used the battery from my riding mower. With an external source, make certain that you connect the negative of the external source to the frame of the Chevy otherwise you will fry your timing light.

2. Your rough running problem could be as simple as the choke not being fully open - a simple adjustment of the cable to the dash.

You really do need to check it. Where we store our cars ML had another member who was familiar with newer Chevrolets tune up his 29. They set it at the UC mark. It along with air getting past the water pump was a big factor in the car overheating and cracking the head in 4 places. Art

I usually drive my 31 daily. However, if I have to let her (my car is a lady) sit for a
while, I merely pump the gas petal several times, and she starts right up. That seems to "move" the gas in the carb, or prime it.