32barnfind, the '34 Master has the four-digit key code on the shaft of the locking door handle. I don't know if the '32 has it there also. Someone else may know. It would be easier to got that code and have a locksmith cut you a new key.
if it is the original electrolock there is a code as noted on the tumbler, if the local locksmith looks it up in the system under Briggs & Stratton they can cut a key. had to do that with my 1929
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Hi, So I tracked down 2 blanks. I had 1 cut to the code on the door handle. It works for the door, but unfortunately not on the ignition. Is there anyway to get the code off the ignition without it being unlocked? Thanks again
You have discovered the “Catch 22” with these locks. You have to have a working key to remove the lock cylinder so you can find the code to make a working key!
My best guess is that someone replaced the ignition lock on your car. Typically the ignition lock fails more frequently than the door lock. It gets a lot more use. That is what happened to my car. I was lucky to have both keys. So I was able to get the ignition lock cylinder re-keyed to match the door. Or maybe I went the other way. Either way I ended up with one key for the door and ignition.
You might post in the “parts wanted” section to borrow or rent a set of master keys. Also there are still a few locksmiths that have a set.
The most likely situation is that the ignition lock is frozen and the correct key will not operate it. Over the years the two die-cast internal pieces have swelled together. It is far too common for these ~90 year old parts. The center two pieces will move versus the outside cylinder but not between them. If you are extremely lucky the frozen parts might have some small movement that with lubrication and working them back and forth can restore enough movement to have the center pop out. That position reveals a button that can be pushed and the two pieces removed and reveal the lock code number. With gentle tapping and working the lock the tab piece can be removed and the center (with key slot) part pushed back and out it can take hours if nothing breaks to take it apart. If so, the two die-cast pieces can be sanded to restore a gap and the lock saved.
I have at least 20 of these locks that have resisted every attempt to free them including boiling in peanut oil. Eventually I will have to break the center section and replace it if and when reproductions are ever made. Been working on these locks for over 50 years so kinda know what I am doing. I can look at your lock if you send it to me but based on what has been posted am not optimistic.
Thank you for the generous offer! I've uploaded a short video hoping to maybe get your thoughts as to whether it is seized.
Hopefully the link works!
One other piece of information.
When the locksmith cut the key based on the door code, he said 2 of the cuts/notches that the code called for were not deep enough to cut into the key.
I have looked at the video a number of times. I can't be sure but there are a few turns of the key that almost look like the cover on the key slot moves ever so slightly before the entire pop-out part moves. If so it might not be frozen. The fact that the door lock key does not operate the switch causes me to have doubt that what I think I see is an unfrozen key cylinder. Even if not frozen picking the lock to get it to move enough so it pops out is a big step. It is a crap shoot at best.
If you want to spend the cost of shipping I can evaluate it. No guarantees but I am probably the best to evaluate it. I have worked on over 100 of them so have more experience that any local locksmith.
I sent the electrolock cable assembly to Chipper without a key and he was able to pick the lock and make new keys. He has the experience with these units to "get them to cooperate". Yes, there are no guarantees but if it is reparable he can do it. Good luck with your five window coupe!
Once you have it popped out like you do, you will have to remove the key head lock from the dash and push the small button under there to pop out the key tumbler. Keep it pointed up so the phenolic card with the brass rivets does not drop out. It will only work when installed in one direction. The key number should be stamped on the base of the key tumbler. There are two people who work on those listed in the national newsletter.
