VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 fuse size and light resistor

I own a 1927 Chevrolet capital truck. I am looking at the wiring and wiring diagram. What is the fuse size and is there a replacement part for the resistor coil for the lights? Is the resistor necessary for the lights? Parts availability? Thanks for the help- Paul

The resistor coil allows you to go from high to low beam headlights. I believe the fuse is 20 amp and the coil comes with the headlight switch. You might be able to find a resistor at an electronics store as a replacement. Just a thought but never seen it done.

The resistor was bad on my 28, just left it off and if I remember right I think I wired it so the lights would work in either position. The 6 volt headlights are dim enough that I didn’t want them any dimmer. Did the same thing on the 27 speedster.

I've made new headlight resisters out of old coil ballast resistors. Has always worked for me.

. Here's a wiring diagram if that's any assistance. .
. Lou

I was wondering if a headlight foot operated dimmer switch would solve the problem? The 27 truck was wired in the most peculiar manner. I have found cut wires, grounds and other bad connectors. I am planning to start to rewire the truck. The wiring diagram is great. It is better than the repair book as I can blow it up in size. So, my next question is what does the fuse control? Lights, general ignition, ??? Also, I am finding up to three wires attached to one lead that is hot. For example, the fuel pump. I do not like this type of overload on one terminal. I am thinking of installing a fuse/terminal lead board to break up the over wired terminal. What do you think? Paul

. Hi Paul, .
Your amp meter problem sounds like it is not connected correctly or at all. The fuse is frequently by passed cuz it is difficult to access. It carries the load except for the coil. The wiring diagram appears incorrect. The battery should be on one side of the amp meter. The generator and load (Lights, coil, horn) should be on the other terminal. If you connect it backwards, it will work backwards unless you have a positive ground system.
. The 1927 fuel pump is vacuum powered and doesn't work up hill. The 29 fuel pump is powered by a cam lobe. An electric fuel pump may have been added by previous mechanic. .
. The 1927 has a single filament headlight and goes from dim to dimmer with a resister to lower voltage. The 1929 and newer has 2 filament headlights and aims down when dimmed. .
. Good idea to rewire. Be sure to use grommets so wire don't chafe and short. Unless you frequently tow a trailer, a good rewire shouldn't short out. A fuse for each item is a good idea if you add fuses. You will probably want to add directional signals, power port, heater fan, and other items not original equipment on your 27 . .
. Good luck, . Lou .

Hi Lou,
I have already taken your advice on rewiring the truck. The wires were in a plastic sleeve. I started to remove the sleeves and found a nightmare of wires, no grommets, broken wires, and cut wires. Also, I found a major electrical short that I repaired. I have some problems with the ignition switch. Not all of the wire sockets that hold the wire screw in place works. I found several leads on one wire socket. Slowly I am checking out the wiring. I plan to remove the switch once I trace out all of the wires. I will review the wiring diagram as well. Thanks for the help- Paul

Hi Everyone,
I have taken all of your help in consideration and am rewiring. I have an electrical horn problem. I have power coming into the horn and power attached to the steering column. This wiring does not agree with the wiring diagram. The wire is not attached to the horn button. The horn button worked. I am guessing the horn button is acting as a ground.
I removed the horn and took off the back cover. The back cover was damaged, and a piece of copper was heavily soldered on the back inside wall of the cover. I heated up the copper and removed it. I heated it again to remove any excess solder. Temporary fix is duct tape to cover the hole.
I reattached the wiring to the horn, and it worked, now it does not. I plan to check if the solder is creating a ground in the horn cover, but I am perplexed as to why the wire from the horn is attached to the steering column. I cannot find any wire going to the horn button. My thoughts on electricity is that is "FM"--friggin magic- How to repair this mess? Thanks Paul

Paul:
Take a jumper wire and hook it to ground and then to the wire going into the steering column. If the horn works then your problem is in the column; if not then ground at the wire in back of the horn on the wire going to the steering column. If it still doesn't work then clean the contacts on the armature of the horn motor. A drop of light machine oil on the armature bearings works wonders. And yes; the horn button completes the horn ground.

I apologize to ChatMaster-750 for not responding sooner. I found another parts horn. The back cover was about the only thing worth salvaging! Thanks