VCCA Home Forums GENERAL DISCUSSION General Discussions Continued Start Issues

Curious if I am the only victim of ongoing no-start issues with cars from the 30's and 40's? Currently own a 31 Chevy and a 40 Ford. Both really nicely restored examples. Find if I don't make a deliberate attempt of starting and driving them on a weekly basis they refuse to start. Takes removing the air cleaner and injecting starting fluid. Even then it takes a while for each to take hold and run on their own accord. Have to think back in the day these vehicles were far more cooperative. I also have a 56 Oldsmobile having owned in for over twenty years. No such concern EVER with this vehicle.

Modern fuel evaporate more readily than when these vehicles were new. Consequently the float bowls tend to dry out when they sit for periods of time. This requires a longer cranking time to refill the float bowl before the engine gets fuel. Some carburetors have a vent that you can shoot gas into to fill the bowl prior to starting. I put an electric pump on my 53 to fill the bowl before starting when it's been sitting. I have it plumbed as a bypass so it only runs when I press the switch and the mechanical pump doesn't have to work to pull gas through it. On my 38 I haven't done that. I just let it crank for a few seconds, pause & pump the throttle then crank for a few more seconds and repeat until it starts. It usually takes three to four repeats for it to start. It helps to have clean connections and properly sized battery cables. Others will probably chime in with their solutions.

I believe the problem is exacerbated by the hydrocarbon blend in modern gasoline. Modern engines are fuel injected which allow more volatile components to be blended. Fuel injection systems are basically closed to the atmosphere keeping the gasoline contained. Our older carburetors were designed when less volatile fuels were used so fuel evaporation can be a problem. Some carburetors being more enclosed allow lower evaporation so they don't have the same starting problems that occasional use produces.

So the real answer is depends! Depends on the gasoline blend, carburetor design, ambient temperature and condition of the engine fuel system. My advise is to learn the idiosyncrasies of each vehicle you own and adjust to them. Additional comments deleted.

Current mindset is to either prime or inject starting fluid "each time" when starting after short term storage as a means to avoid further strain on the starter and battery.

Installing a fuel primer from an outboard motor works well. If my cars sit for a while I just pump the fuel up with the primer.

On my '31s if they have run in the last few days all it takes is to turn on the ignition switch (electroloc), push the starter pedal, after about a single rotation, pull out the choke to its max and immediately push it in. Doesn't take more than a revolution for it to be running. After that just turn on the switch and push the starter pedal. Same for my '28 Coupe except once running I can't take my foot off the starter pedal fast enough for it to not be running. I use non-ethanol gas when ever I can get it.

Hello Steelin Time, where did you locate the hand primer? Before of after the fuel pump? Does this also fill the carburetor float bowl? This sounds like a easy fix to prime the fuel system without beating up the starter and using up the battery.

My experiences with my '37 are similar. If I drive it every 2 or 3 days it typically starts with just abut half choke and only a little bit of cranking. Longer than that then I need full choke and a 2 or 3 runs of 5 seconds or so on the starter to get it going.

I do have an electric booster pump on my other classic car. I need to use it after 3 days of not running the engine.

For my hand choke cars I all ways pulled the choke all the way out for starting if the car sat for 24 hours or more, summer and winter and since my first car, a 1939 Chevrolet in1950.