VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 31 Independnce no start

My 31 Independence was running just fine last visit. This week it cranks but no start. Traced the ignition having checked fuses, wires, feed to the coil and both lower and upper field ohm read and condition of points. All parts having been recently replaced. Now wondering if it's a clogged screen in the fuel pump or the pump itself. Wanted to try priming the car but no means being an updraft unit. Suggestions please??`

The coil is warm to the touch. Should it be hot? I read somewhere I could run a feed from the positive pole of the battery to the positive side of the coil as a test. Is that prudent?

The best trouble shooting process is to first verify spark at the points. Turn on ignition switch, open and close points with center coil wire end 1/2" from ground. You should see and hear the spark jump the gap. If not short across the points with screwdriver, coin or wire. If the spark is better than open and close the points then clean the points until they are nearly the same. Once you have verified good spark then look at fueling.

No sputtering or adverse symptoms on the previous run. If spark is present will first check the screen inside the pump bowl. Anyway to prime the updraft carb for this car? Best means to check for fuel pressure?

Chipper - Had also heard another check was to remove a plug and reinsert it into the cable end and hold 1/2 inch from block while cranking the engine. Is that a viable alternative test for spark?

They also make an in-line spark tester. Remove the plug wire, put the tester on the plug, then attach the plug wire to the other end of the tester. First thing I’ve learned to look for with a no start situation is the amp gauge moving when the ignition is turned on. In most cases it should show negative unless the points are open. If it doesn’t show in the negative, bump the starter and see if it does. Many times the electro lock doesn’t pop out hard enough on some cars and doesn’t make positive enough contact. If it shows in the negative when you turn the ignition on, then move on to checking for good spark either by the way chipper describes or by using a inline spark tester. If spark is good, then move on to fuel. If spark is good and you suspect fuel, possibly since the car was running previously, your float valve could be stuck. Try tapping the edge of the carb just above the bowl with a small hammer. Small taps of course. Then turn the motor over a few times to fill the bowl. Then try starting again. If that doesn’t help, I often pull the line at the fuel pump going to the carb. Use a container and have someone bump the starter (ignition off) and see if fuel is pumping. If not, it could be a bad pump, blocked line, or often, it’s a poor seal around the glass bowl and the pump can’t make suction. I’ve seen many new rubber glass bowl seals not seal as they should. Can’t figure it out why, but it seams I always end up cutting my own out of reinforced cork. Most of us have experienced what you’re going through and these are steps I’ve taken in the past to figure it out.

The ammeter does show a negative when the starter button is applied. She cranks freely but no start. I will test for spark as suggested and tap the carb bowl even so slightly. I sweat this car hates me. Most every trip it's something else. Thank You both. I will reveal the outcome. Plan is to address this tomorrow - Saturday.

Not when the starter is depressed. It should show a negative when the ignition is turned on as the points would be closed. If no negative shows then just bump the starter and look for the negative discharge. If still no negativeness you don’t have ignition so start with the electro lock.

Did a quick visit this morning and yes we do have spark within the distributor housing. Tapped the carb bowl to hopefully address potential for a stuck float. Can I assume it is fuel related? Plan is to pull the line on it to check for flow early Sunday morning. The glass bowl is filled with gasoline.

If you have spark then try a short squirt of carburetor cleaner or starting fluid in the carburetor air intake. Should fire on a few cylinders if ignition system is okay. If it stays running all the better.

It's a updraft carburetor. How to I access the bowl or intake? It appears sealed from all directions.

Actually realized the side of the unit has the removable air cleaner. Assume that is the intake referenced. Need source a spray can of starter fluid in the morning and give it a try. Hoping it's not a defective fuel pump because apparently a replacement is difficult to find.

fuel pump is easy and quick rebuild, unless it is warped....
done the one on my 1929 & 1930 plus the spare on the shelf

It has been rebuilt and had been working correctly prior to the no start issue. Thinking it either a bad pump or a clog in the line from the float cork being dissolved from the new gas blend.

Once a cork float comes apart the pieces tend to go where they can do the most damage. It is a corollary to Murphy's Law. That is one reason I use the brass 40s-50s barrel shaped floats.

Then the line from the tank to the pump would be blocked from the cork and the pump should still be fine. Just follow a process f elimination. Cracking the line on the pump to carb line at the fuel pump and turning it over will tell you if the fuel is going further than the pump. No fuel at that line, either blocked pickup line in the tank, leaking glass bowl gasket, or bad pump. The pump pulls fuel into it by filling the glass bowl first. Another way to check is to drain the glass bowl, reseat the glass bowl, tighten then turn it over, the glass bowl should fill if you’re getting suction and have a unblocked supply line.

SHE'S ALIVE! It was crud in the fuel line. Blew it out and utilized starting fluid to prime. It coughed and died the first few times. Finally took hold and now running once again. Appreciate everyone's assist. Thank You - Ted

When I replace a sending unit float I use the neoprene cork ones available. The antique car parts places get a lot of money for them so I buy them from the small airplane parts guys like Aircraft Spruce. $9.95 ea on their site. They have to use parts that don’t tend to fail because their lives depend on it. They also have a nitrile rubber one but not sure if they are only good for av gas. The neoprene cork ones are impervious to all modern fuels.

agree with Ted on this, i buy and use the Neoprene ones as well. that is what i have in my 1929 :) also get my grommets from Aircraft Spruce

Took the advice and did purchase the Neoprene float. Now a matter of draining the tank and dropping it for installation. As luck would it, had just filled the tank!