Working my way through all existing concerns still on the 31 Independence. Want it road ready for Spring.
The gas pedal rod connects directly to the carb assembly with a return spring connected to the manifold. Pedal does not return fully when foot pressure is released. Need slip my foot under the accelerator button to slow the engine down. I have purchased a replacement spring but wonder if additionally there is adjustment I could render to tighten the assembly up? Too dangerous to drive as is. Difficult to see that area in that it is the back side of the carb wedged against the engine block.
Check that the throttle/butterfly linkage on the carburetor moves freely. generally without the accelerator pedal attached the throttle should return to neutral without effort. also make sure that the accelerator pedal & arm are NOT binding on anything, floorboard, manifold, exhaust pipe, etc.. make sure everything moves with very little effort. when i replaced my spring i put on a little heavier spring as well. more firm of a pedal feel and the pedal easily returns :)
I just put the assembly on my 1929. here are a few photos.
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
The accelerator rod does rest on top of the floor board. It isn't binding the movement. As I attempt to increase the clearance the rod just drops that much lower and drops accordingly. As mentioned I did purchase a new spring and also have the anti rattle spring and washers to add to the assembly. I noted what appears to be a means of adjustment via a turn screw to the front end of the assembly, Would tightening that screw help or does it serve another purpose. One thought was to connect both the new tension spring and old in tandem.
Not sure if you still have the original Carter carburetor but... Have you checked to see if the accelerator pump plunger is sticking or binding in the bore?
This question of course only applies it you have disconnected the accelerator rod as per BearsFan315 above and find the stickiness in the carburetor itself.
you are correct that the pedal does rest on the floor board
and not sure what you mean by:
Originally Posted by TG1931
I noted what appears to be a means of adjustment via a turn screw to the front end of the assembly, Would tightening that screw help or does it serve another purpose. One thought was to connect both the new tension spring and old in tandem.
where is this screw ? on the pedal assembly, which is just a rod and a screw on button (pedal) on the end
any screw on the carburetor adjusts the carburetor, air/fuel mixture, etc...
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
It is the original Carter carburetor. Interesting comment about the accelerator pump. It had been nonfunctional and disconnected. I purchased new parts and rebuilt it. However, the problem with the gas pedal return "preceded" that activity. I did note when inserting the cylinder into the bore the fit seemed tight. It has a fresh replacement end gasket and spring. It occurred to me I should lightly grease the interior but figured it being immersed in gasoline would wash it away. It is now functional and the linkage was cleaned and appears to return fully when the throttle button is disengaged.
The car is a new acquisition but the carburetor looks fresh and the car starts fine, good response, no leakage and idles fine. Short of a rebuild any suggestions on a cleaning method? I recall having read feeding a small amount of Mystery Oil down the port is helpful. The car had sat twelve years prior to my recent purchase so highly feasible it also requires attention.
Going to address the issue this weekend. I really appreciate all assistance! Will try different pedal return spring strengths. Promise to respond with what hopefully is an affirmative end result.
Bears Fan - Your correct. I borrowed the wife's makeup mirror and took a look back behind the carburetor. What I thought was an adjustment screw for the pedal assembly is indeed the idle jet adjustment screw!
We get most of out grain custom hauled now, but when I used to haul grain off the farm to the elevator during the winter, I used to do a pre winter tune up that always included a quart of methyl alcohol in the gas tank before backing out of the shop. It took care of any condensation that may have accumulated before it had a chance to freeze in cold weather. And we never had to work an a carburetor, they were always clean as a whip inside. Even the choke plates looked fresh as new.
Now a few warnings. I use METHYL alcohol, not ethyl or isopropyl. Methyl doesn't mix with gas and goes to the bottom of the tank where any water will be, and will quickly pass through the system. Methyl can be slightly corrosive and the vehicle should be driven enough to run it all through soon after adding. If there is very much "stuff" in the gas tank, the alcohol will "clean" it out and feed it to the rest of the system.
Methyl was what all of the older gas line antifreeze products were. I've used it in all kinds of small engines (snow blowers, auger engines, etc). I've even used smaller amounts (a pint or so) in modern fuel injected cars, including a Mazda we ran 450,000 km. I've never had a problem, no matter how old or new the vehicle. Just be sure to drive it through after you add it
I too throw a gallon in each car in the fall to get rid of any condensation before we get the cold winter weather. Saw too many cars with frozen fuel lines when I worked in a shop as a teen and where I live gets way colder temps and massive temp swings which cause condensation. I also add it to washer fluid so it melts ice on the windshield, not just frost.
I buy it in gallon jugs from NAPA.
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
I am still learning. Admittedly one of my very favorite subjects! Bringing old cars back is as much fun as driving them. Retired this past January and more time to devote to it.
The return spring can be installed over or under the rod on the pedal. Depending on location of the other end the spring can limit the travel before the spring pushes on the rod limiting its travel. If over try under to see if that makes a difference. Or if under try over.
Looked at the accelerator rod assembly after work today in preparation for this weekends project. Appears almost impossible to access that area (large hands) into the area behind the carburetor where the rod and spring connect. Will I need to remove the carburetor in order to access. Hoping not since it requires disconnecting the fuel line and all other linkage. Does the return spring hook around the manifold on the other end or loop over a bolt. The correct new spring has a loop on one end and a cut to size straight end on the other requiring the creating of a hook for insertion into the accelerator rod.
is a tight fit, but can access if you use needle nose pliers or similar. i clip the spring around the exhaust manifold stud between the manifold and the downpipe. then slide on anti rattle spring and washer, then pull the other end of the spring, in your case you will have to clip it and create a loop to work, to clip it to the hole in the accelerator rod.
this is why i used a different firmer spring with dual loops !!
here are a few pictures of my setup
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Like you I hope to source a firmer spring with loops on each end. My local hardware store has a good assortment. The one I bought from The Filling Station site appears flimsy and has a closed loop on one end. Photos are very helpful. Thank You!
Deed is done. Sourced a accelerator replacement return spring and added the small anti rattler spring and washer to the junction. It assembly appears to be more rigid but it's raining here today so will need wait for a test run.
How does it function? Tighten to increase throttle speed and loosen to decrease? Does it in any way impact the tension on the accelerator rod? Since I installed the new return spring the idle speed is too high. Backing off on the idle adjustment screw doesn't seem to impact it.
If backing off the idle speed screw does not lower the speed, it is necessary to center the throttle plate. Take the carburetor off the manifold, loosen the two brass screws holding the throttle plate to the shaft about 1/2 turn. Back off the idle speed screw two to three turns. Push the throttle arm toward the stop (the screw should not touch the stop) and carefully tighten the two brass screws (they are little fellas). Tighten the idle speed screw until the throttle plate has moved a little past the fully closed position. The idle speed can then be adjusted so low the engine will not run.
Thank you both. I will back the throttle screw off a tad tomorrow to see if the idle speed slows down. Had my grubby fingers back in the area trying to get the spring seated. It probably impacted the setting.
