VCCA Home Forums GENERAL DISCUSSION New User Forum 1937 / 38 brake line j-block connectors with hollow bolt

Anyone know where the hollow bolt “J-block” brass connectors go in the brake line system?
( 1937 / 38)
I think to the front wheels?

Not certain I understand. Do you mean the brass junction block fitting that’s on the rear of the master cylinder?

I think they connect the brake line to the brake hose.

If I remember correctly there are 3 hollow bolt” blocks on ”˜37/”˜38 passenger cars. There is one on each rear wheel cylinder and one near the right front wheel. There is not one on the back of the master cylinder for those years.

The tee fittings on the frame near the battery box and the one on the rear axle are not “hollow bolt” blocks.

Thanks
Yes the 3-way T fitting by the battery box and by rear axle are just connections. They don’t have the hollow-with-hole bolt (Called “banjo” bolts in “banjo” connector.
Now I need to find out if they connect to the wheel cylinder or to the other end of the hose to the steel line.
schematics I find don’t show where they go.
The threads on the brake hose fit the threads on the wheel cylinder and also fit the banjo bolt ( the banjo hollow bolt also threads into the wheel cylinder.)
But the banjo connector threads to brake lines only fit the steel brake line fittings but that’s where I need the flexible hose. But it’s a bigger thread.

My 38 1/2ton has a banjo connection at each rear wheel cylinder and another at the end of the master cylinder. The 1 at the master cylinder is fully hollow and threaded to accept the stop light switch. The front wheel cylinders are made to accept the flex hose with a copper washer, the chassis end is made to accept the standard steel pipe fitting and to rigidly mount the joint.
Tony

Thank you.
Yes I finally understand.
The FRONT hoses screw directly onto the wheel cylinder,
The rear use the banjo block and banjo bolt into the wheel cylinders and the steel brake line threads into thefemale hole in the banjo block.
I think they all use the thin copper washers.
My 38 pickup master cylinder just connects at the back to the regular steel brake line.
There is a 3rd brake hose that goes to a T junction block at the rear axle right of the differential case to minimize vibration of the static steel lines to the rear wheel cylinders.
On my 38 pickup ghe brake light connection is on the side of the master cylinder.
Thanks again everybody.

The brake hose at the rear axle is needed so the axle can move up and down with suspension travel.

The Y brass fitting near the right front wheel is just a connector. It is not a hollow bolt fitting. There are 3 steel lines connected to it. One comes from the tee at the right side of the car about mid-frame. A very short steel line goes to a bracket where it connects to the hose for the right front wheel. The third line goes under the front of the engine to a bracket near the left front wheel. A hose connects to it.

The banjo blocks on the rear wheel cylinders each use 2 copper washers.

Thanks again.
Yes I learned there are 2 copper washers on each side of each banjo block and one on the end of each brake hose.
Appreciate your info.
Especially from a fellow 37/38 Chevrolet owner.
Trying to keep everything stock just like it was when my grandpa bought it new is a challenge.

Sounds like you are making progress.

Keep a close eye on the master cylinder reservoir when you bleed the system. I expect that your system is completely empty. So it will take at least 2 if not 3 reservoirs of fluid to get everything full. You do not want the reservoir to run dry while bleeding the system or you will need to start over.

Adjust the brakes before you bleed the system. Remember to disconnect the parking brake cables as noted in the shop manual. If you bleed the system first and then adjust the brakes the fluid level in the reservoir will drop because the pistons will move further out in the wheel cylinders.

Thanks again.
Yes I know to disconnect or back off the emergency brake connection first.
I’ve got a pressure bleeding system that is easier and more foolproof than constantly pumping the pedal.
I also have the original manual and service bulletins along with info from the VCCA magazines over the years.
I really appreciate fellows like yourself who are willing to share your experience.
My good friend Gordon Griffin who was one of the original VCCA members and who was a master mechanic for for 50 years at the Chevrolet dealership where I grew up helped me so much sharing his wisdom and experience. Usually over coffee. I learned a lot from him and heard some great stories.
I miss him. He passed away a few years ago.
By the way my name is Terry / email ferryboat5555@gmail.com.
Say hi sometime and I’ll send some pics of my original 38 project.