Hey, since it’s difficult to adjust the valves while the engine is running on my 38 (216 engine) I was wondering if I could run it til it’s hot and then turn it off and adjust them while it’s still hot? I know it has to be hot but Does it HAVE to be running ? Sure would be a lot easier.
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If you look at the graph in the repair manual that shows how the lash grows then falls during warm up you don't even need to set them hot. Once fully hot the lash is very close, if not identical, to what it was cold. In the about 15 years I've stopped setting lash hot I've never had to reset after setting it cold. Others may have different experiences. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1938/38csm156.html
Last edited by Tiny; 07/06/2103:33 PM.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
Thanks To use feeler gauge I would need them open though so I would still need to get each pair of valves on top dead center exhaust and bottom dead center for intake, correct ?
For a given cylinder you adjust both the intake and exhaust when that piston is at top dead center on the compression stroke. That is when the spark plug fires.
Even though the title says for hydraulic lifters,I use the following procedure for later 250 cu in engines shown in the 1978 Motors Manual for my 216’s. With the pointer aligned with the flywheel ball for #1 firing, all indicated valves can be adjusted to your desired clearance. With one more revolution align the ball again and the second series of valves can be adjusted. The several rotations necessary when doing one cylinder at a time are eliminated.
Rusty and tiny are correct adjust the valves of the cylinder the rotor button points to, there are several other ways to determine which valves to adjust. Tony
I apologize if I sounded like Rusty and Tiny were not correct, I only intended to offer an alternative procedure that some may prefer. Again, hope I haven’t offended anyone or added confusion to the thread. Mike
Thanks for adding what is a quicker method. I never know what level of expertise to assume for a relatively new Chat member. So I just presented the more direct approach.
To be truthful, I use the cylinder-by-cylinder approach. I find it easier to simply remember the firing order and turn the crank 120 degrees to set the next cylinder. Otherwise I need to reference a document like you posted and check off each valve as I set it. If I don’t do that I lose track of where I am in the sequence.
Chat has to taught me that there are often many ways to get the same job done. Having a choice is good!
Thank you. The firing order for my 216 is 1-5-3 6-2-4 When you say the first set and second set do you mean 1-5-3 and then 6-2-4? Not sure if you mean top dead center for # 1 also is the same for other cylinders.
Sorry for any confusion. The alternate method some people use is as follows: With #1 piston at top dead center on the compression stroke, spark plug #1 firing(the flywheel ball will be aligned with the pointer) exhaust valves 1,3,5 and intake valves 1,2,4 can be adjusted. After adjusting this first set of 6 valves, rotate the engine one revolution to bring #6 piston to top dead center on its compression stroke (again the flywheel ball will align with the pointer). At this point exhaust valves 2,4,6 and intake valves 3,5,6 can be adjusted.
