VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 1936 do I stay original

New Here with a question of modification or staying original?
Got a 1936 standard coupe all original. It sat on the farm under the trees for at least 65 years. The frame, drive train, axles and body are all good. Gabe not opened the motor yet.
Should I go with wood frame or metal?

The majority of people on this site are original oriented. That includes retaining or duplicating to as close to as manufactured condition as practical. I use practical and not possible as there can be a vastly different cost.

I much prefer the original wood body structure as it produces a much quieter product. If you are handy with woodworking tools and techniques it can be a pleasurable experience. I produce most of the wood parts for my projects and take pride the accomplishment. If you are not a wood worker there are others that produce wood kits for many years and bodies.

Dan
Welcome to Chatter.
As Chipper stated above most of us prefer to "restore" rather than "modify" though some had made minor "adjustments".
If your car is complete you have a very good candidate for restoration.
Tony

You will have an easy restoration. You will be able to save the rings and not have to do anything to them by removing spark plugs and spraying WD-40 into the cylinders. Hand crank it over with plugs out before running it. The gas line is steel. You may be able to save that too by blowing it out with air. By this time I would think you will need a new gas tank. If the tank is still good it would be wise to coat it inside to seal it. Reproduction gas tanks are also easily found. There are also parts collectors within the VCCA and look on this site, too. There are new old stock and new reproduction parts to be found. Also, interior parts and fabric... Rust inside the water jacket is the biggest problem. The holes between the head and block plug up with this rust as water flows through the system causing it to run hot. It would be wise to flush the system by using a water hose. Stuff rags around the garden hose. Reversing the flow will also help. You might get by without removing the head that a way. Be careful to watch your temp when first running. You may have to remove the head and clean it and the block of rust (or may not). Remove both inlet and outlet to radiator first. You don't want the rust to get in the radiator or if it has a heater inside remove hoses. This is a non-pressure type system. It works different from cars of today. It is made to "self level" if over filled. Adding water to proper level after a long drive of 30 miles is not unusual. Also the diaphragm in the fuel pump will have to be changed out. Not hard to do. 1930 cars are easy to work on. The regular gas we have today must be used in this car (there are those who say ethanol can be used, but it plugs up my carb. I have tried it with out success.) Driving one of these is different from a car of today. It truly takes you back in time. I find that most enjoyable. Especially on a two lane shady country road. Good luck on your restoration. Welcome to the chat.

Thanks Terrill,
Engine will be a rebuild. Engine seized but looks good. Haven't got it open yet. Interior is shot. Removed 200 gallons of pine cones. Yep 200 gallons. Floor is gone inner wood has severe issues. The drive train and frame are a joy. Axles and wheels great. Two tires held air.
DanGr

Sounds like the same thing I had. I have done it twice. Once on a '36 Standard, Town Sedan and once on a 1/2 ton Commercial Truck (different from a Standard 1/2 ton). Good luck and the guys/gals on this site will help. Look at past post on some things. Take photo before you tear into anything. Good for putting back together (ie. where did that go [6 months later]). There were 12 models that year. At the start of '36 production mechanical brakes; then switched to modern brakes. They call this Early and Late '36. If you take a look at the brake system it will tell you. There are some differences in parts as they changed some and kept other parts the same for the late model. Carburetor may or may not be different. The development of engine improvement was constant. I advise you get a copy of these two books. Chevrolet, Master Parts Price List, Six Cylinder Models, 1929-1942 and Chevrolet Six Car And Truck by Victor W. Page Both are inexpensive and will show you things you (and others) do not know. You can find and order off of the net. Both are available in reproduced editions. Once again good luck. See and click on flag envelope for a private message at top right of this page.