I am looking for my old thread regarding a leaking transmission.
Who can help me find it. If anyone has some ideas to help with the leak this old information will help.
ok, no replies. SOMETIME IN THE PAST, 6-8 MONTHS AGO, we pulled the transmission and worked on it, installing a new billy possum bearing retainer and a new, double sealed, transmission bearing. Several people told me that would solve my leaking problem. The trans still leaked. I was more than dissapointed but I didn't want to do it again. I was gong to ignore the leak. I was about to take the car home (6 weeks ago) and I didn't like the way the car sounded and I drove back to the WH. I had a puddle under the car.
Nobody I have talked to can account for a puddle of trans oil. I had been communicating with some people around the country. NOBODY understood the amount of oil. Some people guessed it could come thru the bolts holding the bell housing to the trans casing, until I told them the amount of oil.. Could it be we did something wron on the gasket between?
I do not know what year you are working on but since you posted in the 29 to 32... On 29, and 30, and several earlier years the "clutch cover" bolts directly to the transmission. So when you had everything apart there is one clutch cover to transmission bolt under the throw out arm. It is easy to miss when reassembling. Are you absolutely sure you got that bolt installed? Art
I left the bolt under the throw out arm out (described by Art) when I reassembled the transmission to clutch housing in one of my '28 Chevys. The '28 transmission has the same case as the '29-'30. Didn't take long to have a large puddle of transmission lube on the floor once the engine was running and clutch out. Pumped that lube right out that hole. Put the bolt in and the leak stopped.
That's what I am talking about, VERY easy to miss. Recently working on my 29. Got the trans, cover, and engine all bolted together. Found that spare bolt and realized where it went. Had to pull everything all apart again. Luckily it wasn't in the car yet so much easier. Art
OMG. A 1930, BY THE WAY. WE JUST FINISHED a week ago the reassembly and complete INSTALLATION in the car. I WAS certain (well, 90%)that we wouldn't have a problem as I put sealer on all the bolts. Yesterday I drove the car and as soon as I stopped a puddle, 2-3 table spoons of oil was dripping out. I WAS COMPLETELY DISILLUSIONED.
NOW I CHECK THE INFORMATION FROM CHIPPER, BEACHBUM, AND BEAR... I KNOW the hole you are talking about as I was looking at the trans/bell housing on the workbench and I felt it but forgot to follow through as it is out of sight . What I don't undrstand is WHY IT DIDN'T LEAK overnight when I had test trans oil in the trans casing.
I AM 95% CERTAIN YOU BOTH ARE CORRECT!!!!!!! PLEASE tell me how to post my pictures.
It will only show up after it is spinning. That hole is above the general oil level in the transmission, but the gears are moving oil around and it will pool to drip out and pXXs you off when you get home. If you get it apart and that bolt is in position check the end of the lower gear shafts. When slipping them into position use a little permatex in the bore to help seal that friction fit assembly.
BEACHBUM. AND OTHERS. I have done my preparation for my mechanic friend, that is, all removal of rods and brake/clutch pedals. ALREADY I can look in the trans and SEE the screw hole with threads that is EMPTY. It is indeed about 1 inch or so above the oil level. To think it has been 3 years since we first tried to solve this problem. And we did use thread sealant on all the other screws 3 weeks ago.
That should take care of that. So after all that do you have ANY hair left, or like the little imogee (sp?) a flat spot on your forehead? That's the one I have, a flat spot. Ouch that hurt, lets do it again. Art
Yes, I have 4-5 flat spots on my forehead and top.
Thursday early we started early. As the mechanic removed the clutch pedal arm I think he was surprised to see the empty hole verified. I was terribly relieved. As I had emptied the trans the day before all we had to do was clean the hole, apply sealant to the bolt and install. In 2 hrs. we had the transmission/bell housing assembly in and out. I did all the remaining install of all the brake rods, ubolts, pedals, etc. on Thursd. On Friday I did all the interior work so I could drive. Started excellent and well. Finally.
While looking in my 3 books on Friday for the torque of the wheel lugs, I ran across 2 interesting points. The book said use the choke sparingly and drain the radiator water frequently. 1. I will see if it will start w/o the choke "pull". 2. What is the wheel torque for the lug nuts? THANKS TO ALL.
It will be interesting if you can start the engine cold without using the choke. It might if you floor the accelerator once to make the accelerator pump shoot a shot of raw fuel into the manifold.
With regards to lug not torque, I will offer the same answer I did in an earlier post this week about torque specs.
Like other car manufacturers Chevy did not publish torque specs in this era. Few of any mechanics even owned a torque wrench. They developed a feel for what was “tight enough”.
If you feel compelled to use a torque wrench on these old cars, consider using the torque specs for Grade 2 hardware. There was very little if any heat treated hardware on these vehicles.
Rusty, thanks. Where is your earlier post? I will probably leave the lug bolts where I had them, at 70. Seems tight enough.
Regarding a cold start, I was surprised the orig. Chev. manual said that, also.
I make it a practice to push the starter without the key on. I was told or read that it helps bring gas back to carb. This should not be as much of an issue if I drive the car more often.
I do not know the size for wheel studs on your vehicle. On my '37 I have 7/16" fine thread studs. I can feel one of them start to yield if I try to torque to 60 ft lbs. So I use 55. That matches the recommend dry torque for a 7/16" UNF Garde 5 fastener.
