I finally picked up my 77 Impala stored at a friend's house the last 2 months as we cleaned up from Midland, MI Flood. The first thing I noticed 2 weeks ago was a terrible odor inside the car. I had not realized that water had gotten past the rear passenger side floor seal, throughout the frame, the backside of the rocker panels, and onto the brake surfaces. I found this all out gradually over the last 2 weeks.
I called Hagerty and they are working with me on my claim. I have asked for a brake inspection, power washing of the car's bottom, new carpet, and to have the inside floor of the car decontaminated. As I have spent more time looking over the bottom of the car, which was painted, I am seeing a lot of rust and feeling into frame openings a lot of loose metal rust chips. I am worried about the integrity of the frame and rocker panels, long term, if I do not stabilize the rust?
I am thinking of having the car undercoated, so I got an estimate from an undercoating company I have used before. They use a product like grease. While it flattens when applied it stays tacky, especially if the car is not a daily driver, used in all kinds of weather conditions. 20 years ago I had the wells of my trunk sprayed with it, as well as the inside of my doors, and inside my rocker panels. I think that if the product is used the bottom of the car will never be able to be painted without scraping it all off, etc...
What would you do? I do want to sell the car but am also concerned about its preservation.
Today, I rinsed off the bottom of the car and frame. I got quite a pile of rust chips on the driveway.
Still working with Hagerty on what might be options for dealing with the rust on the frame. The last picture is a pile of rust chips from spending about 45 minutes rinsing off the bottom of the car. Still looking for your recommendations on resolving the issue (paint/undercoat or both)?
That really sucks. Have thought about you and the flood quite often. And your Albums.
The best rustproofing products are spray on oil based products that are thick or foamy going on so they stay in place but still have the ability to creep into seams, frames, etc. Krown and RustCheck are a couple I like up here. There are house brand products that I like better but they are Canadian so there will be some ocal brands down you way. You can find kits with a long tube designed as a "cavity rustproofing" kit. Usually expensive but a quality product - search Amazon.
How was the car stored after it got wet? Could it breathe and have air circulation? Trapped water/moisture inside is a concern with this flooding but frame/suspension should not really be affected more than driving in a few nasty rain storms. I've left suspension parts exposed outdoors over a decade and they don't have that much rust so wonder if you can confirm something caustic in the flood water? I know it can be pretty vile.
Best of luck
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
On the 14th of September Hagerty had my car picked up after having an assessor appraise it as a total loss. I had the car insured for $12,000 which they paid. In here lies the ambiguity of insurance, and the decisions one has to make. Was this enough insurance on the vehicle if indeed it was damaged in say a front end accident where both fenders, hood, bumper, grill, radiator were damaged? The answer could be not likely. If on the other hand the 77 was a used car needing tires, a steering pump, and some carburetor work, was it possible to find a buyer for $12,000. The answer could be not likely? As one makes insurance decisions, does one look closely at all the consequences of their decisions? The answer could be not likely.
Michigan has opened up the options one can have in insurance coverage. They are giving choices to the amount of medical benefits one can chose. The old system required all to carry unlimited health benefits. With the new much cheaper policies are about to be enacted. While the new law is over 600 pages of rules most may not likely look closely at what they are losing to save a little money.
Life is about change, our decisions are constantly part of the process, and how we adapt is the big question.
Truly a sad day. They couldn't do anything with the frame for you? Tough knowing that you could do it yourself but like you said you had to make a choice.
You did prompt me to look for different insurance as I'd been putting it off. I've had some sleepless nights while pieces of my car have been in other locations, especially the body on a rotisserie. If there was an accident or theft, you could be certain the insurance company would have an issue with the car not only being apart but being spread around. I'm going to get restoration coverage as the dollars are adding up...
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
In the event of my daily driver being a "write off" the insurance will pay out the agreed value less $500. If I want to keep the wreck I can opt to buy it back and often less than $200 but they dont have a policy that covers my 38 while in the restoration or off road phase. The company the 38 is insured with will pay out the policy in the event of total loss and I can keep the wreck without buying it back. Tony
I have my '61 Corvette insured through Hagerty here in Colorado. I added an endorsement for $55 yr. that allows me to keep my car if it is ever totaled for any reason, plus they will pay me the full amount of our agreed upon value. That said, it was up to me to tell them what value I wanted to insure it for, and I sent in pictures to show the condition of the car. They may have different options in MI, but I have been very happy with them. I have the car valued at $60k, and the policy runs $465 per year. Bobalouie
