I am about to do some work on a 28 engine. How are you guys mounting the engine to a roll around stand? I have a bracket used for Ford Model T and A's (can't use on this engine) that fits in a normal stand and probable can figure something out, but it would be nice to have at least and ideas to work from. "Getting too old to crawl on the floor! :) " Thanks If you can't post a photo or two, send me a PM and I will send my email.
Great and thank you! So use to mounting Model T engines from the side, mounting from the rear didn't even cross my mind. I did some looking at the resurrecting thread in the past and again now. Thanks for that link. While I never did get it put back together, the very first engine I tore down many many years ago was a 28 so at least I have a clue what is inside. :)
If the cylinders are as good as you say, but don't want to remove metal, a ball hone works great in breaking piston ring glaze and creating a cross hatch texture for ring break-in. I replaced the 2nd groove rings in my '38 216 when during an inspection (it is a reman. '38 block) I found that cylinders 2-5 had the ring end gaps were in line. Sent a second ring to Total Seal for its dimensions and asked for a "Gapless 2nd ring". I ball honed the cylinders and the rings seated nicely.
I had put a set of these rings in a '69 396 375 hp engine for a friends drag race car many years ago. At the time of rebuild, with a leak-down tester, it had a cylinder blow-by of 6 % in all cylinders. After one pass down the quarter mile, the leak down was 3% in all cylinders.
The car weighed 2400 lbs. The elapsed time was 9.30 seconds at 145 mph. The engine was a stock bore with 11.5-1 pistons, closed chamber square port heads with mild porting / intake gasket matching and 1:88 exhaust valves added and open headers. At the time we calculated it was producing 500 hp.
The combination of ball honing and gapless ring makes for an efficient way to seal an engine.
Dave old cars are meant to be driven !! VCCA # 047832
