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There are three major items under the dash: the speedometer cluster, the light switch and the junction board. Do I pre-wire all three items and try to install them in the dash OR do I install the three items first and try to attached all the wire? What did you do?
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Joined: May 2018
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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When I re-wired my '41, I pre-wired the light switch and then let it hang there out of the way while I wired everything else from from the driver's side to the passenger side from under the dash. The light switch had the most wires attached to it so it made sense to pre-wire it first but leave it unattached and out of the way.
Why do I spend more time under my car than in the driver's seat?
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Whatever your choice, you will, at some point, believe it was the wrong one. That may be another Murphey's Law. Don't know. I wonder how it was done at the factory. Good luck with it. Charlie
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Depends how much room you have under the dash and how big you are. A combination of some prewired and some after installed in place might be necessary to keep things from twisting and wires running neatly. Getting lots of room by getting the seat out, lots of lighting under there and blankets for comfort can make the job easy and pleasant.
When I dismantled my car, I worked under the dash in an unusual fashion. I had no motor or transmission and the car was on my hoist. I then stood up, through the access hole for the transmission at a comfortable height. It was so convenient for anything under there I could not believe it. When I get to reassembly I hope I can sequence things to be able to work like this.
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
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The seats have been removed and I built a flat floor with a moving pad and cardboard for a cushion. The biggest problem I'm having is the new harness has to be formed to fit. The thickness is difficult to shape up inside the dash. So I unbolted the speedometer cluster, the light switch and the under dash junction block and let the harness down close to the floor. I sorted out the wires so I can visualize where they will end up and started to shape the harness. Now I will have to wait a couple of days. I scratched the speedometer bezel going in or out. The first coat is drying and tomorrow, hopefully, the second coat will go on. Seams like I'm always backing up instead of going forward.
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Good advice here. I agree with Charlie that what ever approach you use there are limitations.
In addition to removing the seat and having good padding I found the best tool I had was patience. Like playing pool, you have to think a few shots/steps ahead. Don't get in a hurry and take whatever breaks you need.
Rusty
VCCA #44680
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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I'm not trying to be a smart*** but I have a simple question - have you removed the access panel to the back of the instrument panel that's under the voltage regulator on the firewall?
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Joined: Mar 2017
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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I find that no matter what approach you take, your glasses will always be a pain in the rear! Too close to focus, smudged, fall off or sideways,etc. Never just right!
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...your glasses will always be a pain in the rear! I agree. For close up work, I wear two pairs of glasses; my prescription and a cheap pair of reading glasses on top. That let's me see clearly up close. Dean
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
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Kaygee, yes I have. BUT, I put it back temporarily with a couple of clutch head screws. It holds the wire harness in place, like a third hand, so I can bend, shape and configure the harness under the dash. At some point, I will remove the cover and use that access point if need be.
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Joined: Mar 2017
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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I agree. For close up work, I wear two pairs of glasses; my prescription and a cheap pair of reading glasses on top. That let's me see clearly up close.
Dean[/quote] Ahhh yes,Hillbilly bifocals. I use them regularly!
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