It was mounted on a spare engine I have that came out of my "white" '37 I had some years ago. I remember it had a regulator attached to it so I doubt it was original. Any info would be appreciated.
Dave old cars are meant to be driven !! VCCA # 047832
I have (2) generators, the first tag # is 1102667 8341. The other is the one I posted above.
I had found an on-line reprint of a parts/application book which listed the -667 generator along with the p/n. for the required regulator. But I could not find the one I asked about. Might you know the p/n for the regulator?
As funds allow, I plan to have both rebuilt.
Dave old cars are meant to be driven !! VCCA # 047832
1102667 was a number for 1940-1948 Later it was 1102737. than later combined with the 1949-1951 generator and had two more numbersThe original number of the 35 amp volt reg was 1118201 and changed to 1118301 and was used from 1940-1951 with the standard 35 amp generator.
Jonda "That was amazing. How does anyone accumulate that much knowledge?" I would guess Gene has a massive library and does nothing else but research Chevrolet facts. Thank you Gene Tony
Here I am again..... Prior to my June 12th trip to Rye Beach, N.H., I was having trouble with the generator charging. I tried moving the 3rd brush and was able to get something but nothing that would move the amp meter needle to the + side, even with the rpm's at 1800.
I kept telling myself , "its a simple system, it should be working. " I knew the generator worked because the guy showed me the out-put he set it to, 7.25, on his test bench. I took off the new cut-out switch and looked at the points and they were clean, but the gap seemed excessive. I checked a used back up switch I keep in the car and found the gap to be much tighter. The new one measured .022, the used one measured .008.
I put the used one on and voila, the amp meter indicated a + charge rate at 1000 rpm. I set the 3rd brush to show approximately 4 amp charge during the day. So my guess is the magnetic field was not strong enough to pull the points closed to allow for a proper charge rate on the new cut-out switch.
Took a personal day and went to Rye Beach, 8 miles into the trip and the generator reared its ugly head again, it started making noise and the amp meter needle started dancing again. I was able to get it home and discovered the rear bushing was again, wiped out. Disassembled the entire generator to check the front bearing but it rolls smoothly so I assume it is okay. My guess is the armature is bent. The generator guy wants to make this right, so is checking his stock for another armature. which will be great as I can keep the original set up, but .......
I have a new plan......
Because I drive this car a lot, I think I'm going to convert to a 2 brush generator and add a voltage regulator as I tend to get caught out after dark. I know I can preset a point on the 3 brush and mark it so as to adjust to that point, but I think I would like the convenience of not doing that. In a P.M., I spoke with Gene about the generator I want to use and the matching voltage regulator ( Gen. # 1102710 / v. reg. #1118201). Because this generator is a little longer ( as is the mounting bracket bolted to it) than the original, I will have to slot the mounting bracket to align the pulley with the crank and water pump.
Question....
Are there any wiring issues that I would need to address as a part of this switch to a regulated system??
Last edited by dfd37chev; 06/16/1909:42 PM. Reason: supplied wrong info- front bearing not bushing
Dave old cars are meant to be driven !! VCCA # 047832
10 gauge wire runs from A terminal on generator to generator terminal on regulator.. 14 gauge wire from gemerator field terminal to field terminal on regulator. 10 Ga wire from battery terminal on regulator to incoming side of ammeter - that wire probably already exists.
Oe of the three regulator mounting bolts has a ground tab behind and that tab must ground to firewall metal.
Armature from the original generator had a .010 run-out at the rear bushing end. I guess that was enough to oblong the bushing. The Gen. Guy is going to check his "stock" for another armature for it.
As for the -710 generator, it didn't work nor did the -301 regulator. He gave me a reconditioned 2 brush and regulator to match which, I plan to install this week. I left him the -0710 as a core and plan to compensate him for it when I pick up the original. I told him I wanted to convert anyway, but he said he wanted to make things right, which to me, he is going a little over board.
As I don't want to drill holes in the firewall, I have to figure out how I will mount the regulator.
Should be back on the road by the end of the week.
Dave old cars are meant to be driven !! VCCA # 047832
I have a couple of oddball generators that do not fit anything I own. I'll check to see if I can identify and if it's anything you can use it's yours if you want.
This measures 9-5/8" overall . It is a three brush generator but has no external method for adjusting the brush. The pulley is 3-1/2" diameter with a 9/16" groove and measures 1-3/4" thick. When I look in my parts book (1955) there are 29 generators listed that were used from 1940-1955. Only show three brush holder arms used on 34-36 model DA,EA.ED,FA,FD, 37-39 ALL . Could not find a compatible pulley listing.
The three brush generator only had a cut-out through 1936. Amp are controled by adjusting the third brush. In 1938 and 1939 for cars only they used a voltage contorl. Did not regulate the actual voltage, just combined a cut-out and amp regulator. In 1940 every thing got a 2 brush generator and a regulator that contained a cut-out, voltage control and amp control.
