VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc inner tubes

are all of today's inner tubes created equal?..are some brands better than others?..are all inner tubes multi-size, e.g. 550/600/650-16?..

epi

All inner tubes are multi-size today.I have had some problems with tubes becoming porous after a period of time.Don't recall what brands were used because none are name branded.The proper mounting is important. Fill tube with just enough air to round it out when installing to prevent tube from developing "folds".After tire is mounted and inflated, deflate and inflate again for the same reason.

And I always go to a shop that specializes in truck tires for mounting since these guys are used to dealing with tube-type tires. The kids at Wally World just don't know what they're doing.

If you want something done right...Do it your self! and when doing inner tubes and tube flaps use a lot of baby powder all on the inside of the tire, outside of the tube and flap, you don't want diaper rash on these vintage jobs!

chev nut & mrmack,

thanks for the advice...you both seem to be suggesting that I should dismount & mount my own tires & tubes...is this reasonably easy to do...years ago, I did regular tubeless type with basic tools (no mounting machine) and this was a struggle, to say the least...is it comparable to motorcycle tires in terms of bead strength?..

brjr51,

thanks also...if I do have someone do them, I'll take them to the fellow who does all of our equipment & turf vehicle (tube-type) tires...

epi

The Jan. '31 "Chevrolet Service News" Bulletin has an excellent article with photos about the different ways the owner can mount/dismount his own tires. I think there is information in the owner's manuel also. I was very impressed with the reproduction quality of the "...Service News" bulletins, top notch work.

Thanks for the tips, guys. The deflation and reflation twice; I hadn't thought about, makes sense.

The mounting of inner tube in tires changed completely after WWII.The natural rubber tubes used before the war were very thin and easy to work with.The synthetic rubber tubes used after the war are thick and tend to fold more easily.The step I ommited is that after deflating it was recommended to bounce the tire to position the tube better and then reinflate.The natural rubber tube required checking pressure every week and the synthetic every month was sufficent as they held air better

Thought I would pass on a bit of information I found on another DF on mounting times without damage to the painted rim. :confused: :confused:
I don't know of this works, but thought it was interesting.

Could someone explain the 'trashbag method' of mounting tires? Even if only briefly it would be appreciated.
'A' Youngster

OK! Here is one way....sure there are others.
On a suitable work space, place the wheel with back side down.
Cover the wheel with a 20/30 gal garbage can liner.
Place the tire over the liner with the backside down.
Push the tire down on to the wheel with your hands.
Using your fingers and thumbs work the bead of the tire over the rim. (Use your feet if you hands are not strong enough)
When the rear bead is in place, pull the liner out.
Put a slight amount of air in the tube. Put it in the tire.
Put the valve stem in place.
Put the liner back into the tire. It should be covering the wheel and inside the tire.
Using the same method as above, work the outside bead of the tire on to the rim. Pull the liner out of the tire.
Fill the tire with about 40 pds air. Bounce the tire on the floor to help seat the tube. Let out all the air.
Refill it to 35psi and mount it on the car. No scratches. No tool marks. No mess.
Have fun!
Paul

One point worth mentioning: The bag is used as out of the box, so that two layers of plastic are between the tire and wheel. The layers slide against each other easier than the other surfaces.

Anyone tried this method?

31 chevy guy,

this seems like a reasonable method, using the trash liner as a "lubricant" to reduce friction...I know I've stepped on fresh, folded trash bags and taken quite a slip!..

this method also suggests that the tire bead slips over the rim pretty easily, since no prying tools are apparently necessary, unlike tubeless-type tires...

epi

Nobody has mentioned anything about breaking the bead which is usually quite a chore when the tire has been assembled for some time. Has anybody used pressure from a bumper jack to do this ?

Breaking the bead on older Chevrolet rims was easy.The Chrysler prodcts with there safty rim wheels was a real pain.All modern cars use the "safty rim" principal and are difficult.I have used a jack but purchased a "heavy duty" bead breaker from J C Whitney a few years ago and it works great.

By "older" I was thinking of one piece rims.Older is a relative term I guess.--Like I'm an older person-but not as old as dirt

Chev Nut,
I am finding the term "older person" to have a different meaning to me than it did years ago! Now my kids have a different understanding of those wordsthan me. Give them a few decades and they will understand my way of thinking.

Sorry about not splaining what I meant about the baby powder it keeps the tube and flap and tire from sticking together whilst it is being assembled and pressured up, and a later disassembly, also I consider an antique tire to be one that fits a clincher rim or any of the various "Detachable rims"which almost require a rim spreader tool...

Those with rimmed wheels of the drop-center type are a wheel of a different flavor, yes as Chevy Nut relayed the Mopar Safety rims were buggers to break the bead, I was a 210# teenager at 14 workin' in a "fillin' station" and could break most beads with my brogan shoe heels and a healthy bounce, but my Dad's 48 DeSoto (760X15) six-ply tires, he naturally brought them to my place of business to get his discount, required the bumper jack approach. Now days I find that an inexpensive Harbor Freight portable manual tire machine works wonders when bolted to a concrete pad, and costs less than $80 I have seen them for as low as $50, don't get the one for ATV or small diameter tires but the one for "Up to 16" tires.



PS Johnny, You need to remember "Use the proper tool for the job at hand" I did those truck tires at the "fillin' station on the dirt with a sledge hammer and a couple of special tools and it was the most nasty gruelling job I ever had, after working there for three months in a summer vacation, I vowed never to work at or own such an establishment, now I do it as a hobby...go figure....( I have a 1957 Chevrolet C 6500)