VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 '33 Throwout bearing adjutment location?

I do not see any apparent adjustment for TO bearing clearance in the linkage to the pedal, it it adjusted via the ball pivot stud height under the flywheel cover?

The '34 online manual i have access to doesn't seem to cover it under Clutch.

Thanks,
Doug

OK, some body has to have an answer to this.

The only place I can find to adjust this is via the ball pivot stud height.

My TO bearing was tight against the pressure plate collar, I was able to make that slightly loose by lowering the ball height about 3/8 to 1/2 turn. I was also able to get some oil in the TO bearing oiler tube from under neath by creative tubular engineering.

The problem i have now is, is that when the brass pivot ball nut it turned, the threaded stud through the bell also turns, the two will not move separately, and i can't get a 7/8" open end wrench up on the out side of the stud to get any real leverage.

Suggestions?

Please confirm this is how adjustment is done,a nd how much looseness should be between the PP collar and the carbon TO bearing. 1/16"? 1/32? , or just free pedal feel of ~1"?

Doug

I think if you have the correct free play then you should NOT be tight against the pressure plate collar. I am not sure if the pivot ball is meant to be adjusted so perhaps someone can answer that. The T/O bearing oiler tube should be accessible from the top by removing the floor board and the cover plate on the flywheel housing. I believe it is similar to the 32 but if I am incorrect I am sure someone will point it out.

Here is what it has to say about adjusting the clutch on a 1933 Master in the 1933 Chevrolet repair manual. I would highly recommend this manual to anyone who owns a 1933 Chevrolet Master or Standard, includes cars and trucks.

Reprints of the manual is available on ebay for approximately $25: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Best-Repair-Shop-Manual-for-1933-Chevrolet-Car-Pickup-and-Truck-33-Chevy/161643497857?fits=Year%3A1933%7CMake%3AChevrolet&epid=606591614&hash=item25a2b40981:g:RpwAAOSwq9NZ1Hec

I am attaching a scan of the 1933 Master clutch adjusting procedure. I hope it is readable after importing to the VCCA forum.

As a reference, I believe the Stop light switch is pictured in the graphic along the right side midway from top to bottom.

If you need the procedure for a Standard let me know and I will scan that procedure.

Thank you!

I have a manual on order as of last week, it won't be here for few days though.

I saw that bolt and nut, but was unsure if it had to do with the pedal stop at 1/2" off the floor.
Doug

That is taken care of, now.
I will say the manual isn't well written, they use engage and disengage interchangeably,and the instructions are tad confusing, with not everything being labeled on the drawing, so you need to figure some stuff out, but it is done, and the TO bearing is not tight anymore, maybe .030" loose of the clutch collar.
Doug

Thanks for attaching the scan of the 33 manual. I need to adjust the clutch on my 34 Standard coupe, the 34 manual shows a very simple adjuster built into the fork actuator rod but my car does not have that. The linkage on my car looks like your PDF which my 34 manual shows as for a 1 1/2 ton truck! The adjuster bolt is not accessable unless I remove the floorboard which I intend to do.
I currently have between 1 1/2" and 2" freeplay and the clutch engagement is near the top of the travel. If I adjust it to 1" freeplay will that change the engagement point closer to the middle of travel where I would like it to be?

My guess is no. That should make it engage higher, not lower. There could be, and probably are other issues.

I would start by fixing any looseness in the pivots. I can see one that is REALLY bad in your first picture, near the left. So, fix anything like that you find, and then adjust it according to the manual (does Vila's post match your car?). See what you have then.

Engagement too high USUALLY means a worn out clutch, but I would take care of the obvious things first (see above). If tightening up and adjusting the linkage doesn't fix it, see if the pivot ball is adjustable. On most cars the clutch fork needs to be leaned back (at the throwout bearing) when at rest and then go past flat and lean forward with the pedal down. If the fork angle is wrong, everything will be screwy. If you change the angle you will need to readjust the pedal and linkage. The book may have something in another section (clutch?).

As a clutch wears out, the release fingers (or release plate) gets higher, screwing up the fork angle a little. Also if the disc has worn thin, it takes less movement to release. It could be bad, but don't assume it is until you have the linkage right.

The throwout bearing MIGHT be oilable. Check the book and do it if you can. If you can see in the bellhousing, maybe you can also tell if it is worn out. There are probably grooves in the carbon to serve as wear indicators (check the book).

Thanks Bloo. I am really hoping this is something that I can improve without a major replacement job. I saw that one linkage issue and will look into correcting it I will also oil the throwout bearing when I have the floorboard out.

Help me a little more with understanding clutch engagement. I feel the clutch engage fairly high in the range of pedal travel but it does fully engage and it is not slipping. If I do not change or adjust anything and keep driving, will the clutch engagement point move higher or lower in the range of travel as it wears? I have heard conflicting stories on other forums but need to know for my specific 34 Chevy. Thanks.

As the clutch wears down the peddle will grab higher.

With the help of Dave Sylvain I have determined that I most likely have 1933 clutch linkage on this car since it was a very early 34 build. Does anyone know a source for a photo or illustration showing detail for the flat metal link between the throwout fork and linkage shown in this photo? Perhaps a parts catalog page? It would be a big help to know what that part SHOULD look like before I remove it and attempt to modify it. Thanks!