VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc Radiator and Engine Bucket Flush

I recently found this method online and tried it yesterday. The results were awesome:

This flush needs to be done with the thermostat removed. The upper hose needs to be removed at the radiator and extended into a 5 gallon bucket i.e. a long hose witout water leaks. Inside the bucket place a sump or return pump. (I used a submersible pump for draining water off my pool cover) The pump will direct the flush water back into the top of the radiator. The return pump is situated about 4" from the bottom of the bucket to accomodate particulate settling at the bottom of the bucket. Avoiding water leaks with the two hoses will reduce the mess and create more flow as the system water circulates.
First I drove my car for several hours using a non acid Prestone flush in my system.
Then I located two hoses I could use. One 6' hose the same inside diameter as my top rad hose. Then I cut 6' off the female side of my garden hose which screwed on to the pool cover pump. I kinked this hose enough to regulate the flow going into the radiator so it didn't flow over.
Don't drain the system.
Plug in pump and regulate the circulation flow so you don't have leaks to mess up your pretty engine bay. I made a mess.
Keep hoses clear of your fan so you can start your car for a few minutes each half hour or so. Rev it up and down to increase and decrease flow to enhance aggitation.
Monitor fluid level in bucket at all times.
After you feel she has had enough, take a second clean bucket fill it with clean water from your house spigot and place the pump into the clean water bucket adjusting the flow to maintain a constant level witout overflowing or letting it empty. The extended upper radiator hose should be directed elsewhere to be properly discarded.
Run it until water runs clear through your system.
Shut it all down, and drain the system from the petcock on the bottom of your radiator.
Close petcock, repace thermostat, upper hose and fill with your 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water.
You will be amazed how will this works. It's a pain to set up the first time and it took me about 3 hours to do. But I am extremely happy with the results. It supposedly removes electrolysis, oil emulsification, aluminum oxide and rust.
Those of you with aluminum replacement radiators should concern yourself with brass, copper and/or other metal cross contamination which will prematurely disintegrate your new radiator.
This worked for me and I wanted to share in hopes of helping someone else keep their car from overheating. I am not responsible for how you use this information. Happy motoring!

WISEBRI24.................to avoid electrolysis in the cooling system you would need to use an aluminum compatible antifreeze .. I know I put it in my coupe 4-5 years ago because of aluminum water pump, intake and cylinder heads. not sure what colour it was.............green or orange colour,. The jug said aluminum compatible.

mike lynch

The big benefit here for me was the block and head cleansing.

You’ve got a pressurized, closed loop cooling system in an automobile.
There are dissimilar metals within the engine/cooling system. We've got a cast iron engine block with an aluminum radiator. They’re not in contact with one another but they’re in a pressurized closed loop system full of electrolyte. Oh, that electrolyte (antifreeze) that we’ve all taken for granted for so long. Each OEM has specific antifreeze that it uses to inhibit corrosion.