I replaced the generator on my 37 but I'm not sure about the wiring. It's a bit different from the original. In the attached photo you'll see a clip and screw that have been attached with a plastic tie. The plastic tie was added so it wouldn't get lost by the guy who removed the generator and he doesn't recall how it was attached originally.
Can someone tell me how the clip and screw are attached to the generator?
So happy to have this forum and I'll much appreciate any help that can be provided. I need to get by Chevy back on the road.
Rusty 37, your generator is the same as my original generator. I need to figure out where the other wire goes. I have a mechanic who will know (I hope).
I've attached another photo with better detail, I hope. This is not the original generator and it does not have the same post that the wire shown here would attach to. Instead, the attached photo has this clip and attached screw. I guess that the clip/screw were placed in this wire loop just so it wouldn't get lost. The question is what does this clip attach to?
The last photo was a lot better. The clip does not go under the dash as stated above. The clip actually goes inside of the end frame of the generator to hold the adjustable third brush arm in place once the third brush is set for the correct generator output. The screw goes through the end frame and threads into the clip on the inside of the generator.
From the photo your generator appears to be an earlier version.......possibly a 943 J. What is the model number that is on the Delco-Remy tag?
I've attached two photos of the generator after opening it up. I'm not sure how the clip and wire are to attach to this. And for that matter, how you adjust to set the amps.
The hole that is next to the flippy oiler on the generator end frame is where the machine screw goes to hold the adjustable third brush and the clip in place. The clip goes inside of the end frame with the two "tits" face down against the little cast embossing that is in the end frame and the flat part of the clip rests against the third brush arm so that the third brush can't move after it is adjusted and the machine screw is tightened.
The third brush shown in the photo is way too close to the main brush. There should be approx. four comm. bars (those are the bars on the armature commutator) between the third brush and the main brush for the correct output. Moving the third brush towards the engine lowers the generator output and moving the third brush towards the fender increases the generator output. After the generator output is set, then tighten down the machine screw that is threaded into the clip on the inside of the generator so that the third brush can't move.
The wire on the main brush goes through the hole in the generator housing and the wire attaches to the "GEN" terminal on the cut-out.
Now I have another issue. The car has been sitting for 3 months. I've charged the battery and the engine turns over but doesn't fire. Never had that problem before and I don't know how to check this. I've been looking through chats to see if there's general guidance on whether there's spark or whether its getting gas, but haven't found anything.
Any help will be much appreciated. I wish I'd taken auto shop in school. Dwayne
I can't count the number of times I have written this. First determine if you have spark. Remove the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap. Take off distributor cap and rotor. Turn on the ignition switch. Open and close points while holding the end of the coil wire 1/4"-1/2" from a good ground. If the points are open then use a screwdriver to short across the points while holding coil wire near a ground. You should get a spark each time you open and close the points (or short across them). It should "snap". If it doesn't "snap" then check all connections. Also check to see if you get better spark by shorting across points versus open and closing them. If so clean the points. You can put a piece of paper or plastic between points if they are closed to do the check. If you don't get a spark then check wiring connections. If they are okay, remove the positive wire from the coil. Turn on the ignition switch. Quickly strike the end of the wire against a ground (bolt or screw on engine block). Get a spark, good. No spark check ignition switch or wiring back to the battery. If you have power to the coil but no spark from the coil wire then make sure the coil wire is seated in the coil. Also check wiring to condenser, distributor, spark plugs, etc. If you have spark to the distributor you likely will have spark at the plugs.
If you have "snappy" spark from the coil wire put distributor rotor and cap back on. Insert coil wire. Try to start the engine. If it doesn't start and you have a downdraft carburetor take off the air cleaner and operate the throttle linkage while looking down the throat. Do you see a squirt of gas from the accelerator pump? If not you may not have gas in the carburetor. Give a good squirt of carburetor cleaner into the carburetor and try to start the engine. It should at least fire for a short time but may not stay running. If that is the case then check the fuel system to be sure you have enough gas in the tank, fuel pump is working, etc.
If you get through these steps and it still won't run come back for more help. Be sure to tell us what you did and what you found.
I can't count the number of times I have written this. First determine if you have spark...
Hi Chipper,
Your above response is one that does not take in the importance of all past post on a topic and how we all should be accessing them. We need to ask all our members to familiarize themselves with the use of our site's SEARCH PROCESS, and also refamiliarize ourselves with our own old past responses to see if they need to be updated, especially for correctness and clarity. Your fine posts go back to 2001. How many current users of our resource are aware of how to access all this accumulated knowledge? A lot of us are winding down are ability to provide assistance to our chat site and I assume some of our regular posters have even died. Do we want our site to no longer be a strong resource for future generations?
I think we all are concerned with the usage numbers of our site and whether the VCCA might decide it is an expensive resource that it is no longer relevant to our membership. I can not imagine restoring, maintaining, or regularly driving one of our old vehicles without a strong support system like our chat site. It is already very rare to see an old car being driven in our communities that is not a hotrod.
Thanks Chipper for everyone of your posts, and best wishes always , Mike
