VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Rear axle problem

The gasket between the oil catcher and rear axle flange on my 39 MDSS has disintegrated resulting in loose wheel studs which my service manual says is a safety issue. My plan of attack is to fish out the remaining bits of gasket then inject some thick gasket cement in the gap then re-peen the wheel studs. Any better ideas out there?

Hi Colin,

I think the primary purpose of the gasket is to keep oil from leaking between the two metal surfaces (check your manual). I don't see the deterioration of the seal as causing the looseness.

I would remove a few of the loose lug nut studs to determine where the wear is that has caused them to loosen, are the studs the problem or the axle itself?


Chevs of the 40's should have the gasket and the lug nuts.

Lug Nuts

Brake Drum Gasket

The same gasket (5.819) is used between the oil shield/deflector and the axle as well as between the brake drum and the axle. I am not sure if we emphasis enough the use of this gasket between the axle and drum?

It maybe best to replace the gasket, studs and even the rear seal.

Good luck, Mike

The looseness in the studs is caused by the missing deflector gasket letting the wheel studs pull the deflector closer to the axle flange when the wheel is tightened. This of course lets the peened portion of the stud pull out of the flange on the wheel side and the stud is no longer locked. I was looking for a lazy mans way of a quick fix (Because I am lazy!) but I guess I'll do it properly. OK out with the angle grinder!
Thanks all

Hi Collin,

Your answer seems confusing. I find it hard to believe that a paper gasket could be causing your stud problems. I'll check, today, a few of my axles to see what you might be eluding to. You may have stretched studs or a damaged axle? Could someone have over tightened the lug nuts or not tightened them enough, causing your problem?

The studs are pressed into the axle so can be driven out or pressed out. No grinding, cutting, or drilling

Thanks, Mike

Are they Left Hand Thread? I have a drivers side axle that the wheel studs are loose/worn as people have been unaware of the left hand thread on the drivers side on Canadian cars.
Maybe NZ is the same?

A few pictures to make sure we are talking about the same problem.

Rear Axle

Good luck, Mike

Doesn't the peening process make the studs very difficult to remove? I have a pair of 37 axles shafts and I tried to see if I could budge the studs with a heavy lead hammer and a nut for thread protection. I couldn't budge them.

Thats because its a lead hammer. Try a brass hammer and they will move. The lead has no shock. a steel hammer would be better.

Mike you may be right about the studs being pressed in. Page 95 of the service manual shows the studs being peened and I assumed they were also peened in the factory. I'll have a close look with a big hammer in hand.
Cheers

I seriously doubt that the gasket between the axle/wheel flange and the light shield behind it would make much difference as each time the lug nuts are tightened they will take up any slack.
Tony

I don't like to hammer on anything so I would recommend figuring out how to use a large bench vise to do the work for you. Use an old socket that fits over the oil shield side of the stud. To keep from compressing the shield on its edge grind the side of the socket that would contact the edge. I think you are looking at pressing the stud only about 1/4 of an inch to loosen it?

By using this method you lesson the risk of damaging the axle. You can modify this method to drive the studs back in with a socket that slides over the threaded end of the stud.

If you do not have a big enough bench vise then I would take the axle to a machine shop and have them remove the studs or have them tighten any loose ones. One of the pictures shows how I bent the lip of the oil shield by not grinding down the edge of the 3/4" socket.

More rear axle pictures


Good luck, Mike

P.S. I agree with Tony if the torque on the nut is sufficient. What if the nut torque is 75 pounds and it takes 125 pounds to seat a stud?

Thanks for the pictures Mike. It appears it is just the serrations that are peened into the countersink. A Good shove should overcome that all right.Cheers

There is a tool called a joint/Ball joint remover. It looks like a giant heavy U clamp. You could use one of those to remove and install a stud.