Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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DMelton Offline OP
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No experience with old 6V systems.

With the plugs out and new battery, the motors cranks over fine. it will barely (maybe once) turn over with the plugs in. Ignition off.

The ground strap looks suspect as it is half rotted away at the battery end, so i am getting two new cables in. Both cable terminals were cleaned prior to install of the new battery.

I hope its just the cables or bad ground. The starter was evidently rebuilt in 2009 according to the paperwork that came with the car.

Doug

Last edited by DMelton; 10/17/17 06:11 PM.
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New cables of the proper diameter mounted to clean contacts MAY OR SHOULD help.


Gene Schneider
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You can order the original like web ground cable from Chevys of the 40's and other web sites. That was the same problem I faced when I got my old '36's. It really made a big difference.

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DMelton Offline OP
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Two new proper cables are arriving tomorrow from the Filling Station. We shall see...

Doug

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DMelton Offline OP
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New cables didn't help. Cleaning the starter push button contacts didn't help. Crap.

Gonna hook jumpers directly to starter frame and see if it could possibly be ground issue between the battery cable connected to the transmission, and starter. I doubt it though.

Looks like the starter will be coming out.

What is irritating is the starter was supposedly, according to the paperwork that came with the car, rebuilt less than 10 miles (9 years) ago.

Of course, there is probably a reason they rebuilt the starter....and the problem wasn't fixed.

Doug

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DMelton Offline OP
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Another thing i am going to try, is remove the push button switch and connect a jumper cable directly to teh copper contact on top of the starter, that will verify if it is or isn't the Starterator switch.

Doug

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Sounds like a bushing problem. I replaced the bushings in the ends of my starter on the 1936, when I bought it due to a dragging problem. Only I could not get a 1936 kit (this was before the days of computers). I used a 1937 kit. It was really tight. It would not turn over properly. Later, I found the proper kit and re-built again. Problem solved.

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Starterator switch?....The same switch is used on top of the starter, straterator or not.


Gene Schneider
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DMelton Offline OP
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If it doesn't have the starterator linkage, how is the switch operated? Something has to push the button in. Is there another foot operated lever on other years that actuates it if it doesn't have the throttle operated mechanism?

Doug

Originally Posted by Chev Nut
Starterator switch?....The same switch is used on top of the starter, straterator or not.

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A foot operated spring loaded bellcrank that is mounted on the flywheel bell housing.


Steve D
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Another issue is not all 6 Volt car batteries are not created equal.

I can't remember where I got the previous 6V battery for my 1933 Master, but the car always cranked over slow. I believe I got the battery at AutoZone, but not sure.

The last 6V battery I got was a Duracell from Batteries Plus Bulbs and when I was looking for a battery I went with the none with the highest specs. This battery cranks the engine over much faster than the last battery I had.

Had the same issue with my riding mower.


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DMelton Offline OP
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I notice the original battery specs were something like 450 CCA. I think.

The one I have is maybe 600-650 CCA. Which does turn teh motor over now that i went through the starter. It still cranks a little slow when the motor is hot, though. It maybe that the motor is still tight from its rebuild 100-200 miles ago.

I see that skinny Optima battery is advertised at 850 CCA.

Does amps influence starter performance, of is voltage more of a factor?

Doug

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Hot starters or any motor is less efficient. When your car is hot it should start right on the first few crank-overs or you may have other things to look at also. Aught to 2 aught (0-00) battery cables are needed on 6 volt systems also.


J Franklin
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It is not speed in cranking over that counts. It is how well you are tuned up. It should fire on the second revolution sound. And it should take no more than 4 to 6 total revolution sounds to start. Other than that your off somewhere. It is kind of like standing out there with a crank in your hand and doing it manually. Un-like modern engines that must whirl around vigorously to run these depended on slow but correct timing start. Two things make these old gals start: Gas and correct spark.

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Using a digital multimeter ( available from Harbor Freight for
about $6.00) connect the meter to the battery and read voltage;
a fully charged battery should read between 6.1 and 6.3 volts.
Now engage the starter and watch the meter; it should not fall
below about 4.8 volts while cranking. If it falls lower than
that, it indicates either a weak battery or too high starter
draw! After checking and cleaning the power and ground cables,and problem persists, remove the starter with the switch
and send to a reliable rebuilder! With a 6 volt system, there
is little room for error! No tolerance for resistance!


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DMelton Offline OP
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The more I drive the car, the better it starts. It even cranks reasonably fast, hot, now.

I have put a bit over 80 miles on the car; I believe that the motor now has 125 miles since the motor was rebuilt based on a receipt I found in the paperwork last week, so the motor is just getting broken in.

The motor DID seem a little tight for small 6 banger when i was turning it over with the plugs out to check timing, when i first got the car.

I should probably think about changing the oil pretty soon if it is breaking in, as there is no filter.

Doug

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Make sure to use 10W30 oil. That is what most of us use.


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