VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 194 oil pressure

hi guys...194 engine oil pressure questions....should some type of pressure show on an oil pressure tester while cranking over engine with the starter?...I have hooked up starter to 12 volts to just see if any oil pressure shows...but I haven't turned it over yet...also...motor is in vehicle...1931 chev cabriolet btw...been sitting for quite some time...would it be a good idea before I do this test to drop oil pan and inspect pump?...what should I look for?...there is oil in it btw..i will drain oil and change when I get to that point..also..I've heard that removing distributor and priming oil pump would be a good idea...if so...what type of shaft or slotted tool should i use to do this procedure and how is this performed...any help of course is greatly appreciated....Cheers

Jim
'31 Chev Cabriolet

6v system, unless it was changed, 12v will probably fry something/ everything.

i remove my distributor and made a priming tool, just a piece of scrap ss , the guy before me made one out of a dowel rod. i copied the end of the dist shaft.the other end i had turned to meet my 12v cordless drill

Priming Tool 1
Priming Tool Drive End
Priming Tool Pump End

Priming Tool In Engine 1
Priming Tool in Engine 2

Hello JT1969,
I do not think that you would get an oil pressure reading using the starter unless all the spark plugs are removed. Cranking the engine under compression is not fast enough for the pump to build up pressure. Also, will your starter motor stand up to long periods of cranking. Before you remove the distributor for priming the oil pump, assuming that your timing is set correctly, mark the distributor base and engine block and note at what clock position the rotor is pointing so you'll be able to return everything back the same when done. You may have to rotate the oil pump drive a few times to find the right position for the distributor shaft to drop into position with the rotor pointing correctly.

You may find this older post useful:
Starting a Long-idled old Chevy


All the Best, Chip

I wouldn't bother removing the distributor. If it were mine I would remove the spark plugs and spin it over with the starter. This should bring up oil pressure in a few seconds. You could squirt a little Marvel Mysery Oil or ATF in each cylinder and let sit over night so it doesn't blow out) for cylinder wall lubrication.
Spinning over free it should produce at least 10 pounds of prssure with cold oil.
Pressure is not too important in that engine as only the center main bearing gets full pressure.

Remove the oil distributor, squirt oil directly into the pump, replace oil distributor.

If you run the 6 volt starter on 12 volts, crank over the engine for about 10 to 15 seconds at a time only. Do not constantly run the starter on 12 volts or you will damage the 6 volt starter.

The main reason I remove the distributor and run the pump with a shaft is to fill the troughs up with oil. The minute you turn the motor over the dippers are picking up oil from the full troughs. Don't have a scientific reason, just seems logical to do it that way. Plus it pumps oil up to the valve train when you run the drill for at least 5 minutes. I think I did my fresh motor for ten and watched all the oil come out of the valve train and run back down into the base. I had the valve cover off when I did it. It's a good visual to see the oil flow. No starter turning, no battery drain and will allow you to re-time it to 18dtc when dropping the distributor back in if it isn't already there.

His engine has not been apart so the rod roughs would be full.
Removing the distributor and squirting oil at the pump....oil can not enter that way.

thanx a bunch everybody...the distributor is not timed...It was just set in there from previous owner...any feedback on the second part of the post?...about the oil pan removal idea?...is that necessary?...checking the oil pump screen for blockage?

Jim

oh and btw..rocker cover is off and absolutely no sludge whatsoever is present...very clean valvetrain also side cover is removed and no sludge buildup is present there as well..very clean..both top cover and side cover gaskets of course were brittle and broke apart upon removal...I have both new gaskets...no leaks either...I have no history on this engine...my dad handed the car down to me and the previous owner was unsure if engine was rebuilt...he doesn't remember who the previous owner he got the car from was...so..it looks to me that this motor has been apart at some point...not too sure about the internals...so far...very clean..which may or may not mean anything...I think its a good sign anyhow...very good compression too on all cylinders...wet and dry

Jim

Given your description I would remove the distributor and turn the oil pump with slotted rod and electric drill for several minutes. Why take a chance of lack of lubrication on the valve train, mains and rods by turning it over with no oiling until the pump kicks in.

Since you have no history on the engine, I would definitely remove the oil pan and check the oil pump screen since the oil pump is the heart of the engine.

...through OIL distributor, not ignition distributor.
It works for me every time.

thanx for your reply...im a lil foggy on the oil distributor/ignition distribiutor thing...what do you mean by oil distributor?...the pump itself?...from underneath via the pump screen?...

Jim

This is basically why I use the electric drill and the rod technique. Here's a thought: How about one of those electrician's flexible cameras for looking in walls? Use it down the oil fill tube and have a look around down there without pulling the pan. Anything to not have to mess with good pan seals! LOL I would pull the plug and look at what comes out to help determine the possible condition of what's inside the pan.

The oil distributor is completely different than the ignition distributor. The oil distributor is located on the driver's side of the engine block behind the carburetor. To put it simply, the oil distributor is responsible for delivering oil to various parts of the engine. Check your shop manual for more information.