Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



Visit the new site at vcca.org

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 35
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 35
So I ran across this technique over on another forum about auto detailing. I have already tested this out on the trunk of my '31 and I have to say, if you don't do anything else... Do this! To restore, revitalize and keep a healthy sheen on your car. This technique works best on Single Stage paints (which any vintage chevy is likely to have).

Just thought I'd share, like I said, I have tried it with great results.
The #7 Rub Down Technique


1931 5-Window Coupe # 1,406 of 28,379
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 244
Backyard Mechanic
Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 244
I watched the same or similar video and used the Meguiar's #7 rub down on the "dead" black nitrocellulose Lacquer paint on my '36 Chevrolet 2 years ago and it worked great! It may sound crazy but they say to put the Maguiar's on and let it set for 24 hours before you wipe it off; I did that 3 times. They then suggest that you use "waterless car wash" to clean the car after that. I presently use the "waterless wash" whenever the car gets dirty and I am still pleased with the paint's appearance. If your going to Tahoe my black 1936 Chevrolet will be there so you can see the results!


Dave Cufr #12505
1927 Capitol coupe
1928 National 4-door
1928 Speedster
1936 Standard Town Sedan
1975 Nova Custom Hatchback
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701
Likes: 141
There are many products that will bring back black lacquer. Very easy color to work with, as are most non-metaiilc colors.
Now take a 1949 Chevrolet in Live Oak green for example A metallic color such as that is a completely different story.


Gene Schneider
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 35
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 35
Chev nut,

That's just the problem with metallic paints in general. Nothing can get down to the oxidized portions within the paint. You can only shine what you can touch!


1931 5-Window Coupe # 1,406 of 28,379
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,292
ChatMaster - 3,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,292
sounds like the answer to my problem of using #7.

In my area the humidity is generally very high and with #7 that humidity makes it almost impossible to wax your car with as the wax kind of balls up and is extremely difficult to clean off.

Sounds like leaving it the 24 hours to completely dry is the possible answer.

I am trying a meguiars BLACK WAX I purchased to test. Maybe this system of "let it dry completely " might help .

Meguiars told me on the telephone tech guy, the #7 does not like high humidity.

mike lynch wizard

Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 35
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 35
Mike,

That would be my recommendation. Even without the humidity. I have never personally used the Meg's Black Wax but I know it is a cleaner wax so it likely has some of the same (or similar) oils that the #7 has; so leaving it on overnight will really enhance the gloss.

If you leave it on overnight and find it is difficult to remove the next morning. I would suggest putting MORE on your cloth and then giving it a go. You'll end up going over the car twice but it should save you from working so hard.

I put a link to a different forum I'm on where I have posted pictures of my results with the '31. Write up included!
My Meguiars #7 results on my '31


1931 5-Window Coupe # 1,406 of 28,379

Link Copied to Clipboard
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5