Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#364872 03/21/16 11:51 AM
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I was wondering how everyone starts up their 40's Chevys here. Since I got my Fleetline a few months back, I've tried several different methods, but haven't hit on the perfect combination of throttle, choke, etc... The manual says not to press down on the pedal before starting, or give it any choke. That rarely works for me. My buddy who owns several vintage cars of varying makes, says they're all a little temperamental and each one has it's own finicky combination to make them come alive.

I will say that, once I do get it started, it will always start right up the rest of the day without any fiddling or adjustments. I try and drive it at least once a week, so it does sit a few days or longer between starts.

So, how do you start up your car and what are the variables involved, like temperature, sitting time, etc...?

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My method for starting the engine "cold" is pulling the choke all the way out. Pull the throtle out to a faster idle position. Give the gas pedal one pump. Then hit the starter. If the engine has not been started for more than a week it may take some long use of the starter to fill the carburetor bowl due to the gas that was in it evaporating.


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So you use the full choke all the time, regardless of outside temperatures...?

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I use it all the time....and push it back in oart of the way as soon as the engine starts. If you are using too much choke the engine will kind of lope and an excessive amount of gas it getting into the motor oil. For starting and before the engine is actually running the choke is not effective unless it is all the way out (choke plate closed)
For your year the accelerator is automatically depressed when you step on the starter.


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You could put an electric fuel pump in the fuel line, which you can prime an empty carby with. Then the mechanical one would take over. Mine sits sometimes for a couple of weeks, and I then take off the air cleaner, squirt a little gas down the carby, and start her up. I don't have the choke hooked up (it doesn't get cold here, minimum 13C). If I didn't prime the carby, I would have to crank for about a minute (maybe less, I have a 6 volt starter running on 12 volts)

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I start my 41 coupe much like Gene does. Pull the choke out, pump the accelerator a couple times, and mash the starter. (Gene hits his)

It starts right up after a couple revolutions. Then choke in far enough to not cut off and enough to kee willy p it from running rough.

If the engine is warm, I just ignore the choke. I never mess with the throttle. That's my cruise control. Well, maybe not.

Now just think. If there was no stinkin ethanol in the gasoline how different would be the starting process. What about them apples, Solon?

My problem is and continues to be that no matter how much I fiddle with it, I can't keep the engine running at idle. I'm about ready to clean my 1907 Colt .45 and raise the hood. Plug your ears. Agrin

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You will find that even gas with no ethanol causes problems due to all the required additives.If I drive out 30 miles west of the city to a different county I can et non-ethanol. I almost never do this unless I want to take a ride. /the cars run the same with either type of gas.


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So I took out my Fleetline today to try Chevgene's starting method. I was VERY careful to try and reproduce the steps as described. The engine cranked and cranked and cranked, but it wouldn't start at all - not even catch a little. Did I mention that I was very careful?

Suddenly, I realized I was SO careful, that I forgot to turn the key to run...phooey. I am totally ashamed and embarrassed, especially [full disclosure] since this wasn't the first time I had done that... Unfortunately, there wasn't anyone else in the car with me, so I couldn't blame them.

Of course, when I did turn the key, it started right up. Now I have to wait until tomorrow to see if Chevgene's process will work.

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We won't tell a soul what you did stressed


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If the car has not been started for a while having it crank a little longer is not a bad thing. It allows time for the oil pump to get some oil to places that have drained.


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I have forgotten the key a few times. At least I haven't tried to engage the starter with the key.


1946 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup Purchased 11/18/17 Sold 9/20
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe, Purchased 6/20/2010
1965 Chevy ll 350 Purchased Feb 2021. 3-speed Saginaw Hurst Floor Shifter 3.08 Rear End

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Conwayde, don't feel too bad! My dad was a mechanic at a large Chev dealer from 1929-1946, then shop foreman there until 1955.He knew everything there was to know about Chevs of that era. One morning in the early '50's, when I was a young lad, I remember him stomping into the house in a real fit because the car ('51 Chev) wouldn't start. My mother asked him quite sweetly if he had turned on the key. He looked momentarily stunned, turned on his heel, and without a word went back out to the garage. A moment later we heard the car pulling away up the street.

Mom was laughing so hard the tears were rolling. Needless to say, she had a lot to say when he returned home that evening!!

PS: You know you are getting old when you push on the starter button of your '49-'52 Chev and the motor is already running!!

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Well, one of my mistakes is leaving the key in the ignition while it's parked in the garage, so I have a tendency to forget it's even there. I pulled the key out and placed it on the seat, so now I'll remember to put it in and turn it on when I get in....well, that's the new plan anyways...

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My 48 has the position that doesn't need the key to run. That is the way i use it as it is parked in my garage. When I go into town. I use the key to put it in the lock position.


1946 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup Purchased 11/18/17 Sold 9/20
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe, Purchased 6/20/2010
1965 Chevy ll 350 Purchased Feb 2021. 3-speed Saginaw Hurst Floor Shifter 3.08 Rear End

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Just as an update, I started up the Fleetline yesterday. This time I even remembered to turn the key to the 'on' position, too. My first try was with the choke fully opened, and just a touch of throttle. I pumped the gas once and hit the starter. It caught the first time! I then immediately pushed the choke in about half way, then all the way in about 30 seconds later and it didn't quit on me. I left the throttle on for about one minute while she warmed up, then released it and she returned to a nice idle. I'll try this the next few times and see it consistently works for me.

I've got another question - The 'off" or 'lock' position is to the left. The "on' or 'run" position is straight up. What is the purpose for the position to the right of 'run?"

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Position to the right of run is for the Fulton.

Those who have been wise will have installed their Fulton with explosive attachments. By switching the key to the right will provide juice to the blasting caps imbedded in the explosives. A flash-band will blow that critter into the corn field or whatever you may be passing at the time.

It is useful for when you're visiting the upper crust side of town, picking up a lovely date or a-racing a 41. In those cases, it is better to not have the thing on there. The upper crust will think you're from the sticks and will call the law on you, thinking you have no business in that part of town. The date's dad will also call the law plus get out his shotgun as soon as he sees you drive up. The 41 driver who yore trying to pass will wonder where you got that tremendous burst of speed all of a sudden. Yep! Agrin

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The ignition can be turned on without the key.
The reasoning behind this was so the car could be left in a parking lot and the car moved without having the key. That was the parking lot attendent could not open the locked glove box or trunk. Thus only one key was required.1948 was the first year with this feature.


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Mine must not be working, Charlie - when I turn it to the right of "on", my Fulton just goes up and down, like one of those Lowriders, and makes a horrible noise like a strangled duck. The PO must not have installed it correctly. Something else I need to get fixed now. Phooey.

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So, Chevgene, are you saying that, without the key in the ignition, you have to turn it to the right to start the car and it won't start in the middle position without the key?

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Charlie ...first GOOD laugh of the day .....type onnnnnnnnn rolllaugh


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The on or run position is always in the center. If turned to the left and key is removed the switch is locked. If turned to the right and the key is removed it can be mmoved to the center postion without using the key.


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The information regarding the ignition switch positions should be in your Owner's Manual.

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JD,

Excellent point. I don't kn ow if it is actually in the OM but should be. dance

Gene, We must add that to one of the differences between the 47 and the 48. I sure didn't know it was just the 48 that had that feature. (Assuming of course that the 49 and later didn't have it.) hood

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1949-52 had the same feature.

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Vertical or middle is the only run position. Tab to drivers side no key required to turn to middle. To turn tab to passenger side, you need the key. This is the lock position.


1946 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup Purchased 11/18/17 Sold 9/20
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe, Purchased 6/20/2010
1965 Chevy ll 350 Purchased Feb 2021. 3-speed Saginaw Hurst Floor Shifter 3.08 Rear End

2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew
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