Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#350721 09/04/15 01:59 PM
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Ph1l Offline OP
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Hello there,I've got a small problem,windshield glass has pellit gun holes in it and a right hand front door glass broken,how do I get round this.1931 independence. Phil.don't forget I'm in the UK.

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Ph1l #350722 09/04/15 02:05 PM
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Ph1l,
Make a firm cardboard template of the glass, a sample so they can measure the thickness of the glass and take it to a local automotive glass shop. The windshield should be laminated safety glass. The side windows should also be safety glass but not as important as the windscreen.

If you don't know how to take the glass out click on the link to read from Service News Service News These manuals are entered by VCCA member Keith Hardy from original literature owned by or loaned to Keith. He does a great service to the old car hobby.


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Chipper #350725 09/04/15 02:27 PM
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Ph1l Offline OP
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Thanks chipper.Phil.

Ph1l #350732 09/04/15 04:55 PM
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You could also take the good side window out to the auto glass shop and have them copy that.

I would get 2 pieces made both in laminated safety glass, because if a rock hits hardened side glass it will break into 100,000 pieces.

mike lynch.......... Agrin

mike_lynch #350741 09/04/15 06:26 PM
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Regarding the windshield, this is a very precise unit, there is virtually no tolerance for dimensional variation. What you need do is remove the complete assembly, which involves removing the regulator board and the 2 side trim pieces and rubber channels. You will note the steel side tracks are sealed to the glass, and they slide in the rubber channel each side. You may also note the windshield is tapered slightl, longer on top than bottom. This is to allow the unit to fit snug when fully down (to keep out the weather) but is looser as it is raised by regulator, making it easier on the regulator gears.

So, when you take it to have glass replaced, take the frame just as you pulled it out, and specifiy to the glazier that the refurbished unit needs to be exactly the same dimensions as the old one, zero tolerance. For your insurance, measure it carefully top and bottom and record measurements (to less than 1/32") and give them to glazier as well. Finished unit cannot be 1/32" wider or will be a tight fit. It can be perhaps up to 1/16" narrower and still fit. Finally, the curve on bottom is difficult to get perfect, even using the old glass as a pattern. While the rubber bottom cowl seal will allow very minor variation in the curve, I would stress they need to aim for exact, a difficult task depending on skill of glazier.

BTW, don't ask me how I know!! I had mine back and forth 3 times before fit was suitable (and not perfect), including them having to remove the side pieces and refit them as first attempt left unit 3/32" too wide. 2nd 2 trips were to fine tune the curve, as placing unit in opening revealed glass was hitting on a couple of high spots on outer portions, up to 3/32" had to be ground off. And I had a new rubber seal which affords some flexibility, and old rubber seal will be hard and offer no foregiveness.

Gunsmoke #350784 09/05/15 02:50 PM
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Ph1l Offline OP
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Thanks everyone.

Gunsmoke #350788 09/05/15 03:14 PM
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Quote
Finally, the curve on bottom is difficult to get perfect, even using the old glass as a pattern.


Man, that is the truth! I took my windshield out three times so that the glass shop could sand the bottom curvature each time until it was correct.

laugh wink beer2


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"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"

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