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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1
Grease Monkey
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OP
Grease Monkey
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1 |
Trying to remove interior rust on a '52 truck. I picked up a bristle brush that attaches to a drill. Unfortunately, it kicks up too much dust. I tried coca-cola. I created a messy mush. I haven't tried a manufactured item. I heard they tend to leave dark spots. Any suggestions would be helpful.
thanks!
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1 |
Hi fiddy2, Don't know where you are headed with your project, but one of the commercial units that does the media blasting may be your best bet. If you are really serious, then perhaps a commercial stripper/dipper is the way to go. Any method such as your attempts with the wire brush may be hazardous to your health.
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 421
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 421 |
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 11,162
ChatMaster - 10,000
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ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 11,162 |
I agree completely with the cautions above and have some additional precautions.
I can't reccommend useing the Chemical rust removers (ususlly a mixture of chemicals principally Phosporic acid)you see at the swap meets, they are very toxic, the vapors will quickly do permanent damage to your lungs, and the vapors will also corrode and rust tools and any ferrous items in your shop that aren't painted. Then the clean up of the seams and cracks and crannies is almost impossible, any residue can ruin a high dollar paint job after just a few months.
Try to find a professional blaster that uses several different media,(walnut , and pecan hulls, bicarb of Soda etc. Blasters that know how to blast old cars do a very good job, but be careful of those that do bridges , brick buildings and large industrial projects.
Home sandblasting is a way to go or use other media walnut hulls glassbeads or sand, some drawbacks: Sandblasting takes a large compressor to run a home sized pressure blaster, at least 7 hp for a small model pressure blaster, you can do with less air on a siphon blaster (blast from a bucket)or a small spot blaster for really small jobs.You may want to consider renting a large engine powered compressor and commercial blaster for a weekend or a couple of days, if you have a place out of town where you can blast without any problems with the neighbors or the law. Sand will get into every thing within a few yards of where you blast,and it takes several hundred pounds to do a car.
Dust from sand is very hard on the lungs, silica dust is very bad and is extra hazardous for seniors and those with respiratory problems, I would advise useing an air supplyed respiration mask and a source of good clean air. a hobby sized one is around $450, so that will pay for a quite of bit of blasting , locally we can get a car body, hood, doors and trunk done for $150 to $200 when you transport to their shop.
Last but not least, as soon as possible prep the bare metal and spray a good coat of SEALER PRIMER the bare steel starts to rust immediately after the blasting takes place. Ordinary lacquer primer does not protect the steel from moisture . You need a sealer primer.
Life's a long winding trail, love Jesus and ride a good horse!
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