VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 216 rebuid

I live in Danbury, Wisconsin(NW Wisconsin)and am looking for a mechanic that can rebuild a 216 engine out of my 47 Chevy. The engine has about 36,000 original miles on it but does need to be rebuilt. Thanks ART

Are you going to take the engine out yourself or do you need someone to pull the engine and do the rebuild? If you shoot me a email I can get you some contacts for the area.

If the 36,000 is original I would consider an engine overhaul as it was done years ago. The engine was left in the chassis and overhauled. They ground the valves, replaced the rings , fit new pins, adjusted the rod and main bearings. With the normal parts the job cost $77.00 + any extras such as exhaust valves.
I would also replace the timing gears for the reasons found in several threads here lately.
Now up on disassembly if any problems are found I would then yank out the engine and have it rebuilt.
From what I have seen rebuilders just screw up these engines.
They often used oil due to the oil return holes in the rings and ring groves being plugged up with carbon.

I see you are retired so I think I would take the time and pull the engine. We should be able to help with your questions, and there are plenty of old posts describing do's and don't.

Before you take the engine out please describe why you think your engine needs rebuilding?

Like Gene suggests a lot of bad things can happen in a rebuild. Some of them are monitory, some are caused by the experience of the the rebuilder, and some the time it takes to get your engine rebuilt.

Good luck, Mike

That should be LACK of experiance of the builder.

I was going to say the same thing....

Yes...It can be a little scary...I wouldn't trust a youngster...

A couple of things with the engine:
1) It does use oil - no matter how I set the carb or the timing it still sends a blue cloud out the tail pipe - also, when driving the car and then taking your foot off the accelerator it emits blue smoke.
2) Everything I can put on the engine is new except work on the engine itself - new wires - plugs - distributor - carb is new , etc. The engine still wants not to idle what I feel is correctly. I have done all the adjusting to timing - carb and it still "chugs" a little. Your recommendation will be regarding the carb. Yes, I did get it from back to the 40's or the filling station. Thanks for your imput.

The "chugging" as you say, may be an unevenness in the idle speed, due to a vacuum leak at intake to head, or at carb base.

Probably a mute point, at this juncture though, if the engine will be disassembled anyway, to be rebuilt ..... and to correct the "blue smoke issue".

Finding a "216 / 235" experienced guy to rebuild your 216 is important. To be an engine rebuilder is not enough. One has to know the makeup of the 216.

A "late model" engine rebuilder I know of, applied the "late model" valve stem / guide clearances to the 216 engine. That mistake created a big mess.

Find the right guy to do your job.

Best of luck, with your engine project.

Seems to me that 36K is a rather low mileage engine.

I would favor Gene's recommendation of pulling the head and work it. Also, tighten the bearings some, if they need it. Whilst you have the pistons out make sure the oil return holes are open. You may want to cut the ridge at the top of the cylinders, if needed. Clean the ring grooves and put in a good set of steel rings and hone the cylinders. That should take care of it. Changing the timing gears would be a plus but probably not necessary. I would favor a fiber gear on the camshaft if replacing it.

Send your carburetor to American Carbureters in Jacksonville FL for a rebuild. They guarantee their rebuilds for life. Nice folks.

Rebuild the fuel pump or get a new one.
Rebuild the starter or service it. New brushes, clean commutator, etc.
Rebuild the generator. Ditto
Get a new set of points, condenser and spark plugs

I wouldn't think you would need a rebuild, just an overhaul. Shade-tree stuff.

Back to the pistons. Just ease them out from the top and make sure you don't disturb the shims. With only 36K miles, the fit is, still more than likely, within tolerances. If so, don't mess with them. Button them back up just like they came out.

All the other advice was pretty much right on, also. Your call.

Charlie

Also, as with my experience, the rope rear seal was a huge issue. You need to be sure whoever has a complete understanding of the rear main seal.

If you decide to have the engine rebuilt make sure you do replace the rear seal with an original asbestos seal. Some are still around and they turn up on ebay or a supplier in Canada. When I see one cheap I have a tendency to buy it. I now have four so would be glad to sell you one set. We have had a lot of discussions about the seals and engine rebuilds. Let us know if you need help finding old posts on the topic.

Good luck, Mike

P.S. Do you have a heated garage and the tools to pull the engine yourself?

First I would do a compression test. Low power and rough idle is an indicaion of burnt exhaust valves.
Smoking could be caused by oil running down the valve guides or worn. stuck, or carboned-up oil rings (no test for that) -or- oil running down the loose valve guides. The 1947 engine did not have seals to prevent oil from running down the guides. They had metal caps that sat on top of the valve spring retainers that deflected the oil away. Often these caps were removed (due to causing excessive valve noise) but then the oil had a direct path to run down the guide. This can be observed by removing the valve cover and see if they are present.
If you check it out step by step we could coach you along.

I would like to add. When I started in the Chevrolet dealership in 1950 we had a many 1946 and 1947 with 35,000 to 40,000 miles coming in with high oil consumption. They were cars driven slow on short trips where the engine and oil never got warmed up. This caused the rings/pistons to carbon-up. Also by that mileage they often needed a valve job. The normal practice was to give the engine a complete overhaul. The experianced mechanic could turn one out in 8 hours, including adjusting the mains and rods, fitting new pins, cleaning the carbon and sludge, grinding the valves and tuning the engine. Usually the engine would then get up to 85,000 mils and still be running good but the value of the car was next to nothing, car looked obsolete, and was a back row special.

I have checked several times for vacuum leaks. Please update me as to where exactly to check for these types of leaks. By the way, the starter is new - the generator has been rebuilt - there are new spark plugs and wires installed on the engine as well. The carb is a newly rebuilt.

The blue smoke and the rough idle are the two problems that I am having. Thanks again for all the help.

As I mentioned earlier it is very possible that the rough idle is caused by bad valves. Do a compression test.
To check for a vacuum leak warm up the engine. Then pull out the choke and observe if the engine smooths out. If it does you have a vacuum leak. Posible causes (if the carb. was rebuilt correctly) is the insulator block under the carb cracked, intake manifold to head gaskets leaking, wipper hose cracked, vacuum hose to vaccum shift can leaking, vacuum advance diaaphragm leaking.
Dirt in the carb. low speed jet......

Looks like I have a compression of 85 on one and the rest are 95 or better. Had this done at my friends repair service.

I think we all need to read our manuals carefully on compression before deciding on rebuilding our engines?

1941 manual article on Compression

Thanks, Mike

The generally low compression readings indiactes the compression rings probably are bad (worn, lost tension or stuck). The low cylinder a burnt exhaust valve causing rough idle adn poor low speed performance.
The smoking you mentioned = oil ring problesms (worn, low tension, plugged with carbon).
If the mileage is correct and nothing major has ever been done to the engine you need an overhaul job.

But who - in this day and age - knows how to rebuild a 216 engine and do it RIGHT?

Hi, send me a message with your phone number. I'll give you a call with some information. Don

In a rebuild it is part of your responsibility to learn how to do it right. You become the expert as you micromanage the process. It will be your $4000 dollars that pays the bill, your headache when things do not work out. Gene and others, your manual, your research, your choice of a machine shop, your luck, your parts supplier, that will make for a successful rebuild.

You need to create a diary of questions with multiple check lists. You need to, up front, establish the rapport you want with your builder. Plan on visiting a shop a couple of times before making a decision, and do check out references.

Where should you start?

1) You read your manual on engine repairs and take notes of things you want to ask the rebuilder. You provide a copy of the manual to the rebuilder, for reference.

2) You follow up by doing Keyword Searches on our web site. We have an index with over 10 years of posts and hundreds of years of experience behind them. The index is finicky but can and must be mastered by you. When things do not make sense post questions for clarification.

3) You Identify the potential rebuilders.

A friend recommended a rebuilder 400 miles away. Being a control freak and a wonderer I called and talked to the shop to ascertain their true experience. I wanted to know how often they rebuilt 216's could they give me some references, what was their turn around time? I wasn't into the concept of dropping something off and picking it up X months later so I didn't seriously consider using them for the rebuild.

I posted to this web site asking for recommendations of rebuilders. One of the reply's came from a gentleman saying I had one of the best machine shops in Michigan 20 miles from my house. So I called ahead and scheduled a visit.

I ended checking out 3 shops in my immediate area. One shop was basically into racing and more modern engine rebuilds, but wanted to get into rebuilding older engines. The shop was meticulous, the 3 employees were all in freshly pressed uniform shirts, they sent out their machining, and did everything that a garage does for normal automotive repairs, so they would be fitting my work in around oil changes and radiator flushes. A friend had just had his 54's Buick engine rebuilt there in about 6 months, and was satisfied with the work and they had treated this all original Black car, with a Continental Kit and various unique updates with a lot of special care. Have you thought of a shop where you leave your car off and they remove the engine and store the car for you while they do the work or you tow your car home and store it?

Another business less than 5 miles away had a good shop where Don Harbron a local VCCA member of national renown has his work done. The shop was dark, well worn, with two very experienced machinists. All the machine work I had done their previously was fast and well done. The mom and pop shop was part of a nationally affiliated chain of parts stores, but was being bought out by another chain. I didn't want to get caught in a management/ownership change, and I didn't fell comfortable looking at the meager facilities. One guy was block sanding the bottom of a head. I wondered if that was their idea of machining a head or block? I had them hot tank and Magnifluxed a head I wanted to use on my rebuild. When I got it home I decided to run about 90 pounds of compressed air through the water jacket in the head. It took about an hour to clean out the debris. That finished me off from using them. When I took the head to the shop I settled on, they insisted, on rechecking the head for cracks. I got a call from them a day later. They had found cracks and said the head was unusable. I went to the shop and they showed me the cracks. They had used a different system of checking for cracks. The cracks were obvious in the black light they shined on the head.

The shop I settled on was a large Carquest regional machine shop. Well lite, clean, men in pressed shirts, a lot of specialized equipment. I visited, talked to the shop foreman, and had a complete tour. I asked my questions. I called their references, and the work was always highly rated, the but was that it took them a long time. I did the dance with them for over a year. The phone calls, the visits, the donuts. In the end I think I got a good engine rebuild, I drove the car for 5 months and then pulled the engine to do body work. The engine has sat under my stairs for the last year in my heated garage. ONLY TIME WILL TELL, about when the car gets back on the road and when the engine gets enough miles on it to know it is a good rebuild?

4) You decide the extent of your rebuild to be covered later.

I think I might try to pull some more advice together but doing a Keyword Search using the terms +engine +rebuild and using Mike Buller under the Display Name Search field will cover a lot of my experiences.

Good luck, Mike

Finding vacuum leaks ...... take a hand held propane torch, turn the propane on, but DO NOT LIGHT THE PROPANE FLAME.

With the engine running, at idle speed and the propane gas coming out of the nozzle, move the nozzle close to the base of the carb, then move the nozzle close to the cylinder head and intake manifold connection.

IF the engine idle speed increases, while the nozzle is at a specific location, you have found a vacuum leak. The propane gas ..... at the source of the leak, will cause engine RPM to increase.

Propane will find the smallest vacuum leak. Other applications, such as soapy water will also detect some leaks, but the propane, from my experience, is cleaner to work with, neater and more efficient.

Look like donsbigtrucks has engine rebuilder info for you. Yhe key is to find an individual who already has experience with the 216 engine rebuild. No time for a "wannabe" rebuilder.

I'm going going to chime in here one more time. Please note that I have no qualms with the advice thus far given. I just think a far less intrusive surgery is necessary.

With a 36K mile engine, after trying to solve the rough running, I would opt for a simple ring and valve job. Just a minor overhaul and not a rebuild which is different.

Pull the head, get some valve compound and a rubber tip tool and hand grind the valves. Drop the pan and punch out the pistons using the wood handle of a ball-peen hammer. Finish up one at a time so you don't get parent cylinders stuff mixed up. Clean the ring grooves. Slap in a new set of still rings (stagger the grooves (ring ends) and put the caps back on the rods with the oil pickup facing the right way. (This is important.) Use new ring job gaskets and button everything back up. Torque the head bolts to specs. Clean everything up you can along the way.

Good idea to check the head and manifolds for smoothness and straightness. Planing may be warranted but should not be.

Don't mess with the shims. Leave them just the way they come out on the rod caps. Not enough miles to worry about. They can only be just a tad loose and you would have to get into feel and plasti-gauge and all that stuff. They should be fine for a good bit longer.

That will be a ring and valve job. And, likely all you need for anothe50-50K miles.

Back flush the radiator and flush out the block while you're at it.

Don't worry about the cam and its oil source other than making sure the oil supply passage is open.

That is all I would do unless something warranting further exploration and/repair/replacement was call for.

All the above can be accomplished by a novice mechanic. It's not brain ,surgery or rocket science. Easier than setting the clock on your VCR. Well, yes much easier. Actually, no harder than a brake job.

To me, the engine shouldn't be ripe for a major overhaul or a rebuild. Just a little touch up, i.e., shade tree job.

Charlie

Note: There may be a few simple things that I didn't mention but overall that will become obvious as one does the job.

Bobg .. great technique . thanks .. that one goes in the book .

I persoanlly use one of 2 local machine shops in the Canton, OH area. One machine shop is relatively organized, employees wear blue uniforms and their machines look well cared for. I had my 216 block magnafluxed, flushed out, decked there. They also balanced my crankshaft and ground the mains and rods to .010" .
I am impressed with them. The other machine shop that I have used many times is located in an abondoned looking gas station. When you walk inside, it is somewhat unorganized and looks like they cleaned the place a year ago. Their work is superb. The 3 machinists are experts in almost any type of engine, especially big horese power blocks. They have tons of knowledge about 216's and they work at a good pace. Most people would walk in and immediately turn around. They definitely would never win the good housse keeping award, but their quality is nearly unmatched. Sometimes looks can be deceiving.

dtm

Sorry but I would not do anythng that 1941specialdeluxe suggests.
This engine is 67 years old. May have 136,000 miles on it. It was legal in Wisconsin for a dealer to xero the speedometer when selling a used car. Back in 1947 I saw these 3 year old egines badly worn due to infrequent oil changes with poor oil to boot.
If new pins are not fitted and the rings are tight the pins will be clucking at idle. If you drive the pistons out as suggested without cutting the ring grove you will damage the pistons. wouldn't think of doing it without adjusting the bearings.
The valves should be ground on a proper valvgringing machine as well as their seat and to the seat width as specifief in the shaop manua. Years ago they didn't know berrer and lapped them in and ground valves every 10,000 miles.
If you don't do a overhaul job at least do a valve job and drop the pan to make sure the oil pup screen is not plgged-up.

Where did this car come from? It seams I saw it at a VCCA Meet years back. A good original 1957 Fleetmaster 4 door with original marooon paint if I remember correctly....and it was for sale at the time.

Dave: I just sent you a PM

Dick

Style,

This procedure has ALWAYS worked well for me, not messy, no slop, just a clean way to find the culprit.

It is a 1947 Chevrolet - not a 1957.

Rangerart71,

Gene and we all know it is a 47 and not a 57. The 5 in the place of a 4 is a typo error. FYI, there is no one more qualified than Gene (Chevgene,Chev Nut)to provide you the best advice available, and no one more dedicated to our wonderful hobby.

Good luck, Mike

I see all kinds of good suggestions here...To numerous to comment on...I just down sized my old shop...Got rid of things like my 'ol Shore Boring Bar that you could re-bore without removing the engine...Ring groove cleaners...Valve grinding machine...And talk about dirty shops...I worked at one that had all the surplus from building our "Liberty Ships"...I bought a few...Still had "Property of the War Dept." on them...I've restored them for fun...I learned at lot working with these old "Dutch" machinists that escaped the Great War...Wouldn't trade the experience for the world...

I recall my first 235 "exchange" short block...I Think it cost me $269 bucks...$4,G's for a rebuild these days, drives me nuts...

Gene,

With respect, the man said that the engine had 36K on it. To suggest that the odometer has been rolled back in this instance, if merely a fishing trip. We can assume that he knows what in the h--- he has. Given that information, I don't see why he can't do a ring and valve job and expect it to run well. Poor oil and infrequent oil changes are another assumption that is not implied by the owner's post. Better suggest he check the the block (and oil pan for a rod) hole in the side of it, too. Etc, etc. Mercy!

Removing the groove at the top of the cylinder before taping the pistons out is elementary as is other things I didn't mention for the ring and valve job.

These type minor overhaul steps have been taken for many years with success. Let's not assume that someone else's suggestion is worthless and that a major rebuild it the only way to go. There is a big difference in price as well as expectations involved. My suggestion involves the cost of a simple tool, some valve grinding compound and a gasket set and a set of rings.

The ring compressor, the cylinder hone, the ridge cutter and the straight edge can be borrowed (or us a square carpenters tool. It would result in a good running engine for many more miles until a more extensive overhaul or rebuild was warranted. Again I cite the owner's statement that the engine has "36K" on it. He can check the wrist pins when he takes the pistons out. Elementry, too.

Implying or inferring that another's advice (touching the high points of a minor overhaul) as worthless, out of hand, is unfair. I ain't Happy (or any of them other elves for that matter). Makes me look like an idiot. I don't need any help.

If money is no object and/or show quality is wanted then I would recommend you advice. I didn't take the owner's post as having that in mind.

Best,
Charlie

Hi Charlie, Hi Gene,

I think you both need a big hug and a little sun shine and warm weather. What if we all meet in Key West for a little R and R?

Best wishes to you both, Mike

P.S. On a more serious note, gathering opinions (educating ourselves) and then deciding how you want to approach a problem is what this hobby is all about. We get all our boyfriends advice then we decide. Hugs and more hugs

I am sorry - I did not mean to ignite a firestorm. When I was 16 my Dad purchased a 1947 2 door stylemaster for me. I am now 71 and going back to my childhood I guess.

The car does have 36,000 almost 37,000 miles on it. Was in storage. I have a lot of Irish Spring bar soap to prove it was in storage. Was brought out and a lot of work done to it to bring it to what it looks like now.

For some reason most of the money invested was in other things rather then the motor. Everything - I mean everything works on the car. The interior is fine - the paint job is a 15 footer. The brakes are all new. And on I could go.

The engine was left lacking so I have been doing everything that I know of to bring it back to running like I know it should. New valve cover gasket - new oil pan gasket - everything I can think of that can be taken off the engine and replaced with new has been done - spark plugs, wires, coil, carb - points - rotor - cover - etc. Steers tight - new tires all around. It does have - what i have grown to expect - the usual chevy leaks - a little from the transmission and a little from under the block. Tranny, rear end and engine have all had their fluids changed.

Compression test - 1)90 2)95 3)90 4)95 5)85 6)95 The 85 pounds really bothers me and was tested three times with he same result. I know that the compression should be better then this and may be causing the problem.

Also, know that it burns some oil and blows blue smoke when accelerating and when coasting. I have tried checking the vacuum and will do that again using the ways suggested in this forum.

I have seen no one giving me bad information only information to assist me in fixing this car because we are all "old car" lovers.

I want to thank each on for their advice. AND, accept with thanks anything suggested in the future. Blessings - Art

That doesn't mean we can't be friends....we just have diferent opinions.
I will stand by my suggestions with my many years of experiance (almost 65 years) with these engines.
I could go on and on but in short I don't believe in patch jobs.

With 85 compression on number 5 and 90 to 95 on the other five does that suggest anything to you? I do not have my manual at my desk - what is the suggested compression?

All of the cylinders being within 5-10% of each other is more important. It sounds like you have a weak cylinder. Could be rings or possibly a leaking valve. I'd bet on ring lands filled with crud.

Hi Art,

In 1941 the suggested pressure was 110, I assume your 216 is the same. Your manual has some good pointers on compression issues.

I do appreciate your above detailed background post. It is always easiest when we provide as much detail as possible. It eliminates a lot of assuming on every ones part.

Glade to know you have had the oil pan off and have most lively cleaned out the pan and oil pump filter screen. It tells a lot about your cars maintenance. I have a 47 block which has an almost sandy textured buildup on its rods, crank, and inner engine surfaces. Its oil pump screen and oil pan were in very poor condition. I would find it hard to believe that it would not need a complete rebuild to be a good engine again.

Good luck, Mike

P.S. I can post some pictures if helpful.

When these engines were new it was common to have 120 pounds compression. 110 would be a minimum for good performance.
You could do just a valve job to get smooth and better performance. If compression rings are bad general performance would still suffer. Would actually increase oil consumption and smoking due to better vacuum.

My '37 216 had a slight idle problem. Went thru the tune-up, including the carb and carb change.

With a vacuum gauge I discovered a 1" fluctuation. Checked my manual and one of the causes listed was a valve not seating correctly.

Did a compression check and found only a 5lb differance in the #4 cylinder, all others were the same.

From my repair shop days I had an air line adapter for the spark plug hole. With the compressor supplying air, I hooked it up to the #4 cylinder and found air was leaking out the tail pipe. In my case, burnt exhaust valve. But a sticking or misadjusted valve might also be a problem.

You can use this same set-up for each cylinder to check for worn/bad rings. If air is coming out of the valve cover or road draft tube, worn or frozen rings would be the culprit, hence blue smoke.

If air comes out of the carb, bad intake valve or misadjusted intake valve.

You sure can...They have a tool for that, though...It's called a "Leak Down Tester"...Most auto parts stores should carry them...If not, flag down your local Snap-On truck...Your method is less expensive,though...

As an amendment to my previous post.....If you have a compression tester with flexible screw in adaptors for different types of heads/spark plugs, remove the schrader valve and you now have an adaptor to perform the test I described.

The leak down tester would be the best way to determine leakage if you know what "stock" ring loss is rated at. But yes, I think the adaptor is the quickest way for anyone to check the condition of the cylinder seal by the rate of air loss and what area the loss is evident .....thru the carb......out the tail pipe ......or out the draft tube /valve train (valve cover off).

I agree...I think you'd get more "bang for your buck" by using your method...Going to machine a special one up for myself...
Simpler to use and with more control over the air pressure, easier to hear where the leak is coming/going...Thanks for the tip...

Thought: Have found several nice 216 engines and one nice 235 engine.
!) Are the 216 and the 235 interchangeable.
2) Besides losing numbers matching on my 47 what are the ramifications of buying a 216 or 235 that I have heard run and installing that engine into my 47.
Would be much less expensive. Thanks

#1 -required changes depend on year

#2 You may be getting an engine that is worse than what you have.

#3 I would keep the original

First question, what years are the motors in question?
Gene beat me again, by 21 seconds.

If you are concerned about originality, keep the 216.

If you do not care about the originality, get into a full pressure 235.

Or get a 261. About same change-over issues as a 235 and then, unlike on a 216 and a 235, the oil filter, receiving full pressure rather than a relative mere trickle, will become more than just a decoration. Choose a 235 or 261 with hydraulic valves and it will be quitter, too!

Charlie

Not all 261's have an full flow oil filter and no 261 trucks had hydraulic lifters. You would have to find a Canadian Pontiac passenger car 261 to get the Hyd. lifters.

Now go back to the original question. He is looking for a (pardon the expression) cheap way to get a better running engine in his 1947.

Seeing the car is a nice ooriginal I would vote for keeping the original engine.

I agree with Gene to keep the original engine in the car. If you find a good used engine chances are its going to cost some good money. Chances are the used engine is going to have quirks and issues and in the end you'd be better off spending money on what you have and in the end you will know exactly what you have.

Thanks - just asking - looking at all the options before dipping into the savings account and doing what needs to be done. Why oh why does an old chevy get my attention and into my pocketbook. Blessings

I would stay with a 216, but that is just my preference, I prefer original as much as possible. That being said, I wouldn't be to afraid of an engine I could hear run and inspect for myself. If your engine truly has only 36,000 miles, I think I would have the valves ground, and do a ring job, and fit the bearings. You can tell how much wear the cylinders have by the ring ridge and inspect the pistons, wrist pins, bearings etc. Then decide whether it is a candidate for a simple overhaul or needs a complete rebuild including boring it and regrinding the crankshaft.

Well - now that that is settled I need to find a "best" rebuilder somewhere not too far from Danbury, Wi. - Minneapolis, Mn. - or Duluth, Mn. Thanks!

I will mail you the address of a person that lives in the area later today. He will be able to help.

Just one more word. I would avaiod the word "rebuild" as it indicates removing the engine, reboring the cylinders, turning the crankshaft, replacing pistons and rods, camshaft, etc.
With only 36,000 miles none of that should be necessary, especially on a vehicle that you will be driving 1000 miles a year or so.
Would be nice if you could find an old timer that could do a plain old fashioned overhaul job as was done years ago and at a more resonable price.

Gene,

I think I hear an echo.

Charlie

When I was working at a garage in the late 50's, the price for the overhaul of a 216 cu.in. engine was $85.00

Gene gave this same recommendation on page one of this thread, third post.

Your echos are getting mixed.

The overhaul of a 216 was expected by 40,000 to 75,000 miles. With a good mechanic doing the job the engine would come out as good and in some cases better than new.
Most engines in other makes at that time did require rebuilding....or a rebuilt engine was installed due to the cylinders being badly worn and/or the crankshaft out of round.

Bob,

Not quite the same as mine for simplicity of recommendation. His recommendation, over time, went far beyond what mine has been all along. His have been all over the place, in effect, covering all bases. Now having seen the wisdom of my recommendation, he has gone back to a more simple recommendation echoing/mirroring mine. Hence my hearing echoes of what I recommended all along and without (my) wavering from my simple method of minor overhaul. Rings and valve grinding.

With only 36K the engine should merely need no more extensive repair than the valves ground (which one can do themselves with a "stick" and some compound), and pistons eased out for a set of rings. Short of deliberate engine abuse that is all it could possibly need at 36K. Even an Aussie or a Canadian couldn't have abused it that much even if they were patrolling the Outback or Northern Territories , respectively. Simply a valve and ring job would surely do. That is a minor overhaul as opposed to a major overhaul or rebuild. Expense between the minor to the major and rebuild being a major factor in my recommendation, as well.

See the difference?

Charlie

BTW: This may be an upward battle by me to convince you or anyones else of the echo I'm hearing in the instant matter but so be it. After all, "Entrenched belief is never altered by the facts." (From Dick Francis' novel "Hot Money."

BTW2: I do not question Gene's expertise on this issue, merely his slant toward covering his butt for all contingencies. I'm taking a calculated chance by sticking to my simple and only recommendation. After all, I don't have enough clout in Chatter to be worried that I may get something wrong. He does. Hence his wavering recommendation here and the echo I heard.

After reading all the post I am amazed that so many different conclusions have been reached. The first step of taking a compression test has been done. Until the second step of determining the cause of the oil burning and low compression has been reached its my opinion that its a guessing game on what the cause is. Step two should be to remove the head and inspect the valves etc. along with cylinder wear.

My original was to overhaul the engine as it was done years ago. This would INCLUDE fttting new pins and adjusting the bearings. I still stand by this if you want the engine to sound as new.
So often I have gone to meets, etc. and heard guys tell they rebuilt the engine. When you hear it idle the pins are clucking so bad you can't believe it.
I always got compliments on my cars because you couldn't hear the engine running. For some reason many thing a chevrolet engine has to be noisey. If everything is up to snuff they are very quiet.
As far as removing the head and inspecting I am all for that but due to the smoking it still doesn't show you the pluged-up oil rings which was always a problem on low mileage short trip driven Chevrolet engines, especially with the oil of yesterday.

I agree that most likely the rings are worn or carboned up/stuck and need to be checked. Step three if no excessive cylinder top ridge then pull the pistons and check the rings. Start with the one with lowest compression. Whatever decision is made will depend on the inspection and that can only be done with the engine apart. I also think that its best to rebuild completely. Do it right and do it once. That way you can look forward to pleasurable driving ahead rather than an overhaul on the horizon.
If you do find excessive top ridge indicating cylinder wear then just plan on an overhaul.

I'll just bet those ongoing "echos" you hear are a real bugger !

This entire thread seems a toss, back and forth, saying how little can be done to hopefully "fix" or do it all and be certain all is well.

After MY 35 years with Chevrolet, I left Chevy knowing a "good job" was a job done well, in a thorough fashion.

That being said, to be the best job possible, the job needed to be done (1) without shortcuts and (2) with no stone unturned.

Not knowing how much anyone desires to dive under the hood ...... again and again, just knowing I do not ... I would opt to do it once and do it right the first time.

I kept having a clack sound at idle, and thought, Oh boy, getting close to a rebuild...Was only a bent tappet rod...Runs so smooth now...I think it has been rebuilt three times by P.O. owners...Running a light blue block, but #'s still match with the title...

It looks like rangerart71 has received an answer to his original question. Thanks to those who participated with constructive responses.

The follow-on discussion, however, has begun to wander severely off-track.

If rangerart71 needs more help, he can begin a new thread.


Based upon these conditions, this thread is NOW LOCKED.