Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#30665 05/11/02 01:03 PM
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I have a 48 fleetline with a 216 in it.What would be a resonable price for a engine rebuild.I've most resently been ripped off on a 40k restoration

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#30666 05/16/02 11:41 PM
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Hi Chef! I suspect you entered this message in the wrong forum by accident. You'll certainly get more responses if you put it in the '46-'48 category! chevy That said, check out this website:
They specialize in Fords, but will work on Chevy's too. This could give you a general idea of costs. H & H Engine Rebuilding


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#30667 05/20/02 08:33 AM
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216...that would vary as to what needed to be done,if it is a total mess cost is higher looks to me like if you and a friend with the talent to do the work a total rebuild cost range $1000,to bore,turn crank,valves,block clean,cam bearings,oil pump,new rods..Have a shop do all work $2000...Shop around see what you come up with for prices..216 getting pretty old find some old gray beard that loves to do it and knows what he is doing..If it doesn,t have to be total factory correct go with a 235 full preasure oil motor...doc


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#30668 05/23/02 09:00 AM
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Doc,if I were to change my 48 stock 216 to a 235,would there be any modifications needed?My new thought was to get a remanufactured engine insted of rebiulding the existing 216.I think I can get either of these engines.P.S.This old grey beard is very mechanicaly challanged,but can pepare a mean Salmon dinner!!!!!thanks you guys chef....

#30669 05/23/02 11:30 AM
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#30670 05/24/02 01:58 AM
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#30671 05/24/02 07:30 AM
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John is telling you straight on the engine if you can save the org engine that came from the factory that is the thing to do,he is correct on the rod oiling system,if you are going to hotrod it the sky is the limit..and I am an old gray beard...doc


doc
#30672 05/24/02 09:28 AM
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Johnny,you've been a great help and insiration.I've had my Fleetline now for about 18 years and only until recently have done very little to it.It went into resto in late 2000 and got it back earily this year.The restorer had always said how great it ran and no real engine work needed to be done.Wrong,I now have a beautifull show piece that barely can make it out of the garage(time and materials)will never be how I do business again.Well that's water over the bridge now and I will!carry on and thanks to your support for my old 216'it will live on,being rebiult as origanilly planned.Thanks to Don I think I have found a reliable guy to do the job closed to home...thanks again...chef...

#30673 05/25/02 01:18 PM
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Glad to see your sticking with the 216 chef.

It truly is an amazing engine. When she is totally rebuilt, You will have one of the most reliable engines ever built......

Good luck.......Keep us posted. laugh laugh chevy



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#30674 05/26/02 09:33 AM
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Do you think the restorer took adavantage of you as far as time did he do something to the engine,,what is it running like???doc


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#30675 05/28/02 09:37 AM
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Doc,this is a very sore subject and I guess we all have one of these stories,I've written it off to experience.The 48 was in restoration for 1 year until I ran out of money(50k from my retirement fund)the frame was good and most of the rust was in the trunk.The brake job was 3000.and the only other mechanical work totaled 1500.The bill for parts was a grand total of about 2500.-3000. All this time I was told the chevy ran well? Two weeks before picking up the car I was told the carb. needed replaced,so "I"had a rebiult one sent to them.When I picked up the Chev,me the fool did'nt drive it and because of the distance had it towed.When the car was lifted to be lowered from the truck bed,oil spuwed out of the engine.I started the car and barely got it into the garage,where it sits today.I thought interior would finish this project but I guess engine is 1st.I still have no answer to the question I've asked over and over?Why would the restorer spend so much time makeing a car pretty if it does'nt run good or even at all.There's my story and I will close this issue for ever.........chef...

#30676 05/28/02 03:01 PM
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With the prices mentioned above in mind. What would you guys estimate a complete rebuild cost for my '30 "dipper" to be? I'm talking worst case now.
Dan.


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#30677 05/28/02 05:42 PM
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It is not uncommon to get $4,000 to $5,000 invested in a 1930 engine to do the job right, and that's depending upon how many NOS parts you want to use, balancing the engine, the quality of the babbit work and etc. And, I have seen $1,500 engine rebuilds too, but the customer got what he paid for and the engine had to be done over. Also, there is a rule of thumb that a lot of us use, and it is the same rule that applies to plating work.....and that is, don't have it done by "Joe Blow" at your local machine shop, or in most cases, you will be doing the engine rebuild over again! :eek: :eek: laugh laugh laugh


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#30678 05/28/02 07:02 PM
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Ok. That is in line with the information I'm getting. Time for a bigger piggy bank.

Thanks, Dan.


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#30679 06/25/02 10:01 AM
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I got into this thread a little late but a check of brake parts for the early chev brakes, either in Kanter, The Filling Station etc., I doubt very much that a complete rebuild would run in excess of $500.00 for parts including a rebuilt MC. If I hired a local shop to do the job at $50.00 and hour they should be able to complete the job in about 10 hours or say $500.00 throw in an additional 10% for problems and you have about $1100.00 so 3 grand seems very very high to me. I do my own work and a complete job on my 52 (cheaper parts) ran me about $250.00, all the parts were purchased from NAPA with no shipping and handling cost. Had to wait a day for the Master Cylinder kit. Bandaids were extra! I recently purchased a 52 235 with less than 10K on a complete rebuild for $500.00 it included Wayne polished aluminum side plate and rocker arm cover, starter, generator, distributor, carb, and manifolds, they guy also threw in 4 backing plates with new wheel cylinders,front drums and bearings and a heater control valve. He was ruining a perfectly good 52 Bel air HTP by fitting a SB, etc. His loss my gain.

#30680 06/27/02 10:44 AM
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Finally supposed to pick up my 51 216 at the machine shop this week. For the shortblock the total for machining and parts is right around $1500. This included washing the block,boring .030 over,cleaning up the deck,grinding the crank,rods converted to inserts,cam bushings installed,new freeze plugs,and balancing the assembly. Parts included new pistons and rings and all bearings. Shop wanted $300 for assembly but I'll do it myself. This shop is in the Chicago area so labor prices may be a little higher than other areas. It was also recommended by several VCCA members in the area.


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