Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#302430 03/02/14 09:48 PM
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Guess I'm gonna have to replace my master cylinder I've rebuilt it 2 times in the 10yrs that I've owned it.Or could it possibly be sleeved..I'm thinkin I can get a new one for around $150.00

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A stainless sleve will last for ever. Be sure to get a fresh kit so the rubber parts last that long also. Also change the fluid every few years.


Gene Schneider
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so can any machine shop do this, surely it'll be cheaper than new. found one on ebay for 97.00 free shipping.

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To have it sleeved with s.s. and shipping both ways would probably cost more than $ 97.00. willy


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p.k. #302445 03/03/14 05:56 AM
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yea, Ok thanks guys.

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well I went on ahead and ordered one from E-bay should be here Friday...

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IF ITS NEW OLD stock replace the rubber parts before installing.


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Why not just get a new kit from NAPA, hone the sucker out and put it back in. Should be just fine. More than likely a brake hone and drill and new kit is all you need. Be sure to coat the rubber parts with brake fluid.

You're throwing money away. Send it to me instead. Agrin

Sell the one you're getting from ebay or put it on the shelf.

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He already honed it twice there Charlie computer I fear the the bore is getting a bit large by now...The typical machine/job shop doesn't want to mess with a one off re-sleeving of his old master cylinder...They prefer production work and/or jobs that wouldn't require a special holding fixture...There are "specialty" shops that do "sleeving" for us old car guys...But alas, the price runs abound the same as the the master cylinder he's buying new off eBay...That would include the new parts, assembled, painted and ready to install...


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kevin47 #302650 03/05/14 06:27 PM
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Thanks Kevin47..

kevin47 #302697 03/06/14 12:48 PM
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Keven47 wrote: "The typical machine/job shop doesn't want to mess with a one off re-sleeving of his old master cylinder...They prefer production work and/or jobs that wouldn't require a special holding fixture.."

Kevin47,

I guess I'm pretty stupid. Please explain what you mean by the above statement. It is Greek to me.

Also note my take on honing the bore:

a. It takes a heap of honing to oversize a bore. Not much boring but lots of honing.

b. Microscropic pits are not a problem. They may serve a good purpose and be even desirable.

c. The condition of the internal rubber products is esential to good operation.

d. Old M/C with large pits will need sleeving. Good cores are out there that need honing only.

e. A honed cylinder with only minor tiny pits and new rubber parts are just as safe as sleeved ones. Sleeving is merely useful in restoring bores that have been exposed to the elements, etc, and are otherwise unusable. Stainless or brass serves no purpose where not needed and they are not needed here.

f. M/S do not fail without warning. Ignoring unusual operation can lead to accidents, usually through depletion of brake fluid. Loss of brake fluid leaves tell-tell signs over time.

I did understand that the cylinder had been honed twice before. That in itself does not mean that the bore is too large to accept new parts and then work as it should.

My two cents worth,
Charlie computer

BTW: I'll stand by for your answer to your statement.


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Actually, if you have the master cylinder off and can identify any flaws in the bore, sleeve it and install new rubber for a permanent fix. If it had any pits, guess what, they will just grow. Do your self a favor, sleeve the MC and all WC, and then don't worry.


Agrin devil


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Hi Charlie computer...! My post was my opinion to their question as to if the typical machine shop ( including automotive ) would want to take on the task of re-sleeving their master cylinder...They don't...Not a money maker...They would suggest you use the internet to find a "specialty" shop that would love to do this job, and lighten your wallet...

I guess the question should be, "Why is he having to remove and re-hone this master cylinder so often...?" I guess I might throw my arms in the air and say, "Let's just start over and make a fresh start of things...!", too.

Uh oh, all the time I have for post's right now...Have to go lighten someone else's wallet right now... laugh


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New is always the easiest (and sometimes cheapest) way out. Raybestos still makes them new and Rock Auto and Napa carry them.

My Dad has used the sleeving service at White Post Restorations with success, but that was on an original '56 master cylinder and he wanted to show it off. It was pricey if I recall, but they did nice work for him, and anyone else if you want to go the sleeve route.


-Daryl Scott #45848
1947 Chevrolet Fleetline Sportmaster Sedan
1976 Chevrolet C20 Fleetside





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Ok Gentlemen the vote is in.. I just received my new remanufactured MC. she's a beaut. not sure when I'll put it in but real soon. I will however hang on to the old one...Hope everyone has a NICE DAY...

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Originally Posted by Daryl Scott
New is always the easiest (and sometimes cheapest) way out. Raybestos still makes them new and Rock Auto and Napa carry them.
I hear ya...I'm a big fan of "the easiest way out"...Which usually means I'll be back behind the wheel sooner... laugh


1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475

If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
kevin47 #302888 03/08/14 08:24 PM
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Well I went to a local swap meet today and found me an rebuilt Generator for 65.00 so with the new Master cylinder and Generator I should have the ole chevy cruising in no time...


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