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I still have the same problem on the 41 coupe as before but because I have changed the carburetor, the spark plugs, adjusted the points, and replaced the vacuum hose to the shifter and, now, continue to have the same problems, I figure it's time to go to a new thread. Last thing I did was put new 104 plugs in it. I started right up and after a few minutes would run well without any choke. It had required choke before to idle and I thought that after it had run for enough time for the temperature to settle on 180 degrees, I had fixed the problem. Next day (last Friday) I drove it to the local flea market. At the first stop light it died. Restarted it but had to use choke. Same thing all the way home. Had to use some choke for it not to die at stop lights. It refuses to idle after being driven for any short distance. It has continued this way for a long time now. I think the car: a. Is jinxed, or b. Got an air leak that I can find or hear, or c. Got some bad gas, or d. Hates me (I haven't done anything to it that it should hate me but you never know. Something weird is going on, for sure) Anyone got any more ideas. The plugs are brand new AC set at forty (40) thousands and the points at eighteen (18) thousands. This thing is driving me nuts. Well, more nuts, at least.   Thanks for listening, Charlie 
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Oil Can Mechanic
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I still have the same problem on the 41 coupe as before but because I have changed the carburetor, the spark plugs, adjusted the points, and replaced the vacuum hose to the shifter and, now, continue to have the same problems, I figure it's time to go to a new thread. Last thing I did was put new 104 plugs in it. I started right up and after a few minutes would run well without any choke. It had required choke before to idle and I thought that after it had run for enough time for the temperature to settle on 180 degrees, I had fixed the problem. Next day (last Friday) I drove it to the local flea market. At the first stop light it died. Restarted it but had to use choke. Same thing all the way home. Had to use some choke for it not to die at stop lights. It refuses to idle after being driven for any short distance. It has continued this way for a long time now. I think the car: a. Is jinxed, or b. Got an air leak that I can find or hear, or c. Got some bad gas, or d. Hates me (I haven't done anything to it that it should hate me but you never know. Something weird is going on, for sure) Anyone got any more ideas. The plugs are brand new AC set at forty (40) thousands and the points at eighteen (18) thousands. This thing is driving me nuts. Well, more nuts, at least. Thanks for listening, Charlie How much vacuum do you have at idle Charlie? Is the vacuum advance working? The vacuum shifter? The wipers? Are they all working as they should with proper vacuum? How do your new plugs look now? Sooty? Have you readjusted your idle mixture since installing the plugs? Idle speed and mixture should be the last things adjusted on a tune up. Is there perhaps a bit of dirt in the idle jet? Where did you get the carb you put on it?
Richard
Waverly, IA
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Charlie
A quick test for vacuum leak is to spray starting fluid or carb cleaner around the joints, if the engine changes sounds you have found the leak. You could also use oil the same way but it is difficult to put oil on the underside of the manifold gasket.
Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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Are the spark-plug wires solid wire? The new carbon wires don't work well with these cars.
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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This is a long-shot, but worth checking: I have had a problem with the linkage to the accelerator pump/ main jet that runs along the side of the W-1 carb. It was hanging up on the carb housing and was hard to see with that cover in place. I would set the idle without noticing that that linkage was preventing the idle screw from resting on its stop. Then when the motor was warm the idle would occasionally be way slow - or it would be way fast.
Unlikely in your case, since you've tried two carbs, but worht checking.
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Hi Charlie, Did you reverse your throttle and chock linkage? I would also check the linkage where the accelerator is attached to the engine block. Is the spring good, is the linkage moving freely?
Keep us posted. Thanks, Mike
Mike 41 Chevy
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Update on rough idle or won't idle. I still won't idle unless i set the idle up high. And, then still lugs down after running a while. Changing the carburetor didn't help. Neither did new AC-104 plugs I think I must have a vacuum leak. Windshield wipers work well, as does vacuum shift. I changed the hose. No difference noted. It idles down so low that you can't tell if it's running as you are coming up to a stoplight. Sometimes its not. It's aggravating and no pleasure to drive this way. I think the next thing is to install new points and condenser. Then a new coil. Then new spark plug wires. I still haven't tried the spraying around the intake for leaks. Will do that too although I did tighten up some on the manifold bolts. Charlie Right now I'm thinking about putting a 45 Colt round through the block. Am too! Put the thing out of it's misery. You know? 
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Save the .45 round for something that really needs it, Charlie!!! Send that old '41 out to me and I'll get it running good. Have to drive it around all summer to make sure it's gonna continue performing well, though. I'll have it back to ya for Christmas. ;-)
I know you changed out the carb, but it still sounds to me like a carb problem. Do you know how to take it down to bare bones, soak it in carb cleaner and blow it out? Then all ya gotta do is get it back together the right way; simple!
Or you could put it on a trailer and bring it over and I'll put ya up in the dungeon till we get it sorted out. I love a good challenge!
Richard
Waverly, IA
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Deal! The onlyest thing is; I don't want to drag it all the way to Colorado. That's a long, long ways from here. I'd have to make sandwiches. Thanks for the offer though. Charlie
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Hi Charlie, My wife says, "I Wonder to much," but could the problem be in the linkage between the vacuum advance and the distributor? I have noticed that there are times that I can loosen the nut on the distributor, that fastens it to the block, and rotate the distributor towards the vacuum advance and it kind of binds up (misaligns). So if the alignment looks poor I loosen up the collar that attaches the vacuum advance to the base of the distributor and realign it.
I think you should also change the points. The spring steel in the points could be weak causing the points to skip when the metal warms. You could also have the wrong points for the distributor. They could be the wrong diameter in relationship to the shaft they ride on. My Chevs of the 40's points come with a larger diameter hole in them so they could wobble a little on the shaft they are to ride on. For this reason I do not use them.
Since you have already changed the carb without solving the problem, what about changing distributors? There are springs in them that can break or weaken with age.
Just Wondering, Mike
Mike 41 Chevy
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Mike, I suppose it could be any of those things as well. I'll check those out also. Thanks for the suggestions. Charlie BTW: About that wondering thing. Sadly, your wife is always right. Is too!
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Hi Charlie, My wife says, "I Wonder to much,"... Mike I think she said that you "wander" too much. It's why she gives you so little "unsupervised time". Then again, I often wonder WHILE I wander... Perhaps it's the same with you. While you're out there getting your cardio work out, ya gotta do something with the brain, too. ;-) Sorry I can't help you, Charlie; can't afford to drive over to your house to fix it... Keep plunking away at it; gonna surprise you at the simplicity of the problem when you figure it out. Is too! BTW, have you put a tach/dwell meter and a vacuum gauge on it to see what the distributor and vacuum are doing from idle to high rev and back? And how they change when the engine heats up?
Richard
Waverly, IA
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Richard, Strange as it may seem, me being a highly recognized master mechanic and all (no nods, please. It's plum embarassin'), I don't have a vacuum gauge. I'm going to get one soon. Sounds like something I need to have in the tool chest. Any suggestions as to type and where I can get one? Anybody? Thanks, Charlie BTW: Mike may have what he thinks is unsupervised time but I bet he carries a mobile phone with him as part of the deal. 
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Richard, Strange as it may seem, me being a highly recognized master mechanic and all (no nods, please. It's plum embarassin'), I don't have a vacuum gauge. I'm going to get one soon. Sounds like something I need to have in the tool chest. Any suggestions as to type and where I can get one? Anybody? Thanks, Charlie BTW: Mike may have what he thinks is unsupervised time but I bet he carries a mobile phone with him as part of the deal. A vacuum gauge is a pretty simple devise and can be picked up at any auto parts store, Sears, Walmart, K-Mart... It doesn't have to be expensive to do the job. And the ones from the "Mart" stores are likely from the same manufacturer as the ones from the auto parts stores. I'm betting Mike's wife also has cameras set up around the property just so she can get assistance to him quickly if anything goes wrong... ;-) BTW, I know we have people on here who can tune an engine with a match book cover, a pocket knife, socket wrench and a screw driver along with a good ear. I can, too, most of the time, but when I come across a problem like yours, I really do appreciate some good equipment to give me some answers. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the timing light. It helps to see how the timing changes from idle to high rev and if it's different when the engine gets hot.
Last edited by RichardJ; 06/25/13 05:31 PM.
Richard
Waverly, IA
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I think you should also change the points. The spring steel in the points could be weak causing the points to skip when the metal warms. You could also have the wrong points for the distributor. They could be the wrong diameter in relationship to the shaft they ride on. My Chevs of the 40's points come with a larger diameter hole in them so they could wobble a little on the shaft they are to ride on. For this reason I do not use them.
There are springs in them that can break or weaken with age.
Just Wondering, Mike Sorry, Mike...Wrong points won't fit to my understanding...Bigger hole hole is to compensate for a different uf capatsitor ( hence no "pitting" )...Heat won't change the spring tension, either....A loose or broken advance spring will usually prevent the motor from even starting at all...A wobble of the dist. shaft means you need a new bushing/rebuild ( it won't idle smoothly )...Kevin
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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You can find a good vacuum gauge on eBay...Go with Sun...
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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A wobble of the dist. shaft means you need a new bushing No bushings are used in the distributor body for the distributor shaft.   
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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It was not unusual for the distributor to have a slight wobble - even when new. This is due the the distributor having a rather loose fit in the block.
Gene Schneider
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Perhaps not in a '41...I've found them in in later models...Rebuilt with fresh bushings always made a world of difference...at idle. Sometimes it was hard to tell if they were even still running...Dwell angle was a solid as a rock...I always give the grease "cap' a twist, every week or so...
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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I've found them in in later models What later models?
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Around '46 thought '49, you'll find points that ain't right...There was a change...Go to the parts store and 50% of the time you'll get the wrong ones...Just ask Gene...
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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Kevin, I think that may have been owing to the reverse polarity switch necessitated a different set of points in the distributor. The ground was, I think, obtained through the polarity switch. I know that without the polarity switch, I have to ground the distributor to the block - or something - to achieve continuity. I believe the above is what Gene was educating us on and not the quality of points. Best, Charlie
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Sorry. J.D....I meant "newer" models...Say that a lot... There all older models to me... Charlie, I think your still having carb problems...Next time, put a piece of tape or what not on the one you just took off so you don't put the same same one back on... If'n it's not a vacuum leak, you probably have idle passage problem...Or your right about the other...The thing is "jinxed"...
Last edited by kevin47; 06/28/13 12:55 AM.
1947 Fleetmaster Sport Coupe VCCA # 47475
If it's not wearing a Bowtie...It's not properly dressed...!
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