VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Fusible Link Installation

Greetings,
Have a question regarding recommendations on the installation of a "fusible link" on my 1931 Chevrolet. I would like to install some protective device should there be a short in the system - I have a battery disconnect but would like just one more level of protection in case I cannot get to the disconnect in time.
I have been to my local auto parts store and noticed there are several types of devices. There is an in line fuse holder that takes the glass tube fuses, or a heavy copper plate with a fuse mounted in it among other options.
Need a little help in determining the correct device. Any recommendations on the type and how others have mounted them onto their car. I assume I need a 15 Amp fuse?
The Model A guys can purchase a nifty little fuse that attaches cleanly to the top of the starter but could not find anything in the Filling Station catalog.
Help.
John Lanning

Are you aware of the fuse that is on the back of the light switch?

I have the fuse at the light switch, but I was hoping to have a fuse on the hot wire to the amp from the starter/battery. Had a scare a while back when the hot wire from the amp to the ignition switch shorted out and caused a whole lot of smoke and melted the wire completly. My thought was if I had a fuse link ahead at this hot wire it would have burned out before the wire would have shorted out. I suppose we all may have been there before.
John

The Fuse that JD mentions is all your car needs until you add additional equipment such as Signals, Fog Lights etc.. The inline style is just fine and should be sized, (Amps), according to device needs. Generally you can't go wrong with 15 Amp. for most lighting appliances. Radios should be Fused according to the Device manufacturer. Al W.

Certainly the fuses are there to protect the accessories, like the in-line fuse to my turn signal switch. Was just wanting to add the extra protection of a fuse at the battery source, before the amp meter....
Appreciate the comments!
Thanks,
John

Inline fuse and holder > 40, 50, 60 & more amps

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-MIDI-...SE-HOLDER-WITH-40-AMP-FUSE-/321118877099

Have a nice evening

Since you already have a battery disconnect and with a fuse on the hot line of the light switch and the amp meter, installing another fuse between the battery and the amp meter is probably redundant.

The fusible link was installed close to the starter so it would go first before entering the passenger compartment. The fusible link was designed based on the original equipment of a vehicle, not to be retrofitted. It also is meant to burn through or melt. If there is anything around you could still have a thermal incident. I would recommend an inline fuse or breaker close to the starter. They have sealed (waterproof) ones available. Just make sure you use a good quality fuse. I work in the future electrical design for GM and we have seen several failures of poor quality fuses not blowing when they should and causing damage to electrical components.

Hello 31 Chevy Guy,
Take a look at the resetable circuit breakers used for marine applications such as circuit protection used for an anchor winch. They are waterproof and may be mounted under the hood near starter or battery. They have a reset lever and a button to manually trip to open the circuit. I had two unprotected winches and always felt nervous about the hot lead from the battery somehow shorting on something. I found the breakers at a marine surplus called Sailors Exchange. I was at their store because it was nearby but you may find a source online. One thing to remember if you choose used surplus- verify the mechanical function and continuity or you might get an open one that won't reset.