VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 Charging system 6 volt

well noticed the last time I fired up the ole chev she wasn't charging,so I tried another generator,but same thing,so I took the cover off of the voltage regulator and touched the contacts alittle and wala it Started charging,so I put the other generator back on and she's charging up a storm.took her out for a drive and she was happy...guess that's what happens when they sit idle for a while....

Sooooo, does this mean you are finished??????

Well, yeah...I'd guess so...In a kinda round about way...The neat part was how he did it all with just a screw-driver and a pair of pliers...Just kidding...We need to get him a Volt/Ohm Meter (VTVM) for Christmas...

48heavychevy -

You may hava a bad voltage regulator. Sometimes the cutout relay does not close to allow the system to receive a charge from the generator. Other times the cutout relay closes and does not open, which will cause the generator to overcharge, possibly overheat, and sling soldier off of the armature. See the twin solder trail inside my generator ...


I ended up having a new generator built and mated to a new voltage regulator.

You should polarize the generator each time you replace it, before you start the engine for the first time. Use a short jumper wire to flash a momentary connection (less than 1 second) from the B terminal of the regulator to the A terminal.

A member of another forum gave me this proceedure to check the condition of a 12v voltage regulator. The info is good for 6v also, except for the reference to voltage reading at the battery.

"Take the cover off the voltage regulator and see if the contacts behind the "B" terminal close when the engine is started and the RPM raised somewhat above idle. I'm going to predict that they do not close. Be careful that you don't touch anything inside the regulator as you remove the cover- - - -it's steel, and one momentary short circuit is all it takes to fry stuff inside the regulator.

"If the cutout relay is not closing, disconnect the Battery lead from the regulator, and use a piece of clean business card stock or a slice cut from a 3X5 inch index cards to burnish the points, all three sets of them. DO NOT USE A FILE OR SANDPAPER ON THE POINTS! All it takes is a very slight amount of oxidation on the point surfaces to keep the generator from charging. Once that is done, reconnect the Bat. wire, and use a short jumper wire to flash a momentary connection (less than 1 second) from the B terminal of the regulator to the A terminal. You'll get a moderate arc flash- - - -that's normal. Thos "polarizes" the generator, and should make it charge when the engine is started again. Voltage at the Armature terminal of the generator will rise above battery voltage, the cutout relay will close, and current will flow into the battery to keep it charged. Try that procedure, and let us know what the results are. With the generator turning and the cutout relay closed, terminal voltage at the battery should be 13.0 volts or more. When the engine stops, the cutout relay points should open so the battery cannot discharge back through the generator. Be ready to pull a battery cable connector off in case the points stick the first time you shut down, so don't tighten the cable clamps more than snug, at least for now."

- Lonnie

I had trouble with that relay in the voltage regulator on my first '41 Chevy (at 16, in 1953). It happened so often I began to leave the cover off the regulator. When she wouldn't charge, stop, raise the hood, press the points together (with the engine running), put the hood down and drive away. 'Worked ever time - - except for the last time. The last time I did it, the regulator shot a bunch of sparks and the engine died. It was after dark and it really impressed me. The next step was a new voltage regulator!

'Wish I had known to clean the points as described above as I really couldn't afford a new voltage regulator at the time (or much of anything else!).