Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Oct 2011
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 87
After regaining oil pressure, took my 490 for a slightly longer than usual (3 block long) drive and promptly blew a tire. Ordered a replacement tire and tube, but am unable to get the old tire off the rim. I can't get a tire tool under the bead and no amount of standing on it will break it loose. Any hints?

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If you want to replace both the tire and the tube, you can use more power to remove the tire from the wheel. First loosen the nuts and remove the wheel rim from the wheel. Put the rim in horisontal level and walk on top of the tire all around the circle to loosen the bead. Use at least three tire tools with 10 cm lenght between each when you work around the circle. I am sure you will be able to get the tire off. When mounting use unperfumed talcum inside the tire and outside all the tube sides. You must pump some air into the tube before using the tools carefully to replace the tire into the rim. Be aware the air valve must stand straight through the hole in the rim to avoid twist and a new burst.

Be aware the old tubes should be replaced the sooner the better. They are high risk parts. If the tires are old and very hard rubber, replace them as well.

chevy


Solan G, # 32797

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Joined: Oct 2011
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks so much for the quick reply, tomorrow is the only "Cruise In" scheduled in my town this year and I was anxious to drive there. I'll get the tire off one way or the other, then I'll try this method I found on Youtube where he uses only a trash bag, no tire irons! I'll let you know how it works for me.


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This is one type of clincher tyre removal / fitting tool.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/129203.html


JACK
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I may try that. It saves the painting on the rims from being cracked or damaged. But I am wondering about how easy it will be to pass over the last part of the rim.

Agrin chevy


Solan G, # 32797

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Clinchers can be the biggest pain in the rear or one of the easiest tire you will ever change. I suspect the tire may be stuck in the lip of the rim or it has come out on both sides and is catching on the underside lip causing it to not collapse enough to get the first edge over the rim. Try supporting the rim so the tire can stay in the lip on the bottom side. Basicly Clinchers change out much like a bicycle tire. Big difference is the wide flat type bead that can almost touch together making it hard to get "unclenched". Rust inside the rim can make it tough as well. Try supporting the rim while laying flat with small chunks of 2x4s. Just on the rim, not on the tire and rim. This should help get it started. After doing all 5 on my 490 I got very fast at changing them and can now do one in about 10-15 min. The only tools I use are two tire spoons which I bought at Tractor Supply, or any auto parts store can get them. When you get it changed, make sure your wheel clamps are good and snug and the bump on the rim fits inside the area on the wheel, Also check the rim is evenly spaced around the wheel as too tight on one clamp at first will make the rim off center and bunce up and down going down the road. I tighten each one down just a turn or two at a time and keep checking as I go.


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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Posts: 87
I ended up taking the tire to a local shop where they charged me a hefty $40 to mount it. I tried for about 2 hours to do it myself, but it seemed way too small for the rim. Not sure what I was doing wrong. Even the tire shop guy claimed it took an hour and wasn't easy.


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