VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 Correct run in procedure

Hello everyone,
I was hoping someone can tell me what the recommended run in procedure is for a newly reconstructed motor.
I installed a new camshaft and camshaft bearings and with the documents that came with the new shaft, it said to run the motor at 1500-2000 rpm for about 20 minutes.
Thats fine. But I have also installed new pistons, rings, bearings, have had the crank ground to 10 thou, and of course the cylinders have been bored to accomodate the new pistons.
So what I need to know is if I run the engine for 20 minutes at 1500-2000rpm to seat the new crankshaft, is that going to be a different run in procedure for how the rest of the motor should be run in?
Your help would be appreciated.
Thank you all
Ron

Last time I did an overhaul, the instructions were the same, run it for 20 min with SAE 50 oil, then dump the oil and filter, refill with the correct oil weight and then go easy on the engine for the first couple of hundred miles until the rings seat.

My recommendation would be to start with something like a 5W-30 oil. Chevrolet used s straigtt #10 years ago for break-in. Do run at the higher speed as mentioned for break-in of the camshaft ssurfaces. I would add a break--in additive with ZDDP to the first oil change as some of the new camshafts and lifters are not properly hardened and need all the protection they can get. Avoid long periods of running at a slow idle speed or lugging theengine. A little faster is better than too slow. Would change oil after 500 miles and then stay with a 10W-30 - especially if it a splash lubricated engine and they require a thinner oil.

Look up Chevgene's recommendation on this subject. He posted it a little while back. Just go to his profile and look at his posts.

I would dump 5 quarts of 10-30 erl in it and, after getting the timing, rocker arm settings, etc as close to proper feeler gauge settings as practical and that erl is freely flowing to all the rocker arms and a good flow on the overpass, run it up and down the road at about 35-40 for a while. Let the engine pull instead of having a "no load" condition on it. It will heat up. Don't worry. As long as it has water and erl in it, you won't do any damage. The heat will actually help everything seat. After several short runs of about 10 miles or so, and rechecking the rocker clearances now and then, It will gradually cease to run but a little above the thermostat setting. (As Shawn said it will take a couple hundred miles.) Change the erl and and check the tappets again. Then drive it.

But before you do the above, strongly consider Chevgene's' recommendation. He and I don't always agree on everything but I acquiesce to his much older (dinosaurs were around) experiences and expertise (specialized knowledge, skill and ability).

Best, Charlie

BTW Shawn: That 50 weight erl recommendation is the first time I heard of that. Just seems too heavy for a 216. But what do I know. You may be right.

I can't believe the #50. You are trying to force a film of oil through bearings with only .001" clearence, rings tightly pressing against the cylinder walls with zero space, and on and on. The dipper oiling system relies on the rod dippers to break-up oil into a mist for lubrication of the cylnder walls and camshaft. In a 216 with properly fitted parts the 10W=30 is just perfect AFTER break-in.

My apologies, I should never respond before coffee in the morning. I failed to say this was on a 1972 402 big block. And yes, break in procedure clearly stated 50W for the first 20 min, then dump and fill with 10W30 and change the oil filter. However I can't recall the source. Could have been from some of the many Edelbrock parts I installed. Can't recall much more after some 30 years.

Even for a big block I would never want to start the engine with #50 oil in it for break-in. The viscosity of #50 at room temperature would be equal to 10W-30 at 10 below zero.
Note there is no "W" after #30 or #40 or #50 oils as they are not tested for pour qualities below 50 degrees. They are a Summer or hot weather oil.

I would always suggest doing what the parts manufacturer recommends. I too was surprised by the call for 50W, and that is why I remember it. In any case, my engine broke in perfectly and ran for many years, never using a drop of oil.

Crane Cams 99003-1 or Lucas Oil 10063-1 additive in the oil for added protection on initial start up.

shawng, you're a lucky, lucky man

Thank you one and all for your advice,I now have a fair idea what to do.
One thing that bothers me though is the type of oil. In my other '48, I run a straight sae 30 monograde oil. Some yrars ago, I contacted Caltex or Shell, can't really remember which one, and told them what the manual recommended and what I was using, ie 30 mono. I was told that what I should be using was a multigrade oil and once again I forget what grade. The point is though that I took their advice and used their recommended multigrade oil with disastrous results. Soon after using it The car started to blow smoke, I was using oil with the end result being that I had to overhaul the engine again.The cylinder walls were like mirrors.
After the overhaul, I went back to 30 mono with no further problems. Hence my trepidation in using a 10- 30 oil.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Cheers
Ron

Maybe the problem you experienced was not owing to the 10-30.

As Gene has pointed out many times, the current oils are much better than the ones available in 1948 and that the 10w-30 allows for better flow of oil at wider heat ranges.

I recommend the 10w30. As to brand, merely look at the letter in the circle on the back of the bottle and buy the cheapest one with the same letter(s). Also run a 170 or 180 thermostat.

But I realize that having experienced failure once is a great hurdle to overcome in the future. Especially when one can blame something relatively simple as the oil. Instead of not using the same oil again, I recommend not using the same mechanic or machine shop.
Regards,
Charlie

The problem sure was not caused by the 10W-30 oil unless there was something wrong with the oil.
I have run 10W-30 in all my cars for the last 40 years with no problem.....that includes rebuilt engines, new engines, and a 1950 that has the original rings, 55,000 miles, and burns no more oil than they did when new.

Hello to all,
Once again, thank you for your advice and comments. And yes it is hard to get my head around using a multigrade oil again, but I know you people know more about these engines than I do so I have some thinking to do.
Many thanks again, your advice and comments are sure appreciated.
Ron

Ron, you will not have any problems using single weight oil where you live. I would use SAE 20 until you decide to go to a heavier oil in your summer months. I doubt that multi-grade oil caused your troubles but I think a mind at ease is worth it. They are taking the zinc out of oils here in the States, I don't know about your country, so I use an oil with diesel grading. or use ZDDP as an additive.

Hello J, thank you for that info. At the moment I am using sae 30 mono. I have checked around all the oil suppliers I can find , but cannot get a 20 grade oil. When I last redid the motor I used the 30 grade and have had no problems since, so I think I will stick with that. I really am not comfortable even considering the multigrade oil as suggested, even though you have no problems over there with it. As you say it may not have been the oil that caused my problems, buuut!!!
Thank you J for your comments.
Ron

My machine shop has recomended thatI include a bottle of Zinc additive with EVERY oil change on all my old flat tappet motors.Not enough Zinc in todays oils to properly coat the cam and lifters. I lost a lobe on a 427 2 weeks ago after 20 minutes of 2000 to 2500 RPM break in and was using Royal Purple break in oil.Unfortunetly, after that, the car had to idle in and out of the fairgrounds for 3 days straight and I think thats what did it in.
Went to a different cam manufacturer and they recomend straight weight 30, non detergent oil for break-in with a bottle of Zinc additive. I have rebuilt many motors in the last 25 years and this was the first one that I lost a cam in.

Witch manufacture produced the camshaft ? Wasn't made in china was it ?

While a zinc additive is necessary during break-in, no cam lobe should wear off in that short time.
Chevrolet sold and recommended the GM EOS for cam break-in since 1957......for the first 1000 miles.

I like all the different oil recomendations for break-in ...#50. #30 and so on. A #30 oil rated for service SM would be equal to a straight #30 when hot. Even the oils rated SJ oil from before 1970, which had twice the zinc of todays oils would require a zinc additive for break-in.
I have a friend/member with a 427 truck engine that has the same problem.

Gene:
Do you think this problem might have more to do with the quality of the parts more than the oil ? Over the years I've seen some real questionable parts ( quality wise ) out there....

The vast majority of recent problems is poor quality parts. High wear rates on cams has happened many times because of lack of proper hardening. Unfortunately manufacturers often attempt to blame oil and assembly procedures instead of stepping up and fixing their problem. It is part of what gives the automotive industry a black eye and less than confidence by customers. That is exacerbated by the outright fraudulent claims of some people.

From what I have "studied" the problem is with both the soft cam and the poor quality lifters.

Even the infamous 1977-79 GM 305 engine soft camshafts lasted 30 to 50 thousand miles.

Hello again to you all,
I have taken on board what has been said to me about adding zinc to the oil. After some searching over here, (Australia), I can't find any.
However there are a number of places in the USA where this stuff can be bought. I have been looking at a product called ZDDPlus.
Can anyone tell me if this is any good or would you recommend another product?
Thanks
Ron

Back again, the oil I am currently using is rated SF/CC. I don't know what that means except that it suitable for engines prior to 1988.
Cheers
Ron

The SF rating would have been the oil required for engines in the early '80's. It would have been the best oil (back then) and required for new car engines at that time. Every few years the oils are improved and the last letter goes up through the alphabet. If you were to look in an owners manual of a 1986 car it would say to use oil with that rating. It would have a full additive package with a fair amount of dtergent and zinc. It would be inferior to todays SM oil. Since the SF as sold oil has been inproved in steps to meet its short comings and the requirements of newer engine.

You could go to the mobiloil.com site and look for their question and answer section. They also give the specs of their oil
The SF would be replaced by SG replaced by SH replaced by SJ (SJ had the most zinc) replaced byS H replaced by SM. SJ had 1600 parts per million of zinc. SH had 1200 and SL 800.
You might check with a Chevrolet or GM dealer and see if the GM Engine Oil Supplement for new engines is available in Austrailia. Or the new camshaft additive.
The SF isn't terrible, I wouldn't use it in a 2010 engine, I don't know how much zinc it had, but if you have a new camshaft I would use a zinc aditive for at least a few thousand miles. For 2011 there will be another new rating for the latest oil. From what I have read in one oil company site it can not be used in pre 2011 engines.

The CC is a diesel engine rating. If I remember correctly that was a light duty rated diesel oil at that time.

There are several zinc additives available in this country at this time but I have no idea of their quality.