VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Valve Springs

An exhaust valve spring just broke on my '30 sedan. I need to replace it ASAP. Some parts suppliers list a unique replacement for years '29 through '32, while Chevys of the 40s list one that is good for '28 through '52. Local NAPA stores don't list anything for a '30, but do list SEP VS424 for '52.

Does anyone know about the interchangeability? Could I use the NAPA spring for a '52 in my '30?

Hi Bob
The valve springs are different for 1929-33, 34-37 and 38-52 Chevrolet. The 38-52 spring is sold by a few vendors for the 29-33 engine and can be used on the 29-33 Chevrolet if is is for the 216 and not the 50-52 235 engine as these are to stout of a spring for the push rods and could bend them. Here is a link http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_54chevyparts/00/103.HTM to the old onlike Chevrolet manuals website link http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/ for the 1929-54 Chevrolet parts catalog showing the different years and spring sizes. I do have in stock the 1929-33 Chevrolet correct reproduction valve spring set of 12 priced at $45.00 plus the caps & keys if needed. I also have the valve cover gasket if needed. If interested, you can e-mail me at bob@marxparts.com or visit my website at www.marxparts.com for other parts if needed. Hope this helps. Thanks Bob@marxparts

Thank you Bob at marxparts.

Isn't this chat room great! In only a couple of hours I had a knowledgeable answer to my question, a source for parts, and had completed a call to Bob's wife and had the parts ordered.

Besides, NAPA didn't have the questionable springs in stock, and probably could not have gotten them as quickly as I will get the correct ones from marxparts.

I was hoping to take the old '30 on a shakedown tour with our local VCCA Heart of Route 66 Region and HCCA group this weekend, but that won't happen. We are leaving for the Southern Spring Tour in Alabama in a week, so I have some wrench turning to do in the next few days, but at least I know I have the correct parts I need on the way in a timely manner. If everything goes according to the modified plan, we will have the old girl running and checked out and ready for the Southern Spring Tour.

I have a NOS spring. E-mail me bwbugay@aol.com

Hi Bob,

Just an FYI, I have talked to Chev's of the 40 and told them that what they are selling is miss leading in the past.

Now, once you get the springs have you changed springs before with out taking the head off? NAPA has a nice tool for compressing the springs which will make your life easier. Also one other thing, don't use to much air press to hold the valves closed when changing. I think I was using 120 psi and I think that is too much. Maybe Gene or JYD will know the right PSI to use.

Bruce

Another way to change the offending broken spring which works quite well is as follows:

After removing all spark plugs,turn the engine over until
the piston in the cylinder with the broken spring is at
top dead centre.Get some window sash cord,and pack as much
as you can until it is tight into the combustion chamber.
Then compress and remove the broken spring,and re-fit the
new spring,retainer and keeper key.Pull the sash cord
out,replace the valve cover with a new gasket.and you're
ready for the road.No need for the chore of head,side plate
removal.

Hope this old trick helps you out.

Thanks for the suggestions about how to replace the spring with out removing the head. Since I wasn't sure about the age & condition of the other springs, I'm going to replace all of them. I have the head off and waiting on the new springs from marxparts to arrive early next week. That gives me time to clean things up and be ready to put it back together. I have a few other things to do while it is apart, plus I wanted to see the condition of the insides.

When I bought this unrestored car about 6 years ago it had been sitting mostly unused for about 25 years. I've put over 3,000 miles on it since then with only minor items to clean up, got HPOFC certification and 2,000 mile Touring oval. I doesn't use oil and has been purring like a kitten until it started rough this week. The cylinder walls look like new and the valves all look good. Some of the gaskets definitely need replacing. There is a little carbon to clean out, but I was very pleased with what I saw when the head came off. I apparently had a good overhaul sometime in the past. I think I will ride easier now knowing that all of the valve springs have been replaced.

I wasn't aware of how the combustion chamber is shaped and the convoluted path from the spark plug hole to the valve until I started looking in doing the replacement without pulling the head. It sounds like either the compressed air or cord packing are good solutions if you need to do a quick fix.

Again, thanks for the suggestions. This chat site is great!

What is a good torque specification when tightening the head bolts on a '30?

With used head bolts, 50 to 55 pounds.

I'm glad Bob's '30 is on the road to recovery. Fortunately or unfortunately he didn't miss his HCCA/VCCA tour because it was cancelled due to rain. Bob's car came from Stillwater, OK where I live. It came from the youngest of the Ricker clan who were involved in the auto trade from the early 1900's as a dealer, mechanic and parts store owner. I think Gene Ricker bought it at the then famous Claremore, OK antique and classic car auction in the mid to late 1950's. If Bob and I can put some details together, it would make a dandy G&D article.
By the way Bob (or other nearby VCCA members), I can supply used many used '29 and '30 parts with about an hour's notice.

The old '30 sedan is back on the road again after a valve spring replacement. I received the new set of valve springs from marxparts USPS priority mail Saturday afternoon after ordering them Thursday afternoon. The post office does some things right.

I noticed a loose solder joint on the radiator bracket while taking the head off, so pulled the radiator as well. 3 of the 4 joints were loose when I got into it, so the radiator shop got a job. I had it back Monday afternoon, and had everything back together and running in the shop Tuesday night.

Took her out for a test drive tonight (Wednesday) and ready to load her on the trailer and head to Alabama for the Southern Spring Tour this week end.

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions.

I am looking for a valve spring tool for my 29 chev.Is it the Balkamp #bk7769189 from Napa?

I'm not familiar with the Balkamp tool from NAPA, but I found a very usable valve spring tool at Harbor Freight for about $10. It can be used when not removing the head, but also works well when the head is off. It has a pair of spring loaded claws to grip the lower coils while a screw driven bracket compresses the retainer and top of the spring.