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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 78
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 78 |
This is my 1955 Chevy 3600 with 235 and 4spd. The engine was rebuilt around 1988. The truck was driven til 1998 and parked till I got it out last year. Prior to 1998 it began to develop this popping and spitting while sitting at idle. Last year I gave it a tune up and adjusted the timing. Now, adjusting the timing seemed to cure most, if not all of it. It's back again and seemingly worse. Last night it seemed as if it was effecting the driveability of the truck. Low speeds and around town only.
Upon reading the shop manual, there are many things that could cause this. I did a tune-up on it last year so I would think I could rule that out. The valves were mentioned and it has been awhile since I checked them. I think they would be a little loose if anything. I have never added any lead to the gas, so..... One thing did peak my interest. They talked about the exhaust or muffler being plugged. I know that my exhaust is in terrible shape and probably had been going down hill back when it was last run in '97-'98. While it was running I checked it by putting my hand at the tail pipe and I barely got a 'whisper' of air out of there. I was able to put my hand on the tail pipe behind the muffler and it never was hot. The bottom of the muffler is mostly blown out. I banged on it some, while the truck was running at idle, and it seemed as though some, if not all of the popping went away briefly.
I'm sorry this is so long. I am thinking about cutting the exhaust off just ahead of the muffler and see what happens tonight. It will be loud, but then I'll know. Any ideas? Thanks,Scott
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1 |
Hi Scott, I'm voting for the valves. You need to conduct a compression check. Also spray some WD-40 or similar lubricant on the valve stems as they exit the head. Do this while running. It is a good idea to add 1 QT of transmission fluid to the crankcase and run the engine for at least 1 hour and then drain and replace with 10-30 detergent oil.  
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 78
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 78 |
Are you thinking that the valves just need adjusted and or lubed? Is it more likely that they are burnt? Thanks,Scott
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1 |
Valves are notorious for causing your problem and the 1st remedy is to insure the stems are well lubricated and not the cause of the problem. This is a progression. After we do these maintenance jobs and do a compression check we go to the next step which could be a wet test, or----?
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 78
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 78 |
Thanks for the info. I found some leftover Lead Additive in the garage last night and I might add that. Can you even buy that anymore? I probably should get a compression tester. Never had one and always thought I should. What should the readings be? I will try to spray some WD40 on the valves tonight and see what that does. Thanks,Scott
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 78
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 78 |
That's very interesting. I remember being told that if you don't use it then you will burn your valves. I feel better now. I'm going to check my valves AND my distributor. Something tells me that it could be getting worn and throwing things off.....maybe.... Thanks,Scott
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42
ChatMaster - 6,000
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ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42 |
Your Chev was built before they started putting lead in the fuel so proper unleaded (not E10 ?) is as close to the proper fuel you need.
Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,295 Likes: 2
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: May 2005
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Tony, If I'm not mistaken leaded gasoline has been around since the 1920's 
p.k.
1956 BEL AIR 2 DOOR HARDTOP
I've spent most of my money on Booze,Women and mechanical things. The rest I just Wasted........
Remember , I'm not Always Right. But I'm Never Wrong !
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42
ChatMaster - 6,000
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ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42 |
OK OK
I stand corrected.
Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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