|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
|
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1 |
If it sounds good with the 5-W-30, it will be even better with the 10-W-30.
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
|
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
If you ran the engine for less than an hour the oil never got really hot so 5W-30 or 10W-30 would make no difference. If the oil pressure gauge is accurate you have another problem. Perhaps too much SeaFoam got into the oil, the by-pass valve in the oil pump is stuck or a main bearing is burnt out or all the mains are very loose (doubt the last two).If in doubt about the 5W-30 add a quart of straight #40 and see what happens. Last summer I ran all 5W-30 in my 1950. The oil pressure when hot was exactly the same as it is with 10W-30 except it didn't peg the needle when cold.
Gene Schneider
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,866
ChatMaster - 1,500
|
OP
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,866 |
Thanks Ray & Gene. I'm going to test it again this afternoon and see what happens. Going to add a qt of #40. Opps. Forgot to add that I'm running it with a water hose into the water pump and out to a drain from the top. No radiator. Should be OK. not? It comes out not even luke warm.
Last edited by jerrygolf; 03/12/10 02:07 PM.
I think I'm a fairly wise person because I'm smart enough to realise I'm not too bright.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
|
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
If your running cold water thru it the oil is never getting up near normal operating temperature....forget the #40 and find the real cause of the low oil pressure. 5W-30 0r 10W-30 should give you at least 10 pounds of pressure at idle an 15 at higher engine speeds.
Gene Schneider
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,866
ChatMaster - 1,500
|
OP
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,866 |
Thanks, will do. Planned on dropping the pan anyway.
I think I'm a fairly wise person because I'm smart enough to realise I'm not too bright.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,866
ChatMaster - 1,500
|
OP
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,866 |
Started the engine up, ran for awhile and drained the new oil out and it came out as black as an ace of spades and quite thin. Will leave it this way until I can drop the pan. Now to get the spare '31 running.
I think I'm a fairly wise person because I'm smart enough to realise I'm not too bright.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,866
ChatMaster - 1,500
|
OP
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,866 |
Note that the last post was on 3-16-10. Dropped the pan to see if I could find out why there was very little oil pressure. The bottom of the pan had a lot of heavy gook in it. The oil screen was close to 100% plugged and only a little hole in the screen for oil to get through. My initial thought was to get the oil pressure working and then close it up to save as a spare. Checked each rod and could move them back and forth by hand. Dropped the #2 rod and it looked in perfect shape as did the crankshaft. There were 2 shims on 1 side and 1 on the other. Dropped the 2nd main bearing and that also looked in good shape except for a very small piece of babbit missing no bigger than 2 stick pin heads on the bottom. Dropped #5 and same as #2. I changed my mind and will take the head off and grind valves and put in new rings as I think I will have a reliable motor when I get done. But first I'm going to go through the spare '31 now so I have a good spare for that one. Just one thought, if the bottom mains look good, can I expect the top to also be good without checking them?
I think I'm a fairly wise person because I'm smart enough to realise I'm not too bright.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
|
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
Which engine is being described? The 1931, 1949 or the 1952?
Gene Schneider
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,866
ChatMaster - 1,500
|
OP
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,866 |
Oh Oh. The '49. The '52 sounds great in the '49 and the present one in the '31 was put together just to get it on the road and sounds great at 35 mph but I want a spare just in case so I'll do my other '31 first.
I think I'm a fairly wise person because I'm smart enough to realise I'm not too bright.
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42
ChatMaster - 6,000
|
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42 |
Jerry In most cases the lower main bearings and the upper conrod bearings do all the work so wear the most. If the crank is smooth there generally isnt much of a problem providing the babbit hasnt pounded out. That piece of babbit missing is not a good sign but may have been a air bubble from manufacture. Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,866
ChatMaster - 1,500
|
OP
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,866 |
Thanks Tony, I'm gonna cap it up and work on the '31 next week to have it ready for the summer in case the one in the car goes bad. Then work on the '49.
I think I'm a fairly wise person because I'm smart enough to realise I'm not too bright.
|
|
|
|
|