VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc Adjusting 34 Standard Brakes & Clutch?

I've collected all the repair manuals that I know of and have searched this site for information on adjusting my '34's clutch and brakes. They were completely rebuilt about 20 years ago (no miles since) but the car has set all that time. The brakes do work but don't seem to return back after the pedal is pressed. The clutch is somewhat the same way. Both have the return spring in place. Both pedals seem a little draggy and do not have as smooth of an operation as I would expect although I do not have anything to compare them with.

The manuals I have and have read online don't contain much information. Could someone suggest where I might find some detailed instructions on making adjustments?

Your replies will be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Before dealing with adjustments, I suggest you make sure that the shafts and linkage is well lubricated and free from rust and corrosion.

Chipper,

Yours was one of the suggestions I anticipated. Although the underside is fairly clean, it has set for a long time so that may be the problem. The manuals I have say lubricate, but not how, exactly where or with what. Could you give me some more information so I'm not guessing. Thanks!

I use a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster first. It is in an aerosol can with a small applicator tube. Apply as best you can to the shaft or side of the bushing. Then move the parts and reapply the oil. As long as the movement improves and the dark rusty oil continues to come out keep oiling and working the parts. After it appears to be freed then use a light lubricating oil from 10 to 30 weight.

The flexible cables that run from the linkages to the backing plates need to be lubricated. Remove the flex cable from the backing plate and the rod linkage. Then squirt thin oil (10 wt)into the flex sheath and work the cable in and out. When you reassemble make sure the housing on the backing plate is greased well also.
Let us know how you make out!

Guys,

Thanks for the suggestions! I will probably get to the brakes next week. I'll let you know how things work out.

I actually spent some time this afternoon looking the brakes over. It looks like the problem is in the main left to right (1" dia.) linkage rod which has three pivot points. I used PB blaster on all the brake linkages - twice. After soaking for about 7 hours I can't tell any difference.

I'm curious what kind of bushing are on the main rod at the three pivot points. I'm wondering if it would make sense to disconnect the four cable links to the brakes, the foot brake linkage, and the hand brake linkage, then unbolt the main rod from the frame (about 10 bolts) and bench check each pivot point to determine where the problem is.

Also, from reading my manuals, it appears the proper lubricant is engine oil. Is this done by capillary action? I don't see any specific place to oil these pivot points.

I have had to remove the cross rod to get the bushings freed up. I understand that some of the bushings used were white metal (which swells with time) so it may be a chore without taking it apart.

Chipper,

By "taking it apart" do you mean just taking the cross rod off and working the pivot links (or whatever they are called) till they move freely, or actually taking them off the rod. If so, how are they held on. I haven't looked that close yet.

If I take them off, would I chance ruining the bushings and if I did, how would I replace them?

Thanks for the previous replies and any further help!

Yes taking the rod completely off. On the ones I have messed with the two halves of the brackets are riveted together. So far I have not had to take them apart. Also it is necessary to remove one or both of the lever ends and then weld them back on when finished.

Chipper,

I've been away for 12 hours so just getting back - thanks for the reply.

On my car the three pivot brackets are bolted to the frame so I will remove them with the crossbar and hopefully free up the brackets from the bar on my workbench. I don't see where I would have to re-weld anything at this point unless I decided to drive the brackets off the end of the rod. If I did that I would have to grind the end of the bar where it has been hammer riveted to the bracket. Then I see where welding would be required.

Or am I missing something? Also did you ever replace the bushings?

It is only necessary to take the end arm off if you need to remove the bushings and retainers from the shaft.

I have not replaced any bushings so far. Only worked the bushings/shafts on the work bench. Even if replacing the bushings I understand that 2 piece bushings can be made so the ends don't have to be removed. Replacement bushings are available for some of the crossbars but think that they are one piece.

A friend replaced the bushings on his '31 and took off the end arms then welded them back on. Worked well for him.

Chipper,

Thanks again. I will let you know how things go.

Well I have discovered the cross link is not the problem. I unhooked the hand and foot brakes plus the front and rear brakes and it moves easily. So I have hooked the foot and hand brake back up plus the two front brakes and it still works easily. I ran out of time before trying the rear brakes but I assume that one or both of them will be the problem.

I did notice a couple of weeks ago when mounting the tires, prior to trailering it home, that the right rear drum seemed tight. We tried to loosen the brake and remove the drum but were unsuccessful. So we went ahead and mounted the tires and were able to push & winch the car onto the trailer. I think that is where the problem will be.

When trying to remove the rear drum, we couldn't see where to tap it with a hammer since the backing plate lips over the drum. It's been a long time since I have worked with drum brakes so maybe I have forgotten a trick to drive the drum off. Any suggestions?

To remove the rear drum it is necessary to remove the rear axle as the drum is behind the axle flange.
If you have a 1934 shop manual see page 63. If not I will send you the page of instructions.

Chevgene,

Thanks for the reply. I went to the online Chevy Manual website and read the instructions you recommended for drum & axle removal. What a pain to just check the brakes! Hopefully I will be able to loosen the brake adjustment to avoid removing the axle. If not - oh well just more education & experience.

In most ways this old car is really simple then I run into something surprisingly complicated. I guess they hadn't figured out how to make things as simple as they were a few years later.

Thank goodness the problem is not in the brake itself. After some brief troubleshooting I figured out the right rear cable would not move. So I took it off and worked it a bit on the bench and finally got it to slide - slowly. But it evidently is really gummed up with dirt and old oil or grease. I have squirted PB blaster down the cable several times and have left it hanging in a vertical position to hopefully get the PB to soak all the way through the cable.

Do you have a suggestion on how to clean the cable inside? Otherwise it looks as good as new.