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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 476
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 476 |
Has anyone experimented and had success with retro-fitting a modern split-type neoprene lip seal in place of the rope type seal used on the 216? I have access to a complete machine and welding shop, but I'd rather not re-invent the wheel if someone else has already done it. I'd sure like to beat that habitual leaking rear main seal when I rebuild my 40 engine.
Mark Yeamans
VCCA #35724
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
I just did an experiment on my 1950 this summer.
The problem is that the present grove the seal sits in is too deep on pre 1955 engines (some 1954's are OK).
I placed a rubber seal in my main bearing cap and it sat so far down that the lip of the seal would have barely contacted the crankshaft surface. I used a nylon tie strap which was about .044" thick behind the seal and this brought it up to the proper level. This also caused the seal to be too long so I ground the ends of the seal to shorten it. There is a large diameter wire used as backing inside of the seal. I ground (sortened) both the top and bottom seal using the cap as a guide.
Then slip the top seal and strap up into the block (with crank installed) or just drop seal and strap into the block and cap and thats all there is to it. Just completed a 900 mile trip and had no leakage.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 91
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 91 |
Here's an article about the Chicago Rawhide 1 piece rear main seal. It will require some machine work, so it's only for those times when a complete rebuild is in the works. But, a pretty good article nonetheless. 1 piece Chicago Rawhide seal
Last edited by K10; 09/21/09 10:07 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
It would be necessary to remove the engine and crankshaft to install that seal.If it ever required replacing at a later date it would also require complete removal of those parts. The article has several errors and the 1940 rear main is the same as a 1941 and up.
That is the type of seal modern engines use but it is retained in a housing at the back of the block and can be replaced by removing the transmission etc......I still see them being replaced but they are much better than a rope seal.
Gene Schneider
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