Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#143786 05/20/09 05:28 PM
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leagl Offline OP
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I know this topic has been discussed many times before, but I have some questions I need help on. As many people experience, the shaft would not loosen up so I had to cut and drill it out. The shaft appears to originally have been 5/16" dia. I have a somewhat decent spring and weight but no damper/valve. I'm going to try to make stainless bushings and a shaft from off the shelf products at the local hardware store. I found a 3/8" O.D. stainless tube that I can cut for the bushings and a 6" bolt I was going to use for the shaft. I know there are many types of stainless and I don't know what type the tube and bolt are made of. My questions are:

1) To press fit a 3/8" bushing what size hole do I need, 3/8, or smaller?. I have a 23/64 drill but that's about .015 smaller than 3/8 and that seems too small.
2) The bolt/shaft is about .006 smaller than the inside diameter of the tube/bushing. Does that sound okay as far as preventing exhaust leaks. It seems a little loose to me.
3) Does anyone have the dimensions of the damper and should it be stainless as well?
4) There seems to be conflicting information on what is open and closed in previous posts. Would closed be that the valve diverts exhaust to the intake?

-or-

5) Should I find a machinist and let them do it right?

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


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ChatMaster - 25,000
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Your 1936 has a completely different looking arangement for the heat riser valve. The 1936 shaft runs from side to side where as the 1937 and up runs from front to back.
The 1935 and 1936 exhaust manifolds are the same. I have a used 1935 here with a stuck heat riser (intake is detached)....I will try to get a look at it in the next day or two if you don't get the demensions.....or I could send you the whole manifold.


Gene Schneider
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leagl Offline OP
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Gene, if you could get dimensions of the valve when you have time, that would be great. I just got my manifolds ceramic powder coated, otherwise, I'd consider purchasing yours. I've seen a few pictures posted on the site but any pictures you have showing the valve setup would be appreciated also.

Larry

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Larry,
I "removed" the flapper valve from the manifold. The rivets were loose anyway and I want to ge rid of the manifold. Send me your address and I will mail the valve to you and then you will have a good sample. You can mail it back to be when done so I can keep it for future reference.
Gene


Gene Schneider
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leagl Offline OP
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Gene, thank you so much for going to all that trouble. I sent you a PM.

Do you know if the heat control spring advertised at The Filling Station (FS-141) for 1937-65 will also work on a 36?

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Larry,
I mailed the valve on Friday. I managed to remove the thermostatic spring and sent it along also. Looks to be reusable. The spring is smaller than the 1937 and up. There is a cover that goes over the spring, held in place by one screw. Couldn't save the cover. Shaft is growing to the casting also.

The automatic heat riser was new for 1933. Had some improvements in 1934 and again in 1935. 1936 was the same as 1935.
This is from the 1935 Engineering;
The exhaust manifold valve thermostat cover has large openings at the top and bottom so that the thermostat is controlled by both the exhaust manifold temperature and the atmospheric temperature surronding the engine. This provides better car performing conditions in cold weather than the more fully enclosed cover of the previous year. When driving at high speeds , the thermostat is on just enough to keep the manifold temperature sufficiently high so that, when the car is brought down to lower speeds, the manifold is hot enough to give the car good flexibilty. A light spring of music wire, added in this cover, exerts pressure on the end of the valve shaft to prevent rattling of the heat valve.

Will find some pictures to send tomorrow.


Gene Schneider
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leagl Offline OP
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Thank you for the information, Gene. I will get the parts back to you, soon. Luckily, I have a good cover for the spring. I was wondering what the purpose was of the music wire spring inside the cover. Now I know.

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You can have the thermostatic spring.....and there is no rush to get the valve back. In fact if you want to use it, its OK.


Gene Schneider
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leagl Offline OP
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Gene, I made the flapper valve last night so I'm sending yours back today. Thank you for the spring. I'm mailing you a picture of your spring and the one I took off my manifold. My spring is about twice the size of the one you sent. Not sure which one I should use, or if it makes a difference.


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