Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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After a piston was in the cylinder, I turned the block 90 degrees and was able to pull the connecting rod by hand down to meet the crankshaft. Then, I put the rod cap on and tightened the nuts.

I don't think tightening the rod caps added to the friction of turning the crank, but they also do not seem loose around the crank. So I am going to leave them alone for now. After I run the engine a little and it loosens up, I'll drop the oil pan and adjust the rod caps so that they are gapped correctly.

Since I don't have the head on yet and I want to keep the cylinders clean, I cut a piece of sheet aluminum to cover the cylinders and used the old head gasket to hold the sheet down. Then, I used a bunch of the 1/2-12 short head bolts (with washers and a pipe spacer) to clamp the lid on the top of the block.

The reason for my concern about cleanliness? Check out the bottom photo. This is the work space that I'm building the engine in. Yes, I have 10 pounds of stuff in a five pound bag. There's no place like home! laugh

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/18/18 11:12 AM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



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That's funny Dean. I remember several years ago I had bought a small sports car and was wanting to show it to folks on another forum, so I took a picture of it in my newly cleaned out and cleaned up garage. Almost all of the comments were related to the supposed disorganization of my garage, it was like the car wasn't even there. I guess one man's organization is another man's nightmare. Whatever, I'm enjoying following along with you on your rebuild.


Jeff

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I looked pretty deep in my garage...Are you sure that's my garage??..Sure looks like it..good
luck


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I can say no matter how disorganize it may appear, every time I have been at Dean's he knew exactly where his stuff was hiding....

Dean - looking forward to hearing it run - are you taking both trucks to San Jose?


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Thanks for the kind words, Mike.

Yes, both trucks want to be there, so I'm scrambling to get Lurch put back together.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Now that the pistons and rods are in, it is time to pay attention to the oil pump.

Lurch's oil pump worked okay (it produced a steady 10 psi), but with so many new parts in the rebuilt engine, I decided to install a new gear-type oil pump, made by C&P Automotive (aka Billy Possum). This pump is a newly-manufactured replica of the pump GM offered in the 1930's as a replacement for the vane-type pump that originally came in the four cylinder engines. I have one of these new pumps in Justin and he is very happy with it! yay

In the first photo below, you can see the hole where the pump goes and also see the hole going into the oil distributor. I'll need to put in a new copper feed line from the output hole from pump to the distributor.

The second photo shows the locating pin/bolt that will hold the oil pump in place. Photo three shows the tip of the locating pin showing through the block. The pic also shows the divit in the side of the oil pump housing where the locating pin mates with the oil pump housing.

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/18/18 11:14 AM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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The first photo below shows the pump in place. The two red circles illustrate where the new oil delivery tube will go between the pump and the oil distributor. As per the manufacturer's instructions, I'm putting in a larger (3/8 inch) copper tube than was in there orignally. This is so as not to restrict the volume of oil going to the oil distributor.

The green circle shows the inlet hole to the pump.

Good thing I have smallish hands! The input fitting for oil distributor is down in a tight area. In order to tighten the compression nut on the fitting, I had to cut off an open-end wrench and also grind the sides to make it narrower. Another specialty tool that will not be used again (if ever) for years.

If anyone wants to use this or any other tool of mine, the rental cost is one Diet Coke. thanku

The third photo shows the oil screen housing and input nozzle in place. In the installation instructions, they said to make sure the connection of the nozzle to the housing is air tight, so I put a little dab of Permetex #3 on the threads of the nozzle.

The last photo shows the finished oil pump in place.

Cheers, Dean
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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/18/18 11:14 AM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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To finish up messing with the bottom end, my next area of focus is the oil pan.

After cleaning out the oil pan, the attachment lips need to be straightened. The 1/4-20 bolts that hold this pan to the block always seem to distort the lip because the steel that the pan is made from is REALLY soft. I guess you could use some body repair tools to hammer the lips flat, but I used a piece of scrap steel clamped in my bench vise and a flat-faced hammer. See the first pic below.

In preparation for putting the pan on and aligning the gaskets, I have some 1/4-20 bolts with their heads cut off as guides. They are showed in the second photo.

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/18/18 11:16 AM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Before I put the pan on for good, I used the pan to test how deep the connecting rod tangs dip into the oil troughs. If the tangs do not dip into the oil troughs enough, they will not spash the oil enough to lubricate everything that needs it.

Here are the steps for the tang dip test:
  • Smear some chassis grease in the troughs
  • With the crankshaft offsets parallel to the ground so that the tangs are not in the full down position, screw the pan onto the block, but spaced away enough to simulate the thickness of the pan gasket material. I used some flat washers as spacers.
  • By hand, turn the crank 1/2 turn which will dip the tangs into the grease once.
  • Carefully take the pan off and measure the depth of the groove in the grease created by the tangs.

As it turns out, the depth of the dip in the grease was 1/16 inch or more, so the dippers are dippin' the way they should (groovy)!! drink

If the dip was not deep enough, I could have raised the offending oil trough by bending it a little.

The three photos below show the grease in trough before the test, the flat washer spacers, and the tang dip grooves in the grease after the test.

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 11/20/20 10:19 PM. Reason: typo

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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So, it is time to button it up.

One of the challenges of this operation is to get the gaskets on the front and rear to adhere around the curved surfaces next to the front and rear main bearings. Following a tip from Ray Holland's 'School is in Session' document, I did not use the short 1/4 inch thick gaskets that came with the engine gasket kit.

Instead, I made my own. I used two 1/8 inch thick pieces of gasket material, smeared some Permetex #2 sealer between them, and tied them onto a drink bottle to dry. This way, the gaskets will be curved and will be easier to work with. See the first photo below for the patent-pending gasket forming tool.

Then the gaskets were glued to the block with Permetex #2. To seal the corner where the curved gaskets meet the flat gaskets, a tiny bead of sealant was put where they meet. In the photo, I have not yet glued down the curved gasket.

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/18/18 11:18 AM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Being an easy going guy, I always try to make sure nobody gets bent out of shape. Agrin

To that end, I don't want the holding bolts to bend Lurch's oil pan lip anymore, so I drilled some holes in 1/8" thick by 1/2" wide steel strips to act as big long flat washers.

Another consideration in installing the oil pan is that the front two and rear two 1/4" bolt holes are open to the inside of the block (the oil splash zone), so I put some Permatex #3 on their threads to help prevent leaks.

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/18/18 11:18 AM. Reason: typo

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That is a very nice touch to make the long reinforcing strips to hold the pan on.

All of your work has been top notch as you go along.


Agrin devil


RAY


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Thanks, Ray. I appreciate your kind words. thanku

I learned from your and others' previous posts and am trying to add a bit of common sense to the project.

What would they do back in the day on the farm, with only themselves to rely on? This is the thought that comes to mind when a problem or roadblock appears.

All my best, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Originally Posted by beachbum
I might install a thermostat retainer as well so "Do tell", who caries them? I looked in an older FS catalog 2015 and did not find it.



I just ordered one this week from Gary Wallace, he has them in stock. pipe


Jeff

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The saga continues with the tear down and rebuild of the water pump.

My main concern when taking apart the water pump and reassembling it was that cast iron parts can easily crack if not supported properly. You'll see how I supported various parts in the photos that follow.

The first operation was to push the water pump shaft out of the pulley. This was accomplished using a press that's in the basement of my good friend George Childs (see the first photo). The water pump housing is supported on both sides of the impeller and I used a short 5/8 bolt (sanded down from .625 to .610 inch in diameter) as a pushing rod.

Now to get the old bushings out of the housing. This is where the cast iron housing must be supported properly. I started with taking out the small front bushing. Since the bolt that I used earlier slides inside the bushing, I placed a short steel sleeve over it (1/2 inch electrical conduit) that will push the bushing out of the housing.

I used a gear puller that was anchored on the front bushing housing, thus not putting a strain on the main pump housing. This setup pushed the front bushing out nicely.

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/18/18 11:19 AM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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The next step was to remove the rear bushing. After removing the rusted-but-still-there baffle plate (see the first pic below), I took the housing to my buddy at the local high school and sandblasted the inside. I certainly don't want to clean up the outside!! laugh

In order to support the housing close to where the pressure was to be applied, I used a short piece of water pipe with a chunk cut out to go around the grease-hole arm in the casting (see the second pic below).

In addition to the water pipe support, I propped up the inlet to the housing so the whole thing would stand upright on a scrap steel plate. After heating the housing with a propane torch, I used the same sanded-down bolt, but this time inserted into a longer piece of conduit (and a thick washer), and knocked the bottom bushing out with a 3-pound sledge hammer.

The last photo shows the completely disassembled water pump, along with my patent-pending bushing removal tools. dance

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/18/18 11:20 AM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Dean,
when you installed your thermostat and bracket, were the holes where you put the brass screws threaded? or did you just use self threading screws?

I got my bracket from Old Chevy Parts but the screws he provided are not self threading.

Jeff


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Hi Jeff,

The holes in the housing are threaded 1/4-20. They can be cleaned out using a tap. Do it gently! You don't want to break off the tap and create a bigger problem to fix.

Cheers, Dean


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Ever onward!

Before putting new parts into the old water pump housing, I inspected the surface where the housing meets the block and decided it needed a little flat sanding (emery cloth on a steel plate). See the first photo below.

The first new part to be installed is the large bushing. In order to support the housing to avoid cracking it, I set it on the steel plate and propped up all the outlying parts (inlet pipe and unwebbed, open area) with some wood and chunks of steel.

The bushings are press fit into the housing. To help make the large bushing a little smaller, I put it in the freezer for a while (don't tell the boss). Right before gently (well, maybe not so gently) pounding the bushing into the housing, I heated the housing with a propane torch to help expand the hole.

Next, the small bushing goes in. Using my patent-pending bushing removal parts (sanded bolt, chunk of electrical conduit, and a thick flat washer) and a large C clamp, I pushed the bushing into the housing. Again, to help with the process, I put the bushing in the freezer and heated the housing. It slid in smoother than the last popsicle I sucked on!

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/18/18 11:21 AM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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The instructions that come with the rebuild kit says that the bushings might need to be reamed out after being installed. Yep! The large bushing worked as is, but the new water pump shaft would not go into the small bushing.

I guess the correct tool to open the bushing a little would be an adjustable reamer. Well, I don't have one. However, I noticed that the end of the old pump shaft, where the pulley had been, is the same original diameter. Sooooooo, a few cuts with a cutoff wheel later, I've got me a reamer that is the correct size. yay

Still having fun! Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/18/18 11:22 AM.

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Before reaming, I drilled a hole in the small bushing so that it oil could flow from the tiny reservoir to the water pump shaft. See the circle in the first photo below.

Then, the new reaming tool took a small amount of material off the inside of the bushing by turning it by hand and keeping the end well lubricated with cutting oil. The reamer opened up the bushing enough so that the new shaft went through, but it was still a very tight fit. So I opened up the hole a little with fine reaming tool (short length of copper tubing with a slot in the end to hole some emery cloth).

The next step was to dig out the old packing material and put new packing material in the brass nut that came off the old water pump. I used two of the three lengths that came with the rebuild kit.

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/18/18 11:25 AM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Now comes the final assembly of the water pump. Yeah!! laugh

The first photo shows all the parts laid out before putting it together. They are, in order:

-Pump impeller and shaft
-Fiber washer
-New baffle plate
-Old housing with new bushings (the brass nut is loosely on its threads)
-Steel washer (to space pulley out from housing)
-Old pulley

I assembled everything by hand and stood the whole shabang (with the impeller on the steel plate) for the last operation: putting on the pulley. In order to keep the new baffle plate in place, I put a single, timy dab of Permatex #2 between it and the housing.

I heated the pulley with my trusty propane torch to expand it and gently pounded it onto the end of the water pump shaft.

Whew! That's a whole lotta work for one small subassembly!

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/18/18 11:25 AM.

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Ah, but the fun with the water pump is not over yet! The mounting surface on the block is very pitted and I suspect would leak if it is not repaired.

First thing to do is clean it up using a wire wheel and my drill.

Next, I smeared some of my favorite 'go-to fix 'em-up stuff' on the surface: JB Weld. After letting it dry for a day, I stuffed shop rags in the water jacket and flat sanded the water pump mounting surface. The JB Weld filled the voids and now I have a smooth surface that will seal properly. ;-)

Lo and behold, the rebuilt water pump (with its gorgeous patina) is mounted on Lurch's new block.

Ever onward, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/18/18 11:26 AM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Wow, December already! Time flies. Period!

I've been doing a bunch of work on Lurch's engine, but have not stopped to document it, so it is catch up time.

Since the block is basically done, I put it back in Lurch. From this point on, I'm working in the open space of my driveway, instead of the cramped covered patio in the back yard.

The next sub-project is the head. It cleaned up nicely at the machine shop. ;-) The valve stem guides were too loose, so new guide inserts were put in. The valves were in good shape, so they were ground and the valve seats were ground. See the first two photos below.

Even though the head was 'hot tanked' and the guy spent a lot of time digging crap out of the water passages, I dug around some more with a straightened coat hanger and coaxed some more rust particles out of the deep recesses.

Cheers, Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/18/18 11:27 AM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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In keeping with the 'cleaning' theme, I decided to clean out the spark plug holes. The threads go down into the head way farther than the spark plug reaches, so the bottom threads are caked in carbon and rust.

I don't want to run a tap down those threads and run the risk of screwing them up, so what to do? Make a tool!! One of my favorite distractions.

I took a broken, old spark plug with the correct threads and busted the plug up leaving only the thread portion. Luckily, the center hole in the thread portion was 1/2 inch in diameter so I welded an old 1/2 inch bolt to the plug threads. Then, with the help of my trusty 4 inch grinder, I cut flutes in the threads and viola, a 1928 Chevy spark plug thread chaser was born! See the first two photos below. Stardard disclaimer: patent pending. Royalties for use is one Diet Coke to me.

Now that the bench cleaning was done, I put in the valves, springs, spring caps, and keepers.

Before putting the head on the engine, I put a couple of old headless head bolts in the block as guide pins for the head gasket and the head. See the pic below. With a thin coat of spray Permatex Copper sealer on both sides of the new head gasket, I bolted the head onto the block. I followed the head bolt tightening instructions in the repair manual.

cool Dean

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Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/18/18 11:28 AM.

Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



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