I have two '51 Chevys, only one will go to Tahoe.

Since it is 2,500 miles from home in NC, trailering the '51 must be my way to go.

I own a really nice, low mileage 2007 Chevy TrailBlazer 4 x 4.

It has the factory tow package, with a 3:73 positraction.

With this gear ratio, towing capacity is 5,700 lbs.

The '51 weighs in at 3,200 lbs, so 2,500 lbs remain for the trailer, fuel, wife and the wifes' suitcases!

I prefer NOT to crowd the 5,700 lb limit, which eliminates an enclosed trailer.

Need ANY info anyone cares to share, regarding appropriate open trailer length, trailer material (steel, aluminum, etc) trailer weight, pricing and brand name.

Thanks in advance, want to get a head start on this and not be in a buying panic, at the last minute.

Bob.

Just for an FYI, my 16 foot, 2 axle, steel chassis with wood deck open car trailer weighs 1300 pounds.

Here's a picture of it:

Cheers, Dean

Thanks Dean. 1,300 is a good number, I'm thinking.

Bob,
You're in a little bit of a pickle. And you are absolutely correct that you don't want to be near the limit... but I would add, "any limits". Meaning that you don't want to max-out the trailer carrying capacity, nor do you want to be anywhere near your towing vehicle's capacity.

I have owned two open trailers before. Used one of them to tow my 1931 from Seattle to Woodbridge, VA. Thank god my brand new car cover (custom made) didn't show up in time, and I traveled the whole way without a cover on my car. That was a GOOD THING, since I was unaware of what a flopping cover does to your car - especially over 2,500 miles!!!!

Had another open trailer that I used to haul everything from 1931 to 1986 cars. Very well built and would haul a bunch!!!! Trailered from Seattle to Santa Rosa, CA in 1986.

But, once I bought my covered trailer in 2000 I never looked back. It is fantastic to be able to park at a motel overnight and not worry about who's snooping around your rig. And if you hit a rain storm, or a sand storm, you've got NO worries. Love it. Love it.

Now - facts and data.
My trailer WITH the 1931 loaded in it, crosses the scale at 5840 lbs.
So, you do need to have a towing rig that will haul close to 7,000 lbs in order to have some cushion.

When I towed my trailer 5 years ago with my Chevy Avalanche (which I loved), I was disappointed. It slowed down on hills, and couldn't stay at 65 mph. More importantly, it was CONSTANTLY!!!! changing gears. A small uphill slope and it would DOWNSHIFT. This increased the RPM by about 1,500. Very noisy.

Then I got my Duramax. I'll stop here, because that is the PERFECT tow vehicle....bar none. Better than sex.

So - my advice is, I like covered trailers in lieu of open trailers. No comparison. Also, the trailer needs to be more capable than what you want to pull. But equally important -- you need a towing rig that won't burn up it's transmission, nor overwork it constantly.

My son-in-law owned a Tahoe which didn't tow well (rear-end was geared wrong). Now he's upgraded to a Suburban. He is still disappointed with how it does on hills. Sound familiar? If you want a towing vehicle, then you need to buy a towing vehicle. Don't believe the TV advertisements that you see. A 19' boat does not equal a 1931 - and especially not a 1951 vehicle.

I'm not real positive about your TrailBlazer being a fully qualified towing vehicle - BUT - I think if you take it easy and slow down when IT wants to, then you'll be okay. Just don't push it.

Sorry, I just reread your post. I forgot that you asked about OPEN TRAILER information. Maybe someone else can add that. I will tell you that everyone that I know that has an aluminum open trailer, loves it. They definitely notice the reduced weight. Including the weight reduction in your wallet. Ha!!!

--Bill B

Thanks Bill, very good info.

I have owned 3 TrailBlazers, over the years ... still have two now.

2 out of the 3 had 3:73 gears, the 3:73 gears did a good job towing, but certainly not as good as a Duramax. The third TrailBlazer had a non posi 3:23 or a 3:43, that unit was not so good for towing.

Knowing that this entire rig, truck and trailer, will have its mechanical limitations, I would like to be a light as possible, thereby making the trip a pleasant venture, instead of having a "puckered backside" for 2,500 miles.

If you insist on towing with the Trailblazer, you must minimize the weight of the open trailer. Aluminum is your only reasonable option. I have never owned one as my open trailer is an 18 foot wood deck steel trailer. It is over 20 year old and has well over 100,000 miles hauling anything from firewood to fire trucks. I would recommend an 18 foot versus 16 foot as some vehicles are difficult to balance (proper tongue weight) within a limited distance. You also will likely have some of your Chevy hanging over the back of the trailer when properly positioned. Some states require flags with overhang.

Since the 1970s I have used 3/4 ton trucks with the exception of a 1/2 ton Suburban for a short while. I have gotten into road conditions and traffic that took all the additional capabilities and safety of the larger brakes, suspension to keep us from a disaster.

If you don't plan to use the trailer often after Tahoe, I suggest you consider having your car transported and driving the Trailblazer (or other vehicle) to the meet. We lost one VCCA member on the road back from Grand Junction when his rig (enclosed trailer, 3/4 ton Duramax) rolled over on the interstate.

I towed my 62 Biscayne on an open Featherlite trailer to Grand Junction from NY with a Yukon with a 3:73 rear, the Rockies were a challenge.... I would never think of pulling with anything amaller as a tow vehicle. I had a blowout on the open trailer the cause quit a bit of damage to my car (about $5000!) with the rubber debris so that was the end of the open trailer era in my house.

I have a 16-1/2 foot open trailer that I have used to tow my 51 and it is OK , but an 18 foot would be much better. It is not a problem with weight balancing and there is NOT any overhang, but it is a little difficult to down as the car will be all the way forward. I would be more concerned with the tow vehicle as a towing capacity of 7,000 lbs or more would be much better. I think keeping the load at 75 % or less of capacity will give you a safe unit for a long haul. My tow vehicle is a (rusty) Silverado extended cab 4x4 with 3.73 and it does a good job.

Chipper .... I'm not insisting on using the TrailBlazer, instead, it is the vehicle I currently own, which could do the job ..... but I know I would be uncomfortably close to established limits. It has its mechanical limitations (5,700 lbs capacity), but, in actuality, the 5,700 lbs is too close for comfort, based on my load.

Figuring 3,200 for the '51, then an approximate 1,500 for the open trailer brings me to 4,700 lbs before passenger, luggage, fuel.

If 500 lbs is added for passenger, fuel and luggage, I'm at 5,200 lbs., only 500 lbs away from capacity. That's too close for my comfort.

I recall the news of the gent who lost his life towing, but don't recall the cause of the towing accident. No matter what the cause, it was a sad time.

For the dollars involved in paying to have the '51 delivered to Tahoe and then retuned to my home, round trip is 5,000 miles. That money could instead be utilized in assisting with the purchase of another tow vehicle.

I agree with your 75% limit.

My calculations currently put me at 91% of the limit.

Yes John, good info on the downside of an open trailer.

Although a blow out can and will occur with an enclosed trailer, it's my thought the shrapnel from the tire would more evident in an open trailer, without trailer body to buffer the flying pieces.

Bill Barker made mention of the "privacy" of an enclosed trailer, in keeping your prized possession more secure in a motel parking lot, also keeping the car more safe from the elements.

So, I need a larger truck to tow and an enclosed trailer for my car ..... all big expenses for me. UGH!

I planned for 4 years before Flint on what I was going to do about towing from Seattle to Flint.

In Feb 2011, I purchased a 1 ton Duramax. Used it in July to tow my 10 year old covered trailer. Spent the night twice in a huge rainstorm. Didn't care since the car was snug-as-a-bug.

I now have 5 payments left on my truck. And then, next year --- I get to use it to go to Lake Tahoe completely debt-free!!!! That will be a sweet taste.

So, the "long view" planning philosophy has been good for me.
I'm suggesting that you look beyond 2016.
-Bill

Bob... If Tahoe is a one time thing for you as far as trailering goes and you don't want to invest in a truck, the key will be to invest in time. Plan a safe route that you can run your current truck slowly to get there, and take a full week or more to drive out there so you don't overwork the truck or yourself. I bought a GMC with a 5.3L V8 mainly because I need to use it for every day driving. If I hauled regularly, or wanted to be in the hammer lane and do these trips in one day instead of two, I would have spent more on a Duromax. I pace myself, and keep an eye on the tach to make sure I'm not pushing the truck too hard. It helps that there's usually a pokey slow '53 in front of me as well!

Brewster's point about taking the slow, safe route is a good one. Here in California, the speed limit when pulling a trailer is 55 anyway, so I stay in the slow lane and 'chill'.

Less stress on me and it gives everyone on the road a great chance to check out my old truck on the trailer and give me a thumbs up!

Nice way to cruise.

Crusing in the slow lane at 60 MPH was how I survived commuting 520,000 miles to work over 30 years. Let everyone else get ulcers trying to save 6 seconds on the commute. Not me.

Cheers, Dean

I appreciate the recent comments from Bill, Bruce and Dean.

Good information, good food for thought.

I had my first NEW TrailBlazer in 2002. It did a lot of towing for me, when I moved myself from Cleveland Ohio to down south.

Always felt comfortable towing with it, but always towed with caution and common sense.

I'm a 55 MPH tow guy, always in the curb lane, watching the world FLY BY ME in the passing lane, only to find them at the next rest area, as I park. Tortoise and hare scenario, I guess.

Assuming I could use my TrailBlazer, I still have the ongoing concern with the "open" trailer.

In todays world, as we have seen, folks do mean, crazy things, just for the Hell of it. When I purchased my black '51, 15 years ago, in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, I was faced with a 750 mile drive from Cedar Rapids to Cleveland, Ohio .... with a rented U Haul open trailer.

We only spent one night on the road, but I'll tell you I didn't sleep much that night, knowing the '51 was sitting out in front of the motel for all to see or damage or vandalize. You get the idea.

IF I decided to get an enclosed trailer, the TrailBlazer is certainly out of the picture, based on trailer weight alone.

At my age, I now feel good, but don't know how much towing/travel would be ahead of me ....... thus my insistence to myself that I make this Lake Tahoe run.

Many decisions to make ..... hope I find a decision that suits me well.

Just another couple of thoughts.

From this discussion, it sounds like the IMPORTANT item is protecting the car, so the covered trailer is a good investment. It also gives you another covered parking space at home. ;-)

Now, realistically, how many times per year would you want to trailer your car? Or, put another way, how many miles would the trailer see per year?

After you calculate the above, compare the TOTAL long-term cost of owning a viable tow vehicle versus renting one occasionally.

At the moment, I don't own a tow truck, I rent one. I find that I only need to trailer my antique trucks approx. five times per year and each rental only costs around $200. Much less than owning and maintaining a 3/4 ton truck.

Renting to go to Tahoe will cost more, that that trip is a 'bucket-list' trip, so it's worth it for me.

Cheers, Dean

A good friend told me this when I started out towing a trailer, so maybe keep this in mind while selecting what you are going to tow and with what;
if your tow vehicle were an airplane and you were the pilot and you told the passengers, "we are about 40-50% over our rated weight limit, but don't worry I did this before and besides I fly real slow" would any passenger continue on the flight?

There is a reason why these things have limits and ratings, just because you can pull it does not mean you can control it or stop it. Just because you are driving slow will not prevent the trucks that are blowing past you doing the speed limit will not pull the air out from under your trailer causing you to sway all over

The rented tow vehicle is an approach I did not consider.

The rented "tow vehicle" would need a brake controller and trailer wiring harness, unless the trailer being used has surge brakes.

I know, from experience, that U Haul open trailers have surge brakes, but have not seen any enclosed trailers with surge brakes.

Certainly worth consideration, though.

John,
Personally, I would not meet or exceed the factory tow ratings of 5,700 lbs.

Fact is, I would feel "comfortable" if I did not exceed 80% of the published factory tow ratings or 4,560 lbs.

Using the TrailBlazer and an OPEN ALUMINUM TRAILER, with passengers, suitcases, fuel, misc. included, I would be at 91% of the factory tow ratings or 5,187 lbs. Close to the tow limits of 5,700.

Using the same vehicle with an ENCLOSED TRAILER and necessary additions to the load, I would be at 126% of the factory tow rating or 7,182 lbs. Way too much to tow with my TrailBlazer.

Wheels, although they are rusty wheels, are still turning in my head.

No dollars have left my wallet yet, still weighing options.

Whether you own an enclosed or open trailer, are there folks out there who are using weight distributing hitches, while towing their classics ?

Couple of thoughts:

1. The rented trucks that I've used have electric trailer brake setups. My open trailer has such brakes.

2. I use a load balancing type hitch, which distributes the load across the axles of both the trailer and the towing vehicle. I own this hitch setup from when I owned a 3/4 ton Dodge tow truck. The leveling bars are good, but keep in mind that they hang quite low, so sometimes they scrape when the pavement has a dip in it.

I also use an anti-sway device. This is like a brake that dampens the sway tendencies. Below is a picture of a setup that is identical to mine. It gives me peace of mind.

Cheers, Dean

Any rented U HAUL truck that I have used for moving, hauling, etc did not have brake controllers.

Which rental truck company did you use, which had the brake controller on the truck?

The unit you pictured is what I call the "weight distribution hitch" ...... redistributing weight from the rear of the tow vehicle to the front of the tow vehicle.

Thanks

I rent my truck from a local place, Lewis Rentals, in San Lorenzo, CA. I haven't tried U-Haul because I like Lewis and I like giving the local independent my business.

Yes, the rig in the picture is a weight-distribution setup, but it also shows the anti-sway bar, which is a separate feature.

The sway control bar attaches to the trailer and the hitch via two small balls. The body of the sway bar is a big brake that provides drag when the ends of the bar are pulled apart or compressed towards each other, thus dampening the sway motion.

Cheers, Dean

Dean,

My reason for asking about a weight distribution hitch on an open car carrier is this.

Depending how far forward the car is positioned on the open trailer, the tongue weight could vary, which would affect the chain settings for the W.D.H.

If the car is positioned onto the trailer in the exact fore and aft position each time, all is well. If the position varies, the W.D.H. settings could vary.

When I owned my 26' travel trailer, settings on the W.D.H. would remain the same.

Any "loose items", such as luggage, would always be placed over the dual axles, within the trailer.

Tongue weight would be close, each time, with the travel trailer.

Bob you have been getting a lot of advice on this. Everybody has different experiences towing and different ways of doing it. Having several trailers over the years along with several tow vehicles my opinion is the Trail Blazer is just too light to do what you are expecting from it. If you were on flat land all the way with an open trailer it might work but that won't be the case. Stopping and sway is another thing to consider, it's nice for the tow vehicle to be in control. Just my two cents, better to be safe than sorry.
Phil

I agree with this. I've owned a 2002 envoy with the straight six and it was a great vehicle. If it was a one time tow and I was willing to go slow, I suppose I might try it. You always have to keep your safe stopping distance but you could also add a brake controller to the TB if the trailer has electric brakes. I also own a Duramax Dually crew cab and have owned them since the DMax came out in 01'. I always bought duallys for the bigger brakes. The Dmax's can really pull but stopping is more important to me. I am also a class A licensed driver and have drove rigs for 35+ years. Your TB will make the trip, if you drive cautious and pamper it. If you're content doing that then go for it. Because of the short wheel base of the TB you will absolutely need the anti-sway bar. The WD hitch might not be necessary depending on how it balances the tongue weight. I also have a restored 83' Blazer which would be a more capable tow vehicle than your TB. I personally wouldn't want to tow that far with it but it is more old school than the TB. I have often seen trucks at their GVWW's and they do just fine especially if you're taking it easy. So I think you're worrying too much about staying at 70%. You won't be pushing it either going or slowing so don't worry.
Went to Sturgis SD from MA with my Dmax rig and my brother in his 1/2tn Chevy short bed pickup rig. He was towing a 18' camper/toy hauler with two full dressed HD's in the back. His truck bed was filled with tools, firewood, and belongings of two other riders we were meeting in Sturgis. He used both the WD and the sway control and needed both. I have to tell you his little 305 1/2 ton truck did a bang up job going both way with all that load.

Here's another option. Buy a vintage medium duty industrial truck, put a U-HAUL box on it, paint it to look like a moving company from olden days, put your baby in it, and drive to wherever.

Check out this truck: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/353409#Post353409

Cheers, Dean

Hi Bob,
It looks like renting a larger truck from Uhaul might be your best option, after reading all the suggestions and knowing your situation.
Back in 2000 when my son and I towed "Dorothy" (my 51 from KS) home, we rented a Uhaul box truck and their car trailer. The 51 fit fine, and the trailer had mechanical brakes which worked when the truck slowed and there was force on the hitch. We kept it at a safe 55 and had an uneventful trip back to Upstate NY. Unfortunately, only a box truck was available and that Ford V8 drank a lot of gas.

Good luck on your decision.

Phil, Chistech, Dean and Rick,

I thought this thread died a natural death, but was happy to see additional comments.

This thread coincides to the other current thread, discussing the physical size of an enclosed trailer.

I have towed the '51 with a HEAVY U HAUL open car transporter and my TrailBlazer, with no negative side effects, in the north Georgia and NC mountains, but certainly not for 2,500 miles. We did, however, exceed 6,000 feet. I think the '51 got dizzy up there, since she lived her previous life in the streets of Cedar Rapids, Iowa.

A 3/4 or 1 ton DuraMax is the way to go, with a 24' trailer, but I cannot make that investment for one long trip. Do I investigate the LEGITIMATE possibilities of my current tow vehicle ..... OR do I just stay home?

For me, I must look at Chevrolet factory ratings, which I believe to be credible. I must look back at previous adventures, which involved towing experiences, with TrailBlazers. Over the years, I purchased 3 TrailBlazers, still own 2 of them. Those still in my stable are low miles, for the model year.

I'm not the guy who will ever attempt to put 10 lbs. of poop in a 5 lb. bag. I will never overload, putting our lives and safety at risk, nor will I intentionally damage my "mechanicals", for the sake of proving a point.

I WILL, however, examine ratings, I will look at current trailer and towed vehicle weights vs TrailBlazer factory ratings, and I will invest in proper hitching (WDH and sway), not only because they are needed, but because it will make us safer and more calm and comfortable, over our journey.

For certain, an installed tranny temp. gauge will keep an eye on the pulse, so to speak.

I have been a VCCA member for 10 years. We have lived in the northern tip of Georgia, and now reside in the southwestern tip of NC. NO VCCA EVENTS OR MEETINGS within a reasonable distance, at this corner of the world.

At my age, along with my desires, I would like to make one VCCA national event, while I am still physically and mentally able to do so. That idea then puts the focus on Tahoe.

IF I can make this trip happen, within the SAFE AND COMFORTABLE towing parameters of my vehicle, I will consider this "once in a lifetime trip".

If I'm uncomfortable with my final figures, the '51 will have to stay home.

If we go, and you see our hood open on the side of the road, please stop to share a sandwich with us.

Sorry for being " long winded ".

My thoughts exactly. The Tahoe event is probably the only VCCA National that I'll ever go to.

Cheers, Dean

Hopefully you will go, as well. I did make my hotel reservations, back on that crazy day of "reservation making", so we have a place to sleep, if nothing else.

Bob,
Did you get your answer about what kind of trailer to use?

B.B.,

The trailer I MUST work with, based on my limited options, would be an open trailer, dual axles, 18' or 20' in length, with an aluminum frame construction.

I love aluminum.

I found this trailer for right now was wondering if this would work.

https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/rvd/5261761091.html

I have a 2009 Chevy 1500 Silverado with the 4.8L engine in it and towed my wife's ford mustang that weighed 3,420 lbs. and the trailer from uhal weighed 2,210 lbs. So my truck can haul a combined curb weight of 5,630 lbs. This trip was from La Puente California to Pittsburg Kansas when we moved out there for my schooling and then we moved back to California.

I also packed the car with stuff to so I may have been more weight than I thought.

My trucks tow capacity is 4,400 to 7,500 lbs advertised.

I do have hellwig helper springs on and on the back of my truck though. I got them from 4wheelparts.com for $280

A fellow VCCA member uses a similar 4.8 L 1/2 ton to tow a open trailer with '28 or '53 2-door. One trip 3500 miles from Houston to Ely NV. Has load leveling and anti-sway hitch. Seems to work well. Amazingly gets ~ 15 mpg even in the mountains and keeps up with my Duramax with enclosed trailer on all but the steepest grades.

Yeah my truck avraged 15 to 16 mpg I was suprised.

Late to this party.....

As for other possible Truck rental - I just rented from Enterprise Truck rentals. It was completely set up for towing, Diesel engine with enough power to cruise over hwy 50 into Lake Tahoe, It was a crew cab with 4 full size doors so plenty of room for luggage and it had very low mileage. They only charged me $65/day plus mileage. They gave me 600 free miles so I did not pay any mileage for this rental

Great info, Mike.

Thanks! Dean

Mike,
Considering what a new one costs and the number of days you actually use one, it is a bargain. I have a 2008 that I primarily use to tow and haul parts. I am sure if I figured out the cost per day it would be in the same cost range. Mine can sit for a month or more without driving. Of course the mileage charge might get a bit pricey as I have only 175,000 miles on mine so far.