I an trying to remove the steering idler and third arm asy on my 52 to replace the bushing. I am having trouble with the bolt under the oil pan. Any suggestions, tricks or helpful advice. Thanks, Michael

The one top bolt is the problem. Its easy to remove with an open end wrech. Getting the bolt started when installing the arm can be a real pain. I usually start the two lower bolts first and then move the arm around until the top bolt fits into the (threaded) hole. Clean the area well including the top bolt hole.
Using an open end wrench works OK but is slow. I found the a ratcheting Gear Wrench is the fastest way to go. (I sell tols including the Gear Wrench brand)....They also can be purchased at some Ace hardware stores and parts stores.

I've got the top bolt loose, but it's hitting the oil pan and the arm still won't come loose. Should I take the front motor mounts loose and raise up the engine?

Yes, and order a new set of the motor mounts as the rubber is compressed (from old age). They are simple, easy to install and cheap for a 1952.

As always it's nice to chat with someone that's been there and done that! Thanks Chevgene.

With the engine lifted up slightly to replace the mounts the bolt should be easy to remove and replace. Just don't get your fingers in a position were they might be crushed should your jacking device fail. Question: on my straight axel corvette there is a shim procedure for spacing the third member clearance on the third bolt ( to take up any space due to manufacturing tolerancing) In my 50 manual I have not found a referance to the same problem. Is this a concern only relevent to Vettes? The front suspension is the same as the 49-54 Chevy's sans the taperd Vette shim.

Just went through some of the things that came with my '49 and a new idler set was included. Will change now while the motor is out. Also found new motor mounts. Thanks guys.

Ron,

In the '49-'54 passenger car manual, they do indeed list the procedure of installing the idler and third arm assembly, which includes taking a measurement with a set of feeler gauges and, if the gap measures greater .008”, adding a shim. The installation procedure is listed in the online version of the manual at the TOCMP website at http://chevy.tocmp.com/shop/1949_53/03front/3_06.HTM , and continues onto the following page. I recall I ended up adding a .010" shim, which I made from a piece of brass shim stock, when rebuilding the front end in my '52 Fleetline.

Thanks Scott for the info. I do have the 49-50 manual. I think it may be time to revisit its pages.

Scott,
I have the 1949-53 Chevrolet Passenger Car Shop Manual but couldn't find it any place but the link you posted sure helped. Thanks

Its on page 3-6 in my 1949-53 manual

Got it. Thank you.

I FINALLY GOT THE TOP BOLT OUT! NOW I'M READY TO REPLACE THE BUSHING. THE MANUAL SAYS TO REAM BUSHING TO .999-.923" USING J-3189 BUSHING REAMER. THE SERVICE DEPT WHERE I WORK HAS LONG SINCE DONE AWAY WITH THAT TOOL. SO I WAS WONDERING HOW TO REAM THE BUSHING, DO I FIND A REAMER THAT SIZE OR USE AN ALTERNATE TOOL? ALSO WHERE WOULD I FIND A REAMER THAT SIZE. THANKS, MICHAEL

i assume there is two differant bushings and shaft sizes you may have to go to your local machine shop they should have a set of adjustable reamers . some machine shops cater to small jobs others do not and have a $ 400 minum so ou may want to ask before you leap .

SORRY, I GOT CARRIED AWAY THE MEASUREMENTS ARE.922-.923" SORRY FOR THE CONFUSION!!!!!