I wasn't really looking for a new car last weekend when I started cruising Craigslist but a "restored and parked" 1929 Chevy Coupe caught my eye. Calls were made and off I went. A local car guy had passed and his kids were in from California clearing out his estate. Well the coupe was parked in a leaky garage back in 1981 and would have needed all new wood, tons of rust remediation and who know what else. There was however the last car he was working on still on the lift, the 1930 roadster. It was a bit out of what I wanted to spend but I ended up trading an extra motorcycle I wasn't too keen on and the car came home.

Once home I checked the oil, threw a new battery in, rigged up some fuel, and the Chevy fired right up. Looking in the fuel tank and radiator they were pretty crusty so I ran them off to the local radiator shop to get them boiled out. I'm looking forward to cruising this old car.

Welcome to VCCA Chat. Looks like a solid car. Are you planning to restore it?

I'm gonna try to keep it fairly stock and just enjoy it for now. I have a couple of other projects to finish up before I can really focus on the roadster.

Good for you. Most of the guys in the club prefer stock over highly modified. We do however have the Personalized forum for folks who prefer that. Good luck with your project.

Hey thanks! I get you on the stock, I just don't know if I have the patience to put it back to 100% stock. I have a 1940 Harley Knucklehead I've been doing the "track down the original bolts" style restoration for 12 years now and I'm still only halfway there. I grabbed this little car for something fun to do with the family. Most things will be stock but I'm not going to sweat it if I have to fudge something here and there.

Welcome to the VCCA!

I think you are on a reasonable track.
Original stock is a great end point.
But in the mean time, if you have to fudge a few things as you said, that's great too, if it gets you going and having fun driving your car.
You can always keep your eyes open for the original stuff at reasonable prices along the way and upgrade if you like when you find it.

That's what I've been doing with my truck.
Some things obviously got changed here and there through the years, and some things just needed to be repaired/readjusted/replaced.
As I find original stuff, and get around to stuff, the truck gets closer to factory original... one little thing at a time.

Have fun!

Before you cover it with material can I ask you to take some pictures, and a diagram of the top frame with some careful measurements? I have a basket case '29 roadster that is missing the entire top. Maybe I could trade you some '29/'30 headlamps, unless you prefer those chrome '31s. The '31s are a little more interesting.

Billie Possum has the crank hole cover and chrome cap available for '29 & '30 cars. They are not cheap.

Art

Sure, I can get some measurements. My top frame seems functional but has had some dubious repairs done in it's life.

Is yours a rumble seat car? If so I'm looking for some measurements on the back spring frame.

Called the radiator shop, they have it ready to go. There was an old repair that needed some reworking. The gas tank is still getting boiled so I have a few more days. I went ahead and ordered a sealed bearing pump from the filing station as my stock style was extremely corroded. I'm thinking about filling the block with some evaporust and flushing it before I reassemble.

Do everything to can to clean as much crud as you can from cooling passages in the block and head.

No radiator will prevent overheating if the coolant cannot properly circulate through the engine.

You also have a pretty good chance of plugging up your just cleaned radiator is there is a lot of rust and deposits that can break lose from the block and head.

This is not a rumble seat car, only 1200 of those made in 1929. It was a trunk model with the spare tire in the drivers side front fender. My coupe is also a trunk model but has the spare at the rear.

Art

Yeah, I'm going to chemically clean the water passages and will run a coolant filter to try and mitigate any further blockages.



How fast do you need those drawings? I can model the top frame in case and shoot out individual part specs if you have a bit of time.

Matt

Absolutely no hurry. We first have to build a new house and shop in another state. Then move into them before starting on a new project.

Art

Primo, I would be removing the freeze plugs (welch plugs) so you can scratch the deep corners of the coolant passages while flowing water through. Most crud will have compacted in the lower parts of the cavity and chemical and even high flow flushing wont shift it. I have had several bare blocks tank dipped and rinsed with high pressure then scratched a bucket full of crud out after.
Tony

You know the size of the freeze plugs off the top of your head? I'll measure them if not. My parts order came in today, if I can get the freeze plugs locally I'll go ahead and knock them out this weekend.

Thanks,
Matt

I dont remember the freeze plug size in my 38 but they were a common size that my local parts shop had on the shelf. I have no idea what size were used in 1930 but would guess somewhere near 2".
Tony

Gotcha, I tried searching the net but came up empty handed. Was going to try to get everything on hand before I started the project because I live out in the country. I'll just pull em and clean things out before I run to town for parts.

Thanks!
Matt

The plugs are 1" from my memory. They are not the cup type but what I call the button type.