My 39 Chevy TuDor start to hesitate and I found that the accelerator pump started to deteriorate and plugged the accelerator jet. So I decided to pull it apart and rebuild it. This is working out well, the carb is came apart fine, cleaned up good and I got a rebuild kit from the Carb Shop. Anyway I decided to pick up a spare carb and get that ready for use. This carb was gummed badly and was difficult to get apart. After getting apart I found the the main slip nozzle was cracked and the main screw nozzle was broken. Someone broke the screw part from the tube part and then at some later time forced the screw part so much that the tube became jammed in in the slip nozzle. The rest of the carb seems to be OK, but I'm sure the carburetor will not work properly with these faulty parts. Do you think I can find some replacements for these parts or should I just look for another carburetor with those parts in it? Mike

I just noticed that there is a tech section. Being new to this I wasn't completely aware. Should this question be in the other section? Mike

I think I have a used 1939 carb. here that looks good except for some rust on the lower part of the casting. Would sell it for $30 + shipping.
The nozzel, etc. you need fits only 1938-1940.
chevgene@msn.com

Sorry, it is a 1941-1948. Will check some more out tomorrow.

Thanks for looking. I have 3 of those already.
Mike

All of the parts that you need for your carburetor are available from the Carburetor Shop in new old stock. However, you must purchase a carburetor kit to be able to purchase the parts.

Really! I purchased a kit last Tuesday. I'll call them next week and maybe I can get what I need. Thanks Mike

Well I got one of the W-1 back together and on the car. It started right up and idled well. I know that I made an improvement in that the idle mixture screw now makes a difference. But.... the engine stumbles on acceleration. I figured that the throttle connecting rod to the metering rod is out of adjustment. BUT...(again) I don't have the special tool to set it. But I do have two throttle connecting rods that I can play with. I measured the distant between the end pins and tried them on the carb. The first had a distance of 4 3/8" and the car stumbled a lot. The second rod had a distance of 4 5/8" and the engine responded much better, still some stumble. I had thought that maybe the first rod was flooding the engine, but seeing that a longer rod improved performance, there must have been not enough. A longer rod will pull the metering rod out of the main jet sooner. I'm I thinking this right? My next step is to add some more length the throttle rod. Let you know what happens. Mike

I could send you a tool
Gene

Chevgene, That would be very nice of you, but I seem to be dialing in on it. Thought that I'd check and fine tune the dwell and initial timing a little. They were both off a little. I lengthened the rod to 4 3/4", seemed to respond pretty good, not perfect but much better than when I started. I also had to remove the carburetor to tighten a couple of the plugs that were weeping a little gas. My book says the Carter Tool is a T109-25, is that what you have? Mike

Well..... I left the throttle rod 4 3/4" and changed the accelerator pump to the middle stroke. The car seems to run pretty good. Chevgene loaned me his Carter throttle rod tool. This morning I tried it and I was pretty close. After adjusting the rod, the final length was 4 11/16". The engine is responsive and idles nice. Thanks Chevgene.

If anyone is interested, the metering rod tool that I borrowed from Gene is quite simple, yet works perfectly. In fact I copied it so I can use it again on my spare carburetor. All it is, is a 2 7/8" length of 1/8" steel rod with a blunt point on one end. The point tapers back an 1/8" on the rod. To use the tool, you just pull the metering rod, insert the tool into the main jet and then lay the metering rod actuating pin onto the top of the tool. The relay rod from the throttle to the metering rod arm should just slip into the holes, if it doesn't bend the throttle rod so that it does. Cheap and easy, and it works! Mike

And it works on all W-1 Carters.