Has anyone used an Okie Bushing National Machine works in Oklahoma City and how much trouble was it install? Let me know need to replace bushing.Thanks

On a 1939 you just remove the old front bushing. Not too difficult and instructions and pictures are in the shop manual. Then the new bushing is driven in until it contacts the old rear bushing.
The worst part is probably splitting the U joint.

I will comment that on my 38 Master, it took a lot of force to install the bushing. I had to use a sledge hammer to get it it. I also used an old yoke to hammer on. I was really worried about the force required but it seemed to work fine in the end.

Hi Robert,

On a scale of 1 to 10 replacing the Oakie bushing is near the 10 range. Since you are new to our forum I would suggest you do a SEARCH of our old posts to read up on the topic, and related ones like "motor mounts."

My experience is with the 41 Oakie Bushing, but most years are very similar. SEARCH the term "Oakie" and use the DISPLAY NAME "Mike Buller." The pictures included in the posts have been erased by their host Photobucket, if you are a visual learner let me know and I will repost them.

You have not told us why you want to replace the bushing? Please let us know so we can help you diagnose your problem.

Good luck, Mike

I had no problem drilling out the dowel and pulling out the front bushing on my '39. Was i Just lucky?

If the vibrations through the floor and general body build up over 45 MPH it is probably the worn drive shaft bushings. I would suggest replacing the U joint at that time also. Watch for a new U joint on Ebay.

I bought this car on ebay,supposed to be a good running good driving car New Brake with in last yr,Looked good BUT Brake cyls Brake shoes very thin stuck Parking brake cables cut,King Pins worn out,All of that is fixed drove about 100 miles or so,got a noise and vibration in drive line,No oil in Transmission Maybe a drop or two when I pulled plug I figure bushing are worn out from oil starvation and as I am having to pull transmission will replace bushing and seal,rear end was not over full.He Lied.

Have it and will do,Thanks for reminding me.

Gene, Did you use a puller on the front bushing or did you just drive it out?

Thanks

Dave

Anybody, On a 39 did you need the puller the filling station has or did the bushing tap out easily through the slot?


Thanks

Dave

I just drove mine out.

Thanks!

HI Gene,

I guess I am confused on how you would drive out your old front bushing? Please explain the steps.

Dave, have you taken the time to read through our old posts? I can not imagine not using the puller.

I think Gene maybe confusing removal of the front drive shaft bearing from a 1930-33 drive shaft (see the article from the Filling Station). Torque Tube Bushing Replacement

The article is a good starting point but must be carefully read to distinguish the different styles of torque tube used through the years. The most logical way to remove the front bushing is explained in posts I referred to in my first post where I suggest a SEARCH of old posts for info. Try as you may, the puller rented from The Filling Station or Chevs of the 40"s is necessary to remove the front bushing, and it will take some patience to finesses your way through the process.

I want to also reinforce another important article from The Filling Station covering the correct placement of gaskets on the Universal Bell Housing. None of the work on the drive shaft can be done without dealing with this housing or the universal joint. Universaal Bell Housing

As always your 39 manual should be consulted for background info and assistance.

Good luck, Mike

P.S. The last pictures show the puller, the bushing that you are trying to remove with the puller, and what I used to drive the Oakie bushing back in ( part from an old U-Joint).

P.S. #2 If the 4 motor mounts and the transmission mount is in poor condition you are still going to have vibration problems.

Mike,

Thanks for the info. Some time ago I did read all the old posts here and on other forums and I have been a little hesitant to start given some of the horror stories. Going by memory, some of the prior posts mentioned driving the front bushing out using a slot that is in the tube after removing the dowel. I think you are probably right in that a puller would improve your chances of success.

Dave

When I did this job on my 38 Master, I didn't use a puller to extract the front bushing. As I understand it, during the years where a pin was used to secure the bushing, the bushings were not a really tight fit. I believe you will find in the 37 and 38 manuals instructions on removing the front bushing using a punch in the slot. Some years later I believe the bushings were not pinned and they were a much tighter fit. In those cases you would need a puller working from the front.

Exactly correct.

The Filling Station puller just pulled out the bronze liner out of my my 39 bush. I had to make a similar puller with larger claws to get the steel part out. Then the (Made in India) replacement sleeve would not go in properly as the OD was to large. 5lb hammer and an old yoke finally got it in. The result? 1/2 pint of oil down the torque tube every 20 miles.
I bit the bullet and pulled the diff. The repair bushing had stretched the mouth of the torque tube so I could not use a genuine bush any more so I decided to repair the Indian version. The oil leak was caused by the ID of the bush also being oversized and the oilseal not being held firmly. The Indians had fixed it in with RTV. Lasted ten miles or ten minutes, not sure which, then went down the driveshaft. I Made a .003 shim and pressed a new seal in. Lessons learned. No more shortcuts. The genuine front and rear bushes still turn up on ebay. If you see one pick it up And pulling the diff was more time consuming than difficult even though I did it with the car on axle stands. I made a wooden cradle for my trolley jack and out it came. Balance point for the complete 3rd member is about 6in down the torque tube from the diff housing if anyone wants to try it.
However if a genuine American Oakie Bushing turned up I would use it.After all these years though I would replace the oil seal

I have a Okie bushing made by original co. in Oklahoma City National Machine works on south Robinson NORS,Should work O K

ColinGrant,

Do you have a part number for the oakie seal? I have an old National Oakie but the seal is questionable.

Thanks

Dave

Dave,the seal # is National # 50449 I,Not sure this bushing is a M-101 couldn't find part number stamped on bushing housing,Was marked with a magic marker 40-50 will mic.as soon as I can get dimensions .

The O.D of the front bushing, which should be the O.D. of the Oakie for 1937-1939 is 1 11/32"

The O.D. of the 1940-early 1950 bushing is 1 5/16"

Thanks ,I will check the Okie tomorrow. The guy I got it from said it was Part #M-101

Great info, thanks

Gene,The bushing I have checks closer to 1 11/16 than 1 11/32 inside checks closer to 1 5/16 I don't know what i have.

MY ERROR............ I said O.D. and should be I.D.

Gene do you have the out side measurement For front and rear This thing just may be O K,Thanks

The front and rear should be the same O.D. for either bushing. The Only number I can come up with is the O.D. of the torque tube is 2" UP FRONT WHERE THE BUSHING GO ON. A 1937-1939. So the bushing O.D. would be 2" minus the thickness of the torque tube wall. From what I can see of other associated parts the 1041-1950 torque tube is that same diameter at that location so that demension can not be used for I,D.

Gene, I found a Okie bushing that is stamped M-101 I think from what I have read that is correct one for 39,Universal joint fit awfully tight would work I think might just be crud in old bushing.I'm going to be knee deep in bushings but I feel safer on this one,Thanks

Robert,

The National I have has m101 stamped on the seal. The box end flaps are gone but written on the box is 37-39 Chevy. If I am reading my micrometer correctly the rear od is 1.710 and the raised portion by the u joint is 1.730. Overall length is 5 3/4". Does this sound correct , or close to yours?

Anyone know if the Filling Station has corrected the fit of their oakie?

Thanks

Dave

Dave, 37_39 isn't available,There Part #V-101,I think the bushing I have is M-102 Smaller inside My u joint won't fit in front bushing,40-50 was smaller 1/32 I think from Genes description. O D Mikes same as your measurements

Took the torque tube down transmission may have worked O K even with my driving 100 miles + or - with no oil in transmission,My vibration was caused by universal joint not having bolt holding it to the main shaft,Some more work done by P O.being the genius he was it shouldn't have been a surprise.

Put a posting in parts wanted for your Oakie bushing. Many of us have accumulated multiples of parts and don't even know what we have so include the dimensions you've finalized.

The Filling Station has the dimensions of their v-101 which seem very close to the ones I posted for the old National oakie; Dimensions: ID AT SEAL END 1.00" * ID AT LARGE END 1.345"; OD AT SEAL END 1.710"; OD AT LARGE END 1.723"

Still trying to round up a seal, my local O'Reillys has spent about an hour so far and order samples in twice, for some reason the seal number mentioned above does not come up.

Dave

Dave
I have a M-101 coming should be here Wed. or Thu.,Made by National Machine works in Oklahoma City Ok. It is stamped M-101 the true Okie Bushing,May be different from the one that I had it wasn't marked,I think it may have been a M-102 for 40-50 models,Universal on 40 up is smaller my u joint was a no go being a 39 and larger,not sure about driveshaft dim.,May be same for all yrs. I'll let you Know as soon as bushing gets here.
I think I will soak the bushing in oil before using to soften seal up as it is leather I think.

I received Okie bushing was Stamped M-101 on body of bushing and seal was stamped National Mach Wks M-101,They must of had seals made with there name on it .
Universal joint fits good ! 11/32 measures I D O D is same as the other one ,It was a M-101 40-50 I D was 1 5/16.
Will hold up on install The guy with the 37 3.73 is parting car out now,He just wants to tell me what I need,Power Glide I'm sure with enough extra work it is doable But easiest is a direct bolt in,Cheapest to. Don't want use up my bushings.

Dave
Seal ME800 jim Carter trucks replaces original Okie seal they have them in stock now,Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info

Dave ,Just seen Okie Bushing replacement seal on CHevy's of the Forty's 1/2 Price of Jim Carter Truck's.

Robert,

Thanks for the heads up

Dave