I have a 38 front, center bumper guard that attaches rigidly to the bumper and to a bracket that runs back to the chassis cross-member...all which I'm pretty sure is original. It does not pull down. All the pull down type bumper guards appear to be for the rear, to clear the trunk when it opens. With that said, how was one supposed to get the crank handle in without disassembling the front bumper guard. Why wasn't it a pull down like the back? thx. Billu38

I HAVE SEEN ONE WHERE THE OLD OWNER GOT CREATIVE AND DRILLED A CRANK HOLE IN THE FRONT GUARD. BUT THAT HAD BEEN THE ONLY ONE I HAVE SEEN. MAYBE MOST OWNERS KEPT THEN BATTERY CHARGED?

The reproductions don't have the hole. The orginals do. The hole is not round, it's keyhole shaped.

We were just discussing the rear bumper guards for "46 -"48 and in most cases ( I believe ) it wasn't even necessary to lower the guard to clear the trunk lid, but my thought's were it was necessary to lower it to be able to remove the spare tire...

As far as the "access" to the crank hole up front...I find it convenient when rotating the motor for valve adjustments and point gap...

Anyone have problems opening their trunk w/bumper guards in back on '38's, etc...? Seems that you's guy's would have even more clearance back there...

I've got the standard short bumper guards and there's no issue with opening the truck. The deck lid swings straight up rather than back so I can't see where there would be any clearance issues with a taller guard either.

Sorry, Tiny...The reference was to the "center" accessory bumper guard...But, I guess your right ...Doesn't appear it would be in the way of the "truck"...

Even if you have a non-correct slash guard there's plenty of room to raise the trunk (truck) lid. A center bumper guard on the rear would look out of place on a coupe. To much chrome in one area.

Some of them are big bucks

ebay 160981267517

My 1939 has the front and rear center guards. I have never had the need to use a hand crank after almost 50,000 miles and 40 years. I suppose you could loosen the bolt and swivel the guard out of the way if necessary.
The rear guard dosen't tilt very far but allows enough to open the trunk lid. The rear was an accessroy for 1939 only but no reason it could no be installed on a 1938.

I know this is an old topic, but here is a picture I found on another web site.

Clever. Aa hole was drilled in the guard for the crank to pass through.

Hung my new folding rear bumper guard and backup light. I didn't install braces yet. Next up parking light. I am searching forum for instructions to install parking lights. I think Tiny added pics, but can't find it yet.

looking good Mike!
i think you can get a copy of the fender light instructions from chevsofthe 40`s think they sell them. or they did

Gene sent me a scan of the instructions. The numbers were so small my poor eyes couldn't read them. What I did was put blue painter's tape on the fenders to give me something to mark on. I then used a 6" torpedo level & made sure the light base was level side to side and forward to aft. With it pointing straight forward relative to the car (not the fenders because the fenders taper slightly from back to front), I marked the location of the mounting studs & drilled the holes. I wired mine to come on with the headlight low beams, kind of like driving lights. I still use the small bulbs in the headlight reflector as my parking lights. Installation Instructions.

Tape layout:



Holes drilled & grommet installed for the wire to pass through:



Light installed (doesn't look level due to the angle of the photo:



Lights on low beam:

Thanks Perry, a little at time. Tiny thank you for the pics and installation directions. I am nervous to misdrill. Keep you posted.

If I were to do it again I would remover the studs and tape or stick it on the fender some how to see if it sits level. I see some that point slightly up or down and they look terrible.

The wrong angle is my biggest concern, it does look bad.

thats the worst look,i see more lights pointing up or down, than i see sitting level with the headlights.
remove the studs to get and an exact position.
chevnut has a good point

At least on mine removing the studs weren't necessary. They were both the same length. I rested both against the fender and used a torpedo level to get the housing level side to side and forward to aft, marked the location of the studs on the tape & drilled there. Came out perfect, even in line with the hole in the inner finder for the wire to pass through. You'll need to remove the top of the light & place the level on just the base of the light. My lights are OEM lights. I understand the repops have different hole spacing so they may be different.

the 1938 looking good mike..

Thanks, I'm taking my time. A friend said collect as many accessories as possible because they won't get cheaper so I have concentrated on collecting them.
Mike
38 Town Sedan

as the supply of original accessories gets lower,
it keeps the prices high